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350 chevy rear seal

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by pincher, Jul 7, 2012.

  1. pincher
    Joined: Sep 12, 2007
    Posts: 378

    pincher
    Member
    from Saginaw

    I have a 350 s/b chevy motor, the rear seal is leaking. Is it possible to change the seal without tearing the engine completely apart? I had the engine in my A it ran fine just leaked. I am in the process of building a 27 T coupe and plan on installing this motor in the T. I built a new motor for the A. I am just trying to save some money. Machine work is expensive. What is the best way.............PINCHER Thanks
     
  2. rusty A
    Joined: Apr 3, 2007
    Posts: 125

    rusty A
    Member

    You need to know what year the block is. I think its like up to 87 had a 2 peice seal which is an easy fix. But if its a 1 peice then its pretty much a tear down. Hope this helps.
     
  3. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 58,104

    squirrel
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    thru 86 was two piece, 87 up was one piece, although a few engines switched earlier. Crate (Hecho en Mexico) engines used the two piece a lot longer.

    You can change both in the car, usually. Two piece you need to pull the pan. To do the one piece you need to pull the trans or the engine, pry out the seal, and put in a new one with a special tool. you can do it without the tool if you pull the pan and seal adapter too.

    t
     
  4. HamD
    Joined: Mar 3, 2011
    Posts: 298

    HamD
    Member

    Up to 1985 SBC V8 was two-piece. Some GM crates are still built with this.
    1986-up SBC is one-piece.
    One-piece is easy to tap in carefully with the trans. out of the way IME.

    I'll take a less-leaking 86-up rear main seal, factory roller cam 87-up, longer wearing cylinder walls, drilled for either starter pattern late model block over an old one every time.
     
  5. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 35,168

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The easy way to tell is that if the crank has a flange on it it's a two piece and if the back end is round with no flange it's a one piece. It's almost impossible to confuse the two as the one piece seal has to slip over the end of the crank.

    To change the two piece seal you obviously have to remove the pan and then take the rear main cap off and loosen the other main caps to let the crank drop a little so you can get the top half of the seal out. Make sure that you put the new one back in with the lips facing in.

    Torque all of the main bolts and put the pan back on with a new gasket. Felpro makes a one piece gasket that seems to work pretty well.
    While I had the pan off and the main bolts loose I'd take a look at a couple of the bearings and if they looked suspect i'd change them out as the aren't all that expensive. Same for the rod bearings.
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2012
  6. 2OLD2FAST
    Joined: Feb 3, 2010
    Posts: 5,813

    2OLD2FAST
    Member
    from illinois

    You do not need to loosen the rear mains to replace a 2-piece seal, do some searching , w/a simple tool , you just roll out the old & in , the new!!
    dave
     
  7. pincher
    Joined: Sep 12, 2007
    Posts: 378

    pincher
    Member
    from Saginaw

    Thank's to all who responded to this. The motor is out pan is off. it is a 2 piece seal. I think the engine is 80/ 84 Dip stick is on passenger side of car. I am going to give it a whirl. Thanks again..........PINCHER
     

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