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What's the best Ford Flathead to build on

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Waddayacare, Jun 30, 2012.

  1. 40FordGuy
    Joined: Mar 24, 2008
    Posts: 2,907

    40FordGuy
    Member

    One place to look for block cracking is the center main bearing web...That's about the only one that can not be repaired. A really good machine shop can pin the others.

    The early heads on the 8BA work great, and for more of "the look", you can use the 59A cam and front cover, to install a crab style dissy. Cool thing about the Henry Flatmotor is how interchangeable a lot of pieces are.

    Happy Roddin' 4TTRUK
     
  2. 40FordGuy
    Joined: Mar 24, 2008
    Posts: 2,907

    40FordGuy
    Member

    Ps; Frank Oddo's book is great. Another good item is by Ron Ceridono (sp?)


    4TTRUK
     
  3. When I build something from nothing I have always started with an engine. I've built many bikes this way. I know what I want an engine to do and what I want it to look like. After that I let the engine tell me what it wants to be in. For example, I started with a 1942 Harley 45" WLA that was about 65% complete. When I was done with it, it was a numbers matching 1941 WL utilizing 85% O.E.M. parts.

    So at this point I don't have a particular car in mind but once the engine is done I will probably start with a bare frame. Don't worry fellow H.A.M.B.'ers this build won't be wasted on a ****in' RAT**** Rat Rod! It's really all going to depend on the engine and how it turns out. Could be put in a custom, a coupe or an open roadster. I do know that I like the '56 Ford pickups!

    As far as the power goes, well I know it's not going to be 500 horse. The power will more than likely be nothing more than someone would have had using the "over the counter" parts of the day. But my personal experience has always got me additional power from "attention to detail" and great machine work, so the things you don't see should pay some dividends.
     
  4. Digger_Dave
    Joined: Apr 10, 2001
    Posts: 2,516

    Digger_Dave
    Member Emeritus

    Just to clear up a bit of confusion.
    In the U.S. Ford produced the flat head until 1953.
    In Canada Ford continued production until 1954.
    (my dad actually bought an early 1955 Ford with a flat head engine from the factory)
    Ford was a great believer in not wasting anything. So stories has it that surplus flat head engines were available in Australia and Brazil into the 1960's.

    Then, the French flat head (it has some minor differences at the rear bell housing)
    was manufactured until some time in the 1990's.
    The French engine had a crankshaft, (some are 4" stroke) and connecting rods,
    (I have a set in my C69A - Canadian equivalent of the 59A )
    which will interchange with earlier years of U.S. and Canadian flat heads.
     
  5. The 90's?!?!

    Damn!

    That '55 must have been an interesting piece.

    Thanks for the valuable info Dave!

    I'm not the far from the border and have friends on the "other" side. Ha Ha! Ay!
     
  6. Digger_Dave
    Joined: Apr 10, 2001
    Posts: 2,516

    Digger_Dave
    Member Emeritus

    here is some information on the French flat heads ...

    http://www.btc-bci.com/~billben/french.htm

    http://www.sfflatheads.com/about-us-truth-about-us-and-the-stuff/

    It actually was a left over 1954 engine in a 1955 ch***is. The factory here in Canada offered them as an option. (they were trying to get rid of remaining engine stock)

    My dad traveled a great deal and put over a million miles on the various flat head powered cars he owned. (even had a 12 cylinder Lincoln flat head)


    Good luck in your search!
     
  7. Okay, found an 8BA with low miles (yea I know that really don't mean ****) and the heads are removed for inspection. I haven't gone out to see it yet but the seller claims that there isn't even a ridge in the cylinders.

    The seller is asking $700.00. I know it's his asking price but that seems pretty high.

    What do you guys think about the 8BA? Yea or Nay?

    What about that price? What's fair?
     
  8. lowsquire
    Joined: Feb 21, 2002
    Posts: 2,567

    lowsquire
    Member
    from Austin, TX

    From my experience, the best block is a 39-41 99A merc block. for some reason, they dont crack the way later blocks do. most of them have a factory relief, and they handle a big overbore with no problems. They are plentiful in Australia , apparently not so much over there.
     
  9. mastergun1980
    Joined: Oct 18, 2010
    Posts: 1,094

    mastergun1980
    Member
    from Alva OK

    I have a 8ba that runs and I turned down 800.00 for it, mainly because I haven't finished my blown flathead and want a spare motor... If it could run with only a gasket set I would say it's not taht bad...
     
  10. NOBILLETA
    Joined: Jan 26, 2005
    Posts: 152

    NOBILLETA
    Member

    Waddyacare, I hope your complete 8ba works out, but if not I am in NY, (Albany area)
    and have a good 8ba block that has been tanked and maged, and is crack free which makes it a sure thing.
    I also have a very nice 4" merc crank that has been cleaned maged, turned 10 under, threaded plugs installed in oil gallies, and new timing gear and sleeve for one piece front seal installed,in other words it's ready to drop into an engine. I will probably sell for what I have invested, I also have enough misc parts to put together a nearly complete engine package. I have put together a number of these engines, over a number of years, so I can probably save you from some of the pitfalls. If your interested, or just want to chat, PM me.
     
  11. stainlesssteelrat
    Joined: Nov 23, 2010
    Posts: 583

    stainlesssteelrat
    Member
    from ms

    a tin side 'd be nice to build.
     
  12. ventilo
    Joined: Aug 25, 2009
    Posts: 251

    ventilo
    Member

    me 2
     
  13. RC Kid
    Joined: Jul 5, 2012
    Posts: 97

    RC Kid
    Member
    from Alabama

    This has been an interesting read as I have been dreaming of owning a Flathead Ford myself. I am going over to look at a 41 tudor this afternoon. The car is junk but it has a complete drive train.

    Thanks
     
  14. wallyringo
    Joined: May 19, 2010
    Posts: 710

    wallyringo
    Member

    hey Waddayacare any updates this was a great thread?<SCRIPT type=text/javascript> vbmenu_register("postmenu_7918818", true); </SCRIPT>
     
  15. Nothing yet Wally thanks for askin'!

    I'm still gathering knowledge and scoping out parts.

    So far, between this thread and a couple of H.A.M.B.'ers my brain is uploading some great intel. :D
     
  16. Choppedcoupe
    Joined: Oct 17, 2016
    Posts: 258

    Choppedcoupe
    Member

    I would buy a stock, running motor. Put it in your car and drive it while you build up a spare “dream” motor, then swap ‘em.

    Honestly, what kind of hp can be gotten out of a streetable flathead?
     
  17. tubman
    Joined: May 16, 2007
    Posts: 8,214

    tubman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Probably about the same as in 2012. Not much changes in 5 years. To answer your question, probably 150-180 with a normally aspirated engine and a moderate expenditure. If your pockets are real deep, you might get 200. There are several examples of guys getting over 300 HP out of blown flatheads; big bucks though.
     
  18. Bearing Burner
    Joined: Mar 2, 2009
    Posts: 1,208

    Bearing Burner
    Member
    from W. MA

    The best to rebuild is one with NO cracks. Youll look t 4-6 before youll find one.
     
  19. deucendude
    Joined: Oct 31, 2008
    Posts: 702

    deucendude
    Member
    from norcal

    I have been talking to a lot of old timers about flathead blocks recently concerning my rebuild. It seems that the newer the block the better is the general feeling. So I would guess that a French block would be the best. Be aware the are all relieved. Also there is no rust in a new block.
     
  20. Materguru
    Joined: May 22, 2017
    Posts: 99

    Materguru

    Dudes, what happend to the techno site or FLATHEAD FORUM and the techno site. Anyone, Bueller, Bueller??
     

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