I have a 1952 Plymouth Cranbrook which currently has the original rear end in it. The casting numbers on it are: 1141544 and the gearing (to the best of my knowledge) is a 3.9:1. I am looking at swapping out the whole brake assembly to something larger. In addition I am looking to eliminate the lug bolts and switch to staked studs instead. Has anyone done a similar job? ---Spyke
I've thought about doing something like that, I have an 8.8" Ford rearend here at the shop, but I actually prefer the ratios that the stocker has compared to the 8.8".
If all you want is lug studs in place of the original lug bolts, you most certainly don't need to change the rear end asembly for that. I have converted several of these Mopars to lug studs. You need to access a Dorman Products catalog and there you will find a plethora of studs to choose from. I am at home at the moment, but will be at my shop later. I can/will supply you with the part number that I use for this. And, the drill bit size needed to get a good interference fit with the serrated shank and the hub. No need to 'stake', that's what the serrations are for. Piece of cake ............ Ray
Ray, Thanks for that info, I don't necessarily want to swap the whole rear end just for the studs. If I were to swap it it'd be for a much better reason. What would you recommend for a decent upgrade for the brakes? I could just rebuild them, but I'd prefer to make them better.
You won't find an 'up-grade' brake package except for what is on the Exploder type 8.8 assemblies. If for no other reason the rear is a good candidate for removal simply due to hassle of the axle nut and the old brakes. Plenty of swaps like this over at www.p15-d24.com .
I'm not looking at replacing the whole assembly at all. All I am looking at doing are some minor changes and improvements to what is already there. Thanks for the link, I'll be reading and perusing that site thoroughly.
73RR is correct in that there really isn't a simple bolt on brake improvement....UNLESS, you found a Dodge, DeSoto or Chrysler rear end to either swap in or swap the brake backing plates/drums/hubs as they are larger in diameter and more powerful as a result. That said, unless you seriously inprove the front brakes at the same time, you will upset the braking 'balance' between front and rear and create more problems than you solve. While I think it is feasible, even likely, you could bolt on the larger Mopar rear brakes to your Plymouth alxe housing, not so easy at front. The big bolts that hold the front brakes on to the spindles have a same appearing, but different dimension bolt spacing that requires the matching spindle to accommodate it. Of course there are disc brake upgrade kits that will fit your car's stock spindles to solve that issue. Just trying to cover all the bases here. Ray
You can remove the rivets and separate the drums from the hubs, then fit the hubs with studs. This will render the set up like the more modern style as the drums will center themselves as the wheels are tightened. the old rear ends are plenty strong, the weakness lies in the universal joints, if more power is in your future. You might be able to swap backing plate and brake assemblies from a later rear if you want to update to bendix style self adjusting deals.
The front end will be completely updated as well. Most likely with Mustang II gear. plym_46: Not a bad idea. Let me look into that as well.
If you're going MII front then a modern rear axle would be in order, if you're keeping the old rear axle then add a disc kit & shock relocation to the front, they're really not a bad IFS on these.
I can't understand not wanting to just take the simple way out of a rearend swap if you're spending the big bucks and time to do the Mustang-II front end swap. Just get a different rear with a ratio close to what you have if that's what you like.
Okay.......here's what I used on several of these......Dorman Products Wheel stud, part #610-183. Has very appropriate length overall and the right length serrated shank. I/2"-20 thread (Ford lug nuts). I am, unfortunately, a bit uncertain as to the exact drill size I used to remove the thread from the stock hubs. I "think" it was 17/32". I recommend measuring the serrated section diameter and shoot for a .015"/.020" interference fit. I know that sounds like a lot, but it isn't considering the malleability of the serrations. However, I strongly suggest using a press for installation of the the studs and a proper support for the hub.....for instance a deep well socket or piece of small pipe. Hammering them in or trying to draw them in by tightening a nut is not a good idea. If one were just replacing a stud in a hole already fitted with serrations, that might work okay.....but not for a new installation, in my opinion of course I am not advocating this over changing the rear end as others are suggesting. Just saying this is a proven approach IF you decide to keep the stock rear axle. Ray
Yea you lost me. Ditch the pretty decent front end and keep the crappy rear. Make no Nevermind to me i guess.
The rear will be a bagged triangulated four-bar setup to be up to par with the front. I'm just weighing my options on whether or not to ditch the stock rear end or to switch it out.
on the rear of my '62 chrysler newport (very close to the same rearset-up) i separated the drum from the hub, replaced the old studs with modern Dorman ones, used 1995 4x4 jeep cherokee sport FRONT brake rotors, late (mid '80's, sometimes refered to as "metric" GM brake calipers, and weld-on caliper brackets from speedway motors (about 10 bucks each) had to shorten the brackets a little and widen the radius where it welds to the axle housing. have had absolutely no issues. on the front, i have the stock suspension with an AAJ disk brake kit. it stops like a modern car now...
My car is two linked in the rear and bagged and set up for a sbc. And I am actively looking for a four door frame to take it back to stock.
focus on front brakes.a few disc brake kits online for stock spindles.they use ford granada rotors and gm calipers.
your making this a little harder then needed. keep the stock front king pins and up date with a scarbird disk kit HAMB vender. you have other options I used a 74 volare rearend almost bolt in swap, new pads and you will pick up an inch on the side to side. Look at my albums and you can see what I did. Glendale knows theses cars real well as does plymouth 46. also great time to up date master. be safe
Hahaha, I sure hope I'm not making it harder. The two options I am entertaining for the front end are either the Fatman Kit: http://www.fatmanfab.com/stubs.php Or the Heidt's kit (not shown): http://www.heidts.com/cart/view_products.php?SubCat=13 The master'll be updated as well as all lines included. As for welding/metalfab, that wont be as issue as its at a fab shop currently. ---Spyke
OP should consider this - you will get a couple decades newer 3rd member and not have the expense and work of the tapered axle conversion. For what I have into new rear brakes and the conversion on my '62 Double D project - might as well converted to disc out back too.
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