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muncie trans linkage help

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 46poncho, Jun 27, 2012.

  1. 46poncho
    Joined: May 24, 2009
    Posts: 248

    46poncho
    Member
    from Indiana

    I have a 65 muncie 4 speed out of a GTO. I picked up a hurst comp plus shifter and all linkage with it at a swap meet. the guy I bought it from said it was for a muncie, but when I tried to hook it up the linkages were all wrong. how do I know which is the right linkage, how do I identify them???
    thanks
    scott
     
  2. pitman
    Joined: May 14, 2006
    Posts: 5,148

    pitman

    [​IMG]
    The rods and linkage levers go in one location and orientation only.
    Note the outer long rod and the next one mounting from the rear of the lever on the box.
    Hopefully you have the correct model for the Muncie M20, 21?
     
  3. nwbhotrod
    Joined: Oct 13, 2009
    Posts: 1,243

    nwbhotrod
    Member
    from wash state

    M20 M21 M22 I beleve there all the same
     
  4. marxjunk
    Joined: Feb 4, 2010
    Posts: 81

    marxjunk
    Member
    from KCMO

    saginaw rods look right til ya stick them up there, and they are all wrong...
     
  5. MATACONCEPTS
    Joined: Aug 7, 2009
    Posts: 2,069

    MATACONCEPTS
    BANNED

    Aftermarket Hurst shifters have a bunch of universal parts & mounting brackets with multipal mounting holes. Some extra parts. And there are different tailshaft shifter mounting holes per make/model/year. Sometimes the Hurst shifter doesnt end up in the proper location in the trans tunnel on the body, but I think the comp plus has the proper offset to do so. The rods may need tweeking.
     
  6. Tudor
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 6,911

    Tudor
    Member
    from GA

    Do the rods have numbers on them?

    There are different mounting brackets for the Comp plus and different rods.

    There are instructions from Hurst that have the numbers of the tabs, the number of the brackets and the rods on their website. Check it out. Once you find the instructions for the mounting bracket you have, there will be a diagram with part numbers.
     
  7. MATACONCEPTS
    Joined: Aug 7, 2009
    Posts: 2,069

    MATACONCEPTS
    BANNED

    With HotRods I cut & weld & make them fit.
     
  8. 46poncho
    Joined: May 24, 2009
    Posts: 248

    46poncho
    Member
    from Indiana

    thanks for the info i will look them up
     
  9. Tudor
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 6,911

    Tudor
    Member
    from GA

    Yeah, at least make sure you've got close to the right stuff for your mounting bracket. Then if they need tweaking - tweak away.

    I ended up with the bracket that raises the shifter up and utilizes straight linkage rods - like the nascar boys. It works awesome.
     
  10. 46poncho
    Joined: May 24, 2009
    Posts: 248

    46poncho
    Member
    from Indiana

    the problem I have with mine are they are too long and do not have the bends in the right place. I can cut and weld to make the length right but was not sure if they could be bent. the ones I have are the heavy duty rods
     
  11. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,291

    F&J
    Member

    I'd heat them if they are good ones; good ones won't bend without heat.
     
  12. MATACONCEPTS
    Joined: Aug 7, 2009
    Posts: 2,069

    MATACONCEPTS
    BANNED

    One thing about those Hurst rods is the threads wear out with heavy daily use, but you could tack weld them. FYI
     
  13. Novadude55
    Joined: Nov 10, 2009
    Posts: 2,353

    Novadude55
    Member
    from CA

    i know muncies have the reverse lever in the tail shaft,
    saginaws are all on the side cover
     
  14. marxjunk
    Joined: Feb 4, 2010
    Posts: 81

    marxjunk
    Member
    from KCMO

    if they are too long the are for a saginaw 4 speed...

    a correct kit costs 150 bux, or you can chop them up and when youre done, a new kit cost 150...lol
     

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