Good advice, fellas, thanks. I'm on the search now. For sure. 3 years ago (I think) it was really cool and overcast on the first weekend. Because it was moderate, I didn't use any sunscreen. I paid the price that year. Just because there isn't as much sun and it is cool... doesn't mean you won't get cooked out there! I've yet to see another day like that, since. I'd also suggest stakes to secure whatever shade you've got. We popped up our canopy only to have it blow over minutes later and completely distort the frame along with some tears in the fabric. It still provides shade but it looks like it's seen better days.
Surprised with the historic slant of this board that no one has spun a yarn about fabulous Zeiss binoculars that grandad liberated from a German U-boat captain. Back to reality... +2 on either 7 x 35. That is a pretty good magnification to hand hold, more magnification than that and the image just wiggles around because of the normal temours in your hands and arms. The 35 part is bright enough for daylight. The other thing is is that big binoculars are heavy. Binoculars you can't use because your arms are too tired aren't very much good... are they? Piper106.
id avoid a spotting scope, not as easy to use. as a rule of thumb, you want numbers that are evenly divisible, like 10x50 and such, dont know the reasoning behind this, but it was taught to me by an optics expert years ago. Cabellas sells some cheap, and they also have a cool sling type mount you can buy. Its like suspenders, and the binocs are easy to lift to use, and at the same time when you let go they just drop to your chest and arent in the way otherwise.
I took a really nice pair when I went. 10 x 40 I didn't use them as much as I thought I would but they were nice to have. Watched Poteet run over 300 and it was dang hard to keep up with him!
Spotting scope would be pretty awesome on a tripod, but I would want to think about squinting one eye all day(just a thought)! Last year I bought a pair of 50 dollar walmart Bushnell Binos for deer hunting(they ****ed) and I would only take them with me if I didn't have a better option. My buddies have 200+ dollar Nikon's and Bushnells and its amazing how much better they are! I don't think I would ever catch up to a car on the salt much less be able to tell what I'm looking at. You get what you pay for. Again If you can make it to a Cabellas, B*** Pro Shop, or Gander Mountain they can show you more than you will ever want to know and my brother even bought a warranty on his, dropped em out of a tree stand, took em back to Gander Mountain and they handed him a brand new pair, no questions asked! If you get a spotting scope (which will have a much better range) at least buy a cheapo set of Bino's so you can decide what you like better for the next trip. Even Harbor Freight has a set for 20 bucks... http://www.harborfreight.com/10-x-50-wide-angle-binoculars-94527.html This is what I had before I got the 50 dollar bushnells and I have zero complaints for 20 bucks! I'll be taking them back to the tree stand this year and leaving the bushnells on the shelf!
Get a good single optic and hook it up to a computer and watch it on a monitor. LOL!!! I'm sure it can be done and I'm sure it ain't cheap. I gotta go to Bonneville someday soon.
One of the best pair of gl***e for the money-----or for any amount of money is the Zen-Ray ED3 series. http://www.zen-ray.com/shop/binoculars/zened3-10x43.html I have sold them and used them for a few years now. They really do compare quite well to Leica, Ziess, and Swarovski for a third of the price. Do not over look these.
You can see the cars up close in the pits and at the starting line. As they go down the course, the closest spectators can get is at least 100 yards away (maybe more). As cars get down the course, it will be hard to keep their image in binoculars as they speed by. Add in the heat usually prevalent at that time of year and the white salt, you are looking through waves of heat generated air. Check out youtube videos taken with high end cameras from the side of the course. Usually the resolution is just so-so and even some pro photographers have trouble keeping the car in the frame. You might find binoculars are not that much of a help, but due to the distance you will be from the moving cars, try 10X50 or something like that.