I looking at purchasing a flathead that has a tag rivited on the front of the block that reads: Ford Authorized Boston A Reconditioned Cylinder ***Y. MOTOR NO.74138 The Back of the motor is 59 with no letters at all in front or following the 59 number. The heads are 22 stud. I was told it came from a cab over truck used at an airport with a water tank on the back. I am trying to determine if this is a good flathead to build for a traditional rod. I have been told that cabover trucks have beefier motors (is this true and is there a way to determine if this is infact one?) Does anyone know what the tag numbers on the front can identify? Thx!
That tag is not telling you anything except that it was rebuilt at some time. You're 2 studs short on your count... Pull the heads and inspect the deck for cracks. Expect cracks between water p***ages, which are ok, but p*** if there is any indication of cracks into the valve seats or bores. If they are not willing to pulling the heads it's only worth s**** price. Went through half a dozen bad blocks before.
Flathead bolt counts are 21 and 24, no 22. A 59 block is a good start for a rod if it isn't cracked all to hell. In a water truck there should have always been ample water to keep her cooled down! Cabover or not, trucks did sometimes have heavier castings, but a 59 won't be one. 99's were one of the heavies. Not to worry, the 59 is ample unless you want to go crazy with bore size. Pull the heads before investing any cash, unless its a hundred bucks or less. An authorized Ford rebuild will have been a good engine when it was installed, but who knows what happened since? An airport truck wouldn't get driven very far at a time, it is likely still good, but check it out good anyway.
Willy: I agree with the others about pulling the heads and looking for cracks. They are visible to the eye and with the heads off you can see the shape of the center water p***ages. If they are round should be 46 and up. If the p***ages are squareish it is 42 and earlier..normally. The one in my 32 turned out to be a 46 which is "factory relieved" Folk lore it was done to some truck engines to reduce heat. Lots more info for you when you need it, post your questions. Also with the heads off you can measure the bore to see if it is maxed out or has life left in it. Good luck
59 is by far the commonest flathead in postwar hotrods, an excellent starting place. Cracks are indeed the determining factor, and engine should be VERY cheap if uninspected. The tag is simply ID from a rebuilding company and tells you nothing of any use.
There are no cracks at all, the center ports are round and the bore measures (3.230") Not bad I guess! What is the stoke bore supposed to be?
Here are some pictures. Whats a fair price for this motor in this shape? It comes with the heads and truck oil pan (no intake). I have a Thickstun intake and a pair of chrome big 97's along with some other goodies for the motor when done.
3 3/8" (3.375) is considered to be a maximum "big bore"... Needs a whole different gasket kit, such as this one: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/1939-1948-Flathead-Graph***e-Big-Bore-Gasket-Set,8080.html
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