Pulling my 263 straight eight: A few questions.

I have my 263 down to just the block with the head and distributor (water pump, fuel pump, coil, etc. all taken out/off). I was wondering, what are the best places to connect to the engine for pulling? Should I pull the head off and use the head bolts?

Also, where should I unbolt the engine from the transmission?
There seems to be four or so bolts that hold the engine to the bell-housing. There are also bolts that hold the two halves of the bell-housing together (I think), should I unbolt from here? I've never pulled a straight 8 before so I though I'd learn as much as I could so I didnt make a mistake that may make it harder to get the engine back in.

I thought I saw a few pics of somebodies straight 8 hanging from a hoist, but I'll be dammed if I can find 'em. I think this is his car in this video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5jdfkK_D1Q&feature=related

If anybody could give some pointers or link me the pics I'd really appreciate it.
thanks, Zilla

 

bump

 

it is often best to R&R the engine and trans in one piece

 

Is it too much of a pain in the ass trying to line it back it up with the Dynaflow while on the hoist ?

 

remove the rocker cover and put a couple pieces of chain around the shaft where you need to lift it......climb under the car with a bright light source and a few rags....remove every bolt holding the torque converter and trans, linkage, speedo cable, any wiring too.

 

Lifting an engine by a rocker arm shaft would not be my choice. First, that straight 8 is a heavy engine. With the cylinder head and a Dynaflow mounted, you are probably looking at 900 lbs. Rocker arm shafts are not meant to be used for lifting 900 lbs.

My suggestion, remove cylinder head and use the head bolt holes to screw in a couple of eye bolts. Leave the Dynaflow (or whatever transmission) attached, then make sure the sling to hoist pickup point will allow a sufficient angle to get transmission past the firewall, but not too steep, so the transmission will clear the radiator support. Sling should bolt to front and rear of engine with one eyebolt at left side and other at right side. Another useful device is the hoist leveler that allows adjustment of the pull angle by turning a crank. Just be sure not to get a cheapie from Harbor Freight or one of those places. The adjustment screw mechanism is very unsure, and very unsafe. Get a good one from a good automotive tool company and you will be good to go.

One last thing, wear good gloves and if the assembly feels stuck, don't fight it, look for a stuborn cable or linkage that might have been forgotten. Stay clear and have a friend or two for help. Good luck!

 

The dynaflow torque converter has bolts around the outside perimeter at about two inch intervals about 20-30 bolts. The flywheel is also the converter cover and leaves the converter open to the elements when unbolted. The transmission unbolts from the engine around the outside perimeter of the bell housing, about six bolts.

If you decide to pull the transmission with the engine block: it has a torque tube that is connected to the transmission at the torque ball with about five bolts. Remove the rear cross member with the transmission, it's easier. The differential will move forward following the transmission out of the car and the rear tires will move up against the wheel housings causing the car to stop moving. Tie the differential back to the rear bumper with a light chain or cable hoist. Don't forget to disconnect the transmission shift linkage lever.

That engine is heavy! I mean really heavy. And with the transmission on it, wow! It's dangerously heavy, be careful.

I haven't had one out since I was about 14 but it made an impression.

Dave.