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Flathead waterpump cant remove internal bolt

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by blacufo, Jun 25, 2012.

  1. blacufo
    Joined: Sep 13, 2006
    Posts: 401

    blacufo
    Member

    The water pump went out on my 40 ford flathead v8. I was able to get all the external facing bolts out but the one bolt that is in the side of where the radiator hose has a stripped head. It looks like it has some corrosion as well. Any flathead tricks to get this bolt out? One want to break the head off this thing. Any help appreciated
     
  2. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 11,618

    Atwater Mike
    Member

    Make a simple jig to drill the center of the bolt out. Even hard wood will work.

    Or, if you think you can drill dead-center, bore the center of the bolt with a 1/8" bit.

    Set a 'stop' on the drill, (length will be 1 3/8" total to get thru the head and length of the stripped bolt)

    Change bits up to 1/4", then use a left hand 5/16" bit, with some good penetrating oil.
    Blaster is great...Bolt should back out when bit gets less than halfway thru.
    If not, go to 11/32", left hand.
     
  3. aaggie
    Joined: Nov 21, 2009
    Posts: 2,530

    aaggie
    Member

    If you have room just clean enough of the rust off and hold a nut against the bolt head and weld it to the bolt. It should come off with a socket on the nut.
     
    Speedys Garage likes this.
  4. Have you tried a 6 point socket instead of the normal 12 point? I bet you use a stainless one to replace it when you finally get it out.

    Charlie Stephens
     
  5. 50flathead
    Joined: Mar 8, 2005
    Posts: 1,169

    50flathead
    Member
    from Iowa, USA

    You might try one of those sockets Sears sells for gripping stripped bold heads. Otherwise use a six point if you haven't yet.
     
  6. Mike51Merc
    Joined: Dec 5, 2008
    Posts: 3,855

    Mike51Merc
    Member

  7. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 2,074

    edwardlloyd
    Member
    from Germany

    Used this one today on a sheared off flywheel bolt. Works a treat. Weld a nut onto the sheared off bolt. The heat from the welding adds a little heat and it just turns out. If it works its the quickest way.
     
  8. AlbuqF-1
    Joined: Mar 2, 2006
    Posts: 909

    AlbuqF-1
    Member
    from NM

  9. 40FordGuy
    Joined: Mar 24, 2008
    Posts: 2,907

    40FordGuy
    Member

    Ditto all the ideas above.

    Happy Flatheadin' !!!!!

    4TTRUK
     
  10. blacufo
    Joined: Sep 13, 2006
    Posts: 401

    blacufo
    Member

    Got the bolt out. Ended up using a 13mm 12 point socket. Heated the bolt up a bit and it came right out. Did the same on the other side as well. Ill be replacing them with stainless bolts.
     
  11. roseville carl
    Joined: Dec 29, 2008
    Posts: 5,214

    roseville carl
    Member

    don't forget to antisieze the new bolts.............
     
    clem likes this.
  12. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,681

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    Then what will the next owner have for entertainment?
     
    Hotrodmyk likes this.
  13. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 2,074

    edwardlloyd
    Member
    from Germany

    13mm is a good trick. It's ever so slightly smaller than 1/2 inch and sometimes grips well on worn 1/2" bolts
    Ed
     
  14. RidgeRunner
    Joined: Feb 9, 2007
    Posts: 906

    RidgeRunner
    Member
    from Western MA

    Thanks for posting the follow up. It's always good to find out what finally got the job done, might help out some of he rest of us down the road someday.
     
  15. :confused::confused:

    13 mm is bigger, 1/2" is 12,7 mm
     
    clem likes this.
  16. 327-365hp
    Joined: Feb 5, 2006
    Posts: 5,442

    327-365hp
    Member
    from Mass

    Yeah, he meant 13mm is smaller than the 9/16 bolt head. :)
     
  17. Sixness
    Joined: Nov 10, 2008
    Posts: 137

    Sixness
    Member
    from Cen Tex

    Back in the day a 2 lb. hammer was good to beat all the stuff in the way off so you could get to it with a pipe wrench !!!!
     
  18. Jacksmith
    Joined: Sep 24, 2009
    Posts: 1,859

    Jacksmith
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Aridzona

    Ah-ha! I like it... I'm going to try this after heat tomorrow... further developments to follow!
     
  19. willys36
    Joined: May 6, 2006
    Posts: 3,214

    willys36
    Member

    Old but important thread. Whenever you have a rusted in bolt, nut, or stud that will break if you twist any more, the best way I have found to always get them out is heat. Concentrate the flame of an oxy/acetylene torch on the offending part. Rust is a good enough insulator that the part will turn cherry red while the surrounding metal will stay relatively cool. Get the part a good cherry red then quench it. It will easily unscrew.
     
  20. Jacksmith
    Joined: Sep 24, 2009
    Posts: 1,859

    Jacksmith
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Aridzona

    Yeah, so I got my torches out & the acetyline regulator took a dump... Grrrrr... I'll have to wait 'til Monday for that. But, I tapped a 13mm 12 point socket onto the offending bolt and carefully cranked on it... to my surprise & delight it came loose. Lucky. I tried the same thing on the other pump's bolt; no dice! So that's that @ this point. I'm optimistic that the heat will make the difference on the second one.
     
  21. Jacksmith
    Joined: Sep 24, 2009
    Posts: 1,859

    Jacksmith
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Aridzona

    YES!!! Always use anti-seize on stainless fasteners!!!
     
    clem likes this.

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