I just spent 3 hours searching and reading old post about the PCV question in a 327 chevy. my question wasn't answerd. I understand how this should work.. but it doesn't always work. I drilled/tapped my intake back by the oil pres. fitting and made a metel shield to keep the oil off of the PCV valve. DOES NOT WORK! it takes a quart of oil to 100 miles. I pluged it and run without a PCV valve. YES I GET OIL FILM ALL OVER so I'm trying to make something work with out having to pull the intake off. I want to pop out the plug from the old draft tube and hook up the PCV useing the mid 60' chevy PcV/road draft hose adapter. NOW THIS IS THE QUESTION!!!!!!! i'M 90% sure the canister under the intake is LONG gone. help me make a oil baffle that will fit in the hole in the rear of the 327 block that will slide in the inch 1/4 hole that is about inch 7/8" deep!! can i stuff the hole full of a household POT SCRUBBER?? do i put a short peice of tubbing in the hole with SMALL holes drilled in it then stuff it full of pot scrubber... the hole in the back of the 327 seems to puddle the oil in the bottom 1/2 inch with out a drain hole to return oil to the engine LOTS of sludge! or does the oil drain down the 1/4" threaded hole?? HELP
I have used 2 different types of scrubbers for an oil baffle. I used a copper pot scrubber from the grocery store in this cut off road draft tube. I was concerned about it migrating into the valley so I put a sheet metal screw into the side of the tube so that it would stay put inside the tube. In your case I would just pull the intake and get a used one that worked so well for years. I'm not sure but they may be repopping these.
Take a freeze plug and plug tho old hole in the block and move the pcv to the valve cover,this is how we have done it for years.The only time we leave it in the old position is for a restoration but I dont know what your purpose is.
Two options that I know of. What cylhead said. Or what tommy said. If you want the pvc in the draft tube hole, you need that baffle in the valley. You probably could reinvent the wheel but it be faster easier and cheaper to do what they said.
Try adapting a lawnmower muffler, the older kind that looked like a gl*** pack. I think they are still sold new. Ago
Since you have a 327 (not a 350) it sounds like the easiest option in your case is to start over and go back to the original canister type baffle. There's millions of them out there. It shouldn't be hard to find one. It should only take a couple of hours to pull your manifold and get it all done the right way and ****on it back up. That should solve your problem. There's several on evilbay right now or put a wanted ad in the the HAMB cl***ifieds. Somebody will hook you up. If you go to evilbay put this in the search field: (283, 327) (baffle, canister, draft, breather) [Edit] I just re-read your post. You mentioned oil pooling. Are you talking about in the lifter gallery? There shouldn't be any oil pooling there if your drain holes are open.
I have many old canisters. I also have cal custom valve covers. the pooling i asked about is in the hole in the back of the 327 where the draft tube was. the hole is deeper then the canister mounting hole, makeing it a trap for oil.....or does the oil drain back through the 1/4" tapped hole for the road tube?? (if it pools oil here my idea won't work)
Ahhh...I understand. I'm not sure about the oil pooling in the hole and whether it is supposed to drain through the tapped hole or not. I just went through a similar process on my 350. Not quite as easy as a 327 though. I drilled and tapped my manifold and ran my PCV to the carb base. I had to make a tin baffle for underneath the manifold. All that so I could run my old Corvette valve covers without putting holes in them! I don't seem to be ****ing oil so far but I haven't really put many miles on it so it's hard to tell for sure. Keep us posted on how this works out. Lots of folks seem to be looking for solutions for this.
Sorry to hi-jack, but I have a question; I have a '66 283 sbc, oil tube with vented cap, valve covers with vented caps, and a road draft tube. Tri-power rochesters, NO pcv. I haven't run the motor in the truck yet, so my question is; can I leave it as is? What's the down-side of having no pcv?
Cranck case vapor blown on the road & underside of truck. Tight engine won't be bad. Loose and lots of blowby will be pretty bad
This may not apply to your install, but maybe a idea. This is what I did on the valley pan of a Buick. In the attached picture the valley pan is upside down. The rectangular part on the right side is the baffle section out of a SBC valve cover. The round part is a section of tubing with a couple of vertical baffles welded along it's length and a baffle at the open end. These baffles do not go to the top or bottom of the horizontal tube. The bottom of the tube has drain holes to drain off any ac***ulated oil. The whole thing was stuffed with copper scouring pad material from the dollar store. The PCV valve plugs into the top of the pan. PCV sized for a engine of similar cubic inch (454 BBC). A oil fill tube was installed in the front of the valley pan and a pair of Offenhauser breathers installed in the valve covers. Not tested but the baffles and copper wool should stop oil from reaching the PCV valve. Canuck
The plus side is you wont gunk up your intake runners and valves. Is the sludge problem really a problem with temps in the 180+ range and detergent oil?
I just did one like this the other day .... not ****ing up any oil. I tiged a 1/4" fitting in the soft plug to hook the hose to.
You may not want this on your engine, but a lot of supercharged engines run an in line catch can, which you have room for behind the p***enger valve cover. I use an in line water separater for air compressors and splice it in the pcv line. There is an inlet side that diverts the water or oil to the reservoir and clean air into the intake. It also has a bleeder on the bottom to empty it.
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