Thanks guys. @ Del Swanson; I slush cast the wheels in BJB TC808 and they were made for static display only. It's also a long way from here (Australia) to Racine. I hadn't thought about selling them because there are anomalies in the master I had to work with. What would you use them for? If they are suitable, I could see about feasibility. Nice artworks on your site btw.
dpride wrote: " I have been building models for years and what do I have to show for it?...........a room full of models" Correction : You have a room full of Art, that just happens to be models. Gary
Thank you!, I would use them for inspiration and for reference. That is my favorite rim design and I love pie crust slicks. They would just look really cool in my studio! Thanks for looking into it. delswanson@wi.rr.com Del
Thanks Gary. I actually scratch build each tire from styrene sheet. Cut out the correct dia.; glue in spacers to get the right tread width and wrap it with .040 styrene. Then cut the four side walls pieces for each side that get smaller with each piece and laminate them on to the tire to create the bulge and bondo it smooth. The tread is poster board laid out flat, wrapped around the tire and cut out the grooves with an Exacto knife and file. Paint her black and you're race ready. It's easier for pavement tires.
^^^ Man, that's a LOT of work to make even one tire. I think you should consider having them cast or learn to do it yourself. What do some of the guys over on the Large Scale site use? Off, thread, they are starting to run offset winged Supers and 410 winged sprints on pavement again! http://msrxtreme.com/ (but I'm sure you knew that already). Gary
@ Del Swanson, here is a picture of the master as I got it back. I was going to cnc it but that was another $250 so I went with the print. The high res printer used had a small build size so it was joined in the middle and left a little scar. I can provide you with a wheel (as in previous photo), and the sides of the slick as a slush cast (about 2mm thick) in white urethane. You should check on freight costs. I cannot afford to assemble wheels and tires but I can 'pour' some bits if you glue and paint. PM if you want to get serious.
Tires have been my biggest challenge since I started this model gig a year and a half ago. I first used RC tires but they're pricey and limited to tread and size. I had a company do a 3D rapid prototype from my drawings but they ended up costing over a $100 each. Cool tires but way to expensive. With sprints, as you know, you need at least 3 different sizes for one car. It is a lot of work but I get them exactly how I think they should be and cost less than $10. I can do all 4 tires in 24 hrs worth of work. The rims are 1 1/2" PVC pipe couplers as they measure 1 7/8" I.D. which is scale 15". Put a bead lock on them and they are close enough.
Just came to conclusion that I'm never gonna get around to doin this one right, so I just put it up HERE if any of you cats are interested. (Gotta clear some space up and hopefully turn some stuff into means to pay these damn bills!)
Im really interested in the idea of making my own model kits & having them 3D printed. Anyone have any info on this golden sahara?
I've been messing around with photogrammetry, where you can take pictures and make 3d models from them. The idea being, photograph some parts from a 1/25th scale model, or diecast, make a 3d model, enlarge it, and print it out in 1/8th scale. Not going too great at the moment. Reflections, and flat smooth surfaces are hard to capture without them coming out lumpy or simply distorted. The technology is interesting though. Here's some more info: 123D Catch from Autodesk.
^^ Im aware of that method, yea the models generated are bumpy cos the topologies not great really, it uses triangles. I would imagine you would just use the information to model over the top of. got any pics of what you been doing with it so far?
More^^^ at last year's PRI show in Orlando there was a firm showing rapid prototyping gear that produced finished pieces that looked like they were injection molded styrene. Super smooth... but probably not cheap. Sooner or later I suspect things will get more refined for less $$$, eh? Sorry to say all I can remember is that they were from the St. Petersbug area of Florida. Gary
^^There a growing number of 3D companies around now that can print decent sized stuff but being new, its fairly pricey. Ive seen some that look smooth http://s3images.coroflot.com/user_f...original_391499_6lpo5aHyHA7y2vCyQnhMp_4aa.jpg some that have lines http://www.makerbot.com/blog/2010/11/01/3d-print-your-own-car-with-a-makerbot/ which would be useless for printing a kit or rather printing a prototype buck to manufacture kits from. I aint read up enough on it but it sure is an exciting new technology that I hope to use one day.
A buddy of mine was cleaning out his brother-inlaws basement after he had passed away, My buddy found this Big Duece wrapped in a dry cleaning bag on a shelf. It was complete but needed a few pieces glued back together. My Buddys wife said her Dad had built it in the early 60's and it was on display on their piano in the living room. Her brother kept it after their father passed. My buddy knew I liked old fords and gave it to me. It was molded in 63 and has working tail and headlights. I've kept it for about ten years now. I built a Big Duece when I was 10 or 11 it was nothing like this one.
Internet stores mostly. Hobby Lobby sometimes has them. Some go in and out of production, so specific kits are mostly seen on ebay. Lots of parts n stuff on ebay, too. Gary See http://www.largescalemodeler.com/
That's my thought too. If I can get the shapes, then i'll correct them afterwards. I'm new to all of it, still trying to learn 3D while messing with this stuff. I don't have anything saved at the moment. Catch123D seems to be the best for capturing stuff though. Right now, i'm trying to find ways to "trick" the software into capturing shapes better. I have a AMT 1/25th scale Mercury body that i've been practicing with. I've found that if I draw parallel lines on it about 1cm apart, the software understands the shapes dramatically better. Reflections absolutely ruin things, even on dull unpainted plastic. I'm going to try some 3M thin cloth bandage tape over the body, and draw the features (trim and openings) and parallel lines on it. No reflection because it's cloth... hopefully it will resolve some problems. I bought some Glad "Press 'N Seal" wrap to try on a diecast. It's a slightly sticky version of saran wrap, but it's satin, kinda opaque, slightly stretchable, and has a very fine texture. My thought is I can put it on a shiny nice diecast to kill the reflections, and draw lines on it to get the program to detect the shapes better. I made a scan of a 1/25th scale engine block with heads too. I found that washing the part with some very thin black water based paint (so it can be washed off) helped quite a lot. The program needs to see shadows some, to understand shapes. Otherwise, it's just a blob. It seems to have a hard time with very small details, so I need to take much closer pics. Might try painting the different parts with different colors too. Block red, heads blue, front cover green. I haven't worked on it in a while, talking about it makes me want to pick it up again!
I've been messing with this online 3d modeling program for the past couple of days, it's really easy to use: TinkerCad. You'll need Google Chome or Firefox to use it though. It models with shapes, and you modify pre-made ones, instead of creating them. It's easier for someone like me to get my head around, it's more of how i'm used to building models. It's geared especially for 3d printing being the primary goal.
That's a beautiful build.. I have that very same kit that hasn't been started on yet... I'll try and get a pic of the box art later.. Heading out for breakfast..
That does seem like a really simple easy way to get into it, I struggled for a long time before I got anywhere, still get stuck on things for months at a time, Its certainly not something that can be done in 5 minutes. Maybe sometimes in the future I could collaborate with a hamber, I could provide the model, they could get it printed & send me a copy. I imagine doing wheels first, little bits. Like i have these lying around but theyre far from done, lots wrong & would totally need redoing for production.
I ordered some 3D 1/8 th stuff Pretty amazing .... the trans - rear - brakes I dont recall if I posted this here before
296 pretty cool.When I have some "extra cash" I'm going to try one of these 1/8 models.They look like a lot of fun.
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