everything is fixable . ive seen much worse become a show car . its a good project & test of patience . go for it !
It would also save me a lot of head aches by just paying someone to do it for me. But the challenge is what we are after here. I know using a luv frame is far from traditional but it's what came with it and I am going to see if I can make it work. It's already got a really nice flowing lines with a good height of kick up in the rear making it ride low will be easy. I know I've probably struck a nerve with some traditionalist but why throw $2000+ for rails and crossmembers? I'll know for sure if the frame is usable when we get the sub ***embly. I it doesn't work the. We are only out a couple days labor but I'm sure I can find another use for the frame. Also I realize patch panels aren't plug in play. They have to be worked into the body. Takes time and some hammer and dolys. Some good tunes and good beer will make that process be enjoyable. Thanks for the interest!
Are you at least running a early front axle? It prob be less work to build a frame from box tubing plus those luv frames are prone to rusting from the inside out just a thought good luck with it
Didn't know the love was known for cancer from the inside but this frame does have some cancer spots that I'd have to fix before we could use it. Thanks for the info!
I am with Kevin on this one. I am pretty beat up these days and my neck is a little stiff but I would not raise that roof at all. Clean up the cutc and splice some metal in there. Window corners could be found or fabbed and the rest is just patch panels. It am not saying it is as simple as starting with a perfect restored coupe and chopping it the way you want to but it is far from being a parts car. It is going to be work but aren't they all before all is said and done.
I maybe have about 300$ in my frame. Front xmember 70$ from SoCal. Rear xmember 30$ on the hamb. Motor mounts were 40$. Wishbone mounts were 40$ from Speedway. The rest about 100$ in steel. Frame Shot. How car sits. Just some encouragement to ditch the luv frame. Or not. Either way good luck..
I figured a lot of you would disagree with our decision to use the LUV frame. The proportions are about right for what we plan on doing and its already a solid boxed frame. There are a couple small sections that need to be repaired but basically all we are using are the rails. Plans are to narrow it approx 2" - 3". The front end and back end will be cosmetically altered for appearance and also to accept a 4" drop straight axle and a 9" Ford rear housing and 4 link setup. Like Pottsie stated, if it doesn't work then we just lost time but gained experience. So its a win-win in my book. Sorry if it gets under the skin of the purists! Thanks for all the opinions and help guys!
Great looking car and frame dreddybear. I know by asking this question some may same I'm not ready to build it.... But how did you get the curves in the frame rails on the front? The rear would be easy, zing a frame is pretty straight forward. The only thing I could think of is that you cut the side rails out of plate steel and the boxed the top and bottom? Thanks!
No worries, people ask that all the time Straight rails: Add a bunch of blade width cuts from the top almost all the way through so the frame wants to "Accordion" up: Weld the **** out of it. Make sure you v-groove it and get good penetration Grind down and blend, if you do it after you installed the front xmember be sure to pie cut the front the opposite way to account for caster change. Make sure you plate the inside for strength, like the last photo
You can make it work. I used an s10 rear clip in the '35 International and fabbed a frame from the middle of the body forward with anonymous frame rails. Pinched the frame rails to hang the 34 Ford front axle on. Use what you've got, it been the hot rod way since the beginning. Just make it clean and safe.
That is a mess but I have seen worse believe it or not.. take your time... go get some small pieces of 16gauge carbon steel from a shop.. adding material and making hat window frame looks like a fun challenge to me... a god set of dollies and hammers it will look god before you know it... id kill to have that body in my garage........... hey it could be worse, it could be wood..... how the hell do you weld a gap in wood... lmao
great to hear you got some off cuts , all else fails on that rear window you can do a cut about an inch and a half in from the flange and do the pie cuts like the frame pics above and shape the frame of the window to the curve you want and then fill in with flatter sheet metal on the sides of the mail slot lots of tack and weld as well as hammer dolly but effective , best of luck wish it were closer id love to help . looks like fun
hey it could be worse, it could be wood..... how the hell do you weld a gap in wood... lmao[/QUOTE] epoxy and new wood are a wonderfull thing its like welding with out the expence lol ........... but hey im a wood guy learning the metal trade
It can be done.... This is what my coupe looked like when I started. You just have to want it bad enough. All the resources you need are right here. But for the love of God, please don't use that luv frame. Spend some time really thinking about the end goal with this car. Do it right the first time, because most of the time, "done for now" is done for good.
A little know how and some practice on some s**** metal before you start on the body would be a good idea. Its possible to make almost anything by hand with hand tools. the repair sections in the photo below were made by hand using only hand tools. I made the cowl for my '27 T body in one piece using mostly hand tools. The whole thing could be done by hand - I have machines so I used these for the swages (beads) The rest was hand formed. The section of swage (bead) in this photo was done by hand because I could not get it into my machines shows what can be done. All the shape in the panel was hand beaten. The (nearly) finished cowl David
That's really awesome mindover! Or biggest obstacle is going to be the back window as they decided to chop through the corners and not the straight part.
Pottsie: I would be glad to come over and give you a hand. Can't be too far away. I have wacked 34 sedan and two 3 windows. the A top should be not too hard to fix. PM me..Tim after the nationals might be best, let me know.
Model A sedan rear panels aren't that hard to find and the window dimensions are the same as a coupe. I've bought 5 or 6 of them in the last couple of years and have never paid more than $80 for one. The bottom edge is usually ragged but the rest of the panel including the rear window is usually solid and straight. I would even consider one that is non-ford to really confuse the purists.
Thanks! Its possible to form almost any sheet metal part. If you can buy sections that is obviously easier. Still worth knowing how to shape sheet metal though. Keep posting your progress. David Here is a link to my build in case you are interested. ('27 T with new hand made body) http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=596032
i had one almost that bad ...think someone chopped it with an axe.... lotta hours later and labor of love got it done... then knocked up a chick and had to sell it dam ......... that guy should have named it chicken poop......
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