Reversed Ford spindles?

I'm sure this has been cussed and discussed in the past but here goes.
Are there any adverse issues that arrise from swapping the Ford spindles on an I beam axle to put the tierod out in front. Other than the obvious problem of vulnerability of the tie rod?
I have a clearance issue with some wishbones and frame rails. I have seen this done but not given much thought until now.
Panhead Guy

 

If your spindles have the integral steering arms, the Ackerman geometry will be ass backwards and you'll drag one of the front tires in a turn.

 

Yep...the Peter Beater plows the right tire in a tight turn. But, I had to do it for the same reason. I just learned to live with it.

 

See! I knew there was a reason for this post. I never gave the akerman a thought. Wonder if you can bend the arms enough to recover some?
Thinking out loud again... thats a dumb idea 'cause the backing plates are in the way.
Any other ideas?

 

A lot of people heat and bend the arms till the tie rod clears everything, you have to have the arms checked for cracks afterwards, magnafluxed. I just don't trust the heat and bend routine and decided to go with dropped steering arms that are bolt ons.

 

If you search for "ackerman" you'll find lots of posts.I think Tingler tried it both ways.

First choice is dropped steering arms.
Having the tie rod on front always looks like a huge afterthought.

 

The stock arms look forged to me, does anyone know 100% if this is the case?

If they are forged and for the time period they were made I would feel pretty confident that they were, you should have no problems if you heat them properly and bend them. You just don't want to heat them to the point they start throwing sparks (thats would be the carbon burning up) you want them a nice cherry red and just let them air cool, don't quench them (using water to cool them) as this would make them brittle.

 

thats why i never liked the look of total performance t front ends

riverrat

 

Stock arms are forged. Look at any part in question and look at the parting line where it was formed. A forging will always have about a quarter inch wide parting line. A casting will be very narrow. About a sixteeth or so.

 

I have bent the arms before. Cherry red and no more with a slightly carburizing flame. I'm going to figure a way to run the tie rod the way it should; behind. Got a pair of wishbones from '46 (?) that are offset and may provide the clearance.
Thanks to all for the help