I have a 235 that I ordered a complete felpro gasket set for. It came with the rubber and rope rear seal. What are people using and what one works better? It also came with the newer perimeter bolted valve cover gasket and I have the early center bolt cover. Are they the same gasket? I did order a valve cover gasket for a 216. I can't seem to get the balancer off the crank. I have a puller on it but don't want to crank on it too hard. Once I get it off how do I get it back on? I am used to bolted on balancers. Thank you
The damper will come off if you pull hard enough. It's installed with a 2x4 and a big hammer. The 2x4 is laid across the damper to protect it, and you whack on the 2x4 with the BFH to drive the damper on. The rubber seal is easier to install, but I think some blocks are not machined very well and the groove is not concentric with the bearings...so it might leak. I'd try it first. But the fun thing is that if you have to end up using the rope seal, it's not easy to install without removing the crank, which means taking the engine out again. I don't recall about the gaskets....oh yeah, I just refreshed my memory by visiting rockauto.com...they have the bolt holes as well as the grommets. So you can use it on either engine, and it may seal if you're lucky.
I figured that was the case with the balancer. I appreciate the insight. I will try the rubber seal first and see how it works out for me. I did order a valve cover gasket for the 216 so hopefully it looks better. I ordered my gaskets from carquest and they were the cheapest I could find anywhere so if anyone buys gaskets check carquest first.
cheaper than rockauto.com? both rear seals are equally good at leaking. good luck. use a propane torch on the center of the balancer. might help get it off, and it will definitely make it easier to put it back on. OR.... If you can, take the crankshaft in and get the snout drilled and tapped like a 350, then you can do it the right way. Also, tap the bottom two holes (3/8-16) for the timing cover (front main cap) and drill out the timing cover holes so you don't have to drop the oil pan to take the timing cover off.
I got the complete gasket set and the new valve cover gasket for $53. I guess I will have to look a bit closer to the timing cover to see what you are talking about. Does anyone have any input on milling heads or should I just look for the 848 head?
I have the exact same problem, so I'm very thankful for the. Good advice too! What is the deal with the 848 head? I have two 235's and they both have 848 heads, I just like to know what the deal is. Why are they better than other heads?
Look at the numbers, or look for the 4 screw holes...it's pretty common for guys to put studs in the later heads so they can run the early (better looking) valve cover.
Works alot easier for me. The thrust bearing on #3 will appretiate it. drilling and tapping the snout is the best way to do it.
Go to CHEVY TALK and look at what they say about the rear seal......They leaked from the factory. About 55 was when the blocks were machined enough for the rubber seal
the 848 head has a very very slight increase in compression. If you have one of the other ones, don't go out of your way to change it.
take a look at how one of those is put together. It's not an SBC... No, it doesn't hurt anything. you warm it up to around operating temps not red ****ing hot...
So if the 848 is not with the effort is milling the head a bit and having the valves sank the same amount any good for performance?
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