I have a '30 coupe with a 303 rocket and hydramatic. Not digging the hydramatic so I obtained a T-5 to convert the car over to a manual. I bought the car and wanted a flathead and manual, but didn't find one and figured I can convert it over time. So, I have been doing research on flatheads and been asking around, read a few of the suggested books, reading a lot of threads on here, and asked one of the fellow hamb members I know up in NY. (Any hambers in Alexandria, VA area please drop me a line). Long story longer, I came across a flathead that may shortcut my project as I was looking for an engine in good shape to rebuild. Of course starting to hesitate at the cost as I get in deep to the detail. I also talked to a local shop here that gave me the line on the coupe because they build flatheads and would utilize them for work and parts. The engine I came across has some miles on it since the rebuild and he doesn't know where the receipts are for the machine work. He doesn't remember having any cracks or sleeves required during machining. 1940 221ci, truck block w/forged crank (90hp orig) Edelbrock heads, Isky 400 jr. cam Edmunds intake w/ two Rochester 2bbl carbs Jan's pistons, .030 over he can't remember rods, but not stock adjustable valves w/hardened guides neoprene seals, not rope distributor converted to use external coil NOS plumbed into manifole, but never hooked up setup for GM one wire alternator Has everything, headers, fan, flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, starter, and a one off adapther for a T-10, all still on it. I had a good suggestion from a friend to pull the heads if the owner will let me to look to see if there were any visible cracks between the valves and cylinders. Is there a way to check compression on a motor sitting on a stand? What should be the acceptable number and deviation between cylinders? What are your suggestions for inspecting the engine before purchase? What would be a good $ value for this package? Are we talking $1500, $4500, or somewhere between? Thanks for your time.
There are a lot of experts here. I'm just a backyard mechanic, but I'd say a pressure test is a good way to test an engine sitting on a stand. Kits run about $350-$375 so usually the pros buy them (as opposed to us regular guys). By pressurizing the cooling passages you can detect leaks from cracks without running or dissassembling the engine. I'd also say that you won't get a good compression readings unless you at least mount the starter to the engine, spin it with all the spark plugs removed adn an open throttle. Flatheads can run on pretty low compression, but I'd want to see at least 85lbs with no more than a 10% deviation between them. Test compression dry, and then wet with a few squirts of oil. If compression increases with oil that tells you the rings aren't sealing, if it doesn't then the valves aren't sealing.
If you are buying this to rebuild, then I would figure out what the speed parts are worth and use this as a guide to buy the engine. In 1940 there were no differences between truck and car blocks. And Ford did not have stock forged cranks. The 221 is not the most popular engine to hop up.
Not the most desirable Flathead block but it will squeeze into your A. Firstly, no receipts? Don't Remember Cracks/Sleeves? Sure, I don't remember what I had for breakfast last week But I remember every detail of every engine I have ever built. Realistically, if he has no receipts then I would not consider it a rebuilt no matter how many aluminum shiny parts are bolted to it. If you can't hear it run, if you can't view receipts, if he can't tell you that there is or isn't 3 cracks/pins and 2 sleeves then you are taking your chances even at $1000 I gotta ask - If the engine was any good, why did he take it out? jmho. .
+1 on moefuzz's comments. Unless you know the guy well enough to trust him with a one week vacation with your wife, I'd take his story with a grain of salt. If, and in this case a big if, everything he says is true then it would cost you a minimum of 3 to 4 grand to duplicate. If not, upwards of 3 grand to fix.
I don't know what price the guy was thinking and I see where you said that you are passing on it. But, never the less, I would break the price down on what you know is there. "1940 221ci, truck block w/forged crank (90hp orig)" Good block but small bore, 3 1/8" verses 3 3/8" in the 239 ci. Crank, a dime a dozen. "Edelbrock heads, Isky 400 jr. cam" Heads have value if not eaten from corrosion. If that is the cam then it has value. "Edmunds intake w/ two Rochester 2bbl carbs" Good intake, I don't know what is with the carbs, My first choice are Strombergs, second Holley 94's. Rochesters go on Chevys. "Jan's pistons, .030 over" Prove it, not much value "he can't remember rods, but not stock" Why wouldn't they be stock, question the b.s. factor here. Allows me to question the pistons, cam, and other internal parts. "adjustable valves w/hardened guides" I am guess this is adjustable lifters, good if matched up with the cam. If not, need resurfacing. Hardened guide, not sure on this, probably hardened seats. From what I know, that is standard stuff on that era of flathead. "neoprene seals, not rope" I don't know how you get rid of the rope seal on the rear main unless it has an oil slinger. "distributor converted to use external coil" I would use the crab style distributor. I am guess this has the bell style. "NOS plumbed into manifole, but never hooked up" No value, maybe negative point for stupidity. "setup for GM one wire alternator" O.K., I run generators so no value for me. "Has everything, headers, fan, flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, starter, and a one off adapther for a T-10, all still on it." So, total up the value for the parts and see what you get. Probably less than what the seller thinks his stuff is worth. My gut feeling from what i read, the seller is good a shoveling the b.s. Neal
"NOS plumbed into manifole, but never hooked up" No value, maybe negative point for stupidity. X2 on that! If it is a good runner why did it get pulled? If it can be run on a stand with coolant until it warms up and it does't smoke or puke coolant maybe $1000.00 If you have to rely on a compression test only I'd go $500.00 max. Check out the Fordbarn forum. Do a search on cracks. I don't think a pressure test on a complete engine will show all the cracks.
I would say that doing a leak down on the stand is easier and better than a compression test. Tells you everything a compression test would and you can listen for where the air is going.
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