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Frame building question.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by evintho, Apr 16, 2012.

  1. evintho
    Joined: May 28, 2007
    Posts: 2,580

    evintho
    Member

    How do you guys tie your frame to the subframe? I designed mine to where it's parallel to the subframe. I realized I'm gonna lose about 3-1/2" of **** room (it's a roadster so I can't lose headroom)! It's a tight squeeze as it is! Do most drop the frame below the subframe and if so, will .120 wall 1" square tubing **** welded to the lower part of the subframe rails be sufficient? At that point, I'd bolt/weld the top of the frame to the 1" tubing. Don't laugh too hard, I'm new at this!

    [​IMG]
     
  2. charlieb66
    Joined: Apr 18, 2011
    Posts: 549

    charlieb66
    Member

    My suggestion to those who are "new at this" is not to wander off the traditional path in your build. Copy what has been used by others and keep going. When you have more experience, then venture out. From your description and the pictures it is not evident what you are doing.
     
  3. Don's Hot Rods
    Joined: Oct 7, 2005
    Posts: 8,319

    Don's Hot Rods
    Member
    from florida

    Hard to tell from the picture but is that 3 inch tubing for the subframe ? If so, waaaaaaaay too heavy. The stock model a's were just stamped pieces and thin and an even 1 x 1 or 1 x 2 thin wall tubing (1/8 inch) is more than sufficient.

    Don
     
  4. badshifter
    Joined: Apr 28, 2006
    Posts: 3,635

    badshifter
    Member

    Never seen a frame like that. What section is that?
     
  5. Perrorojo
    Joined: Feb 25, 2011
    Posts: 357

    Perrorojo
    Member

    Which set of rails is attached to or will be attached to the rear suspension?
     
  6. RICH B
    Joined: Feb 7, 2007
    Posts: 6,018

    RICH B
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The subframe does not have to be anywhere near that size. I think you would have been better off shaping your frame frame rails closer to the contour of the body because having adequate space for brake, clutch, shifter and etc in between the rails is very important especially on a "T". The subframe can be fabricated of lighter tubing and sheet metal over the frame. With the rails out at the body edge you can also recess the floor pan between the frame rails in the seat area if needed.
     
  7. evintho
    Joined: May 28, 2007
    Posts: 2,580

    evintho
    Member

    OK, my bad! This is for the '27 T roadster in my avatar. Both the subframe and frame are 2"x3" rectangular tubing .120 wall. In the original pic in my post I'm standing over where the cowl should be, looking back towards the back of the tub and the quarters. The front of the cowl will be flush with the stubs of the subframe. I hope that clears it up.

    Here's a pic of the subframe with 2 frame rails inside before I modified them.

    [​IMG]

    Here's the basic wooden frame I made for a pattern. This sits inside the subframe.

    [​IMG]

    Here's a partial mockup with the wood frame inside the subframe

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I'll try to answer the questions........

    Don, I used my original 'T' subframe as a pattern. It's was 2"x3" thin wall.

    It's the frame inside the subframe basically underneath the cowl.

    The inside frame section will be attached to the suspension. The outside section (subframe) will be attached to the inside section.

    The subframe is the exact size of the original subframe and contoured to the body. Maybe I shouldn't have made 2 frames (sub and main frame). The way it stands now there won't be alot of room for the underfloor M/C and pedal ***embly and I can't recess the floor pan 'cause the main frame rails are right there. That's why I was asking about dropping the frame below the sub.
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2012
  8. Mr. Horsepower
    Joined: Jul 19, 2012
    Posts: 7

    Mr. Horsepower
    Member
    from Bronson Ks

    It looks like the work you have done is good quality but if your planing a rear z your sub frame is going to be in the way of rear suspension travel i would forget about the frame your planing on the inside of the sub frame and use what u have for a sub frame as the frame of the car just continue it forward to cary your front suspension and c notch or z over the rear if you need to for clearance of the rear suspension and dont forget fish plates and gusets
     
  9. carlos
    Joined: May 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,388

    carlos
    Member
    from ohio

    I would use 2 main rails straight front to back with kick up and front z ed and then add body mounts and rear tail pieace off the main frame with less heavier stuff
     
  10. oj
    Joined: Jul 27, 2008
    Posts: 6,590

    oj
    Member

    You might get the ford build book for the body you are working with, that will help you a great deal and shows how all the pieces go together. You are just getting started and you look like a meticulous kind of guy, the ford book will help you lay everything out so you'll have an overall plan instead of worrying about the next bolt. You might try 'langs' for the book, they have a lot of good tee stuff.
     
  11. pitman
    Joined: May 14, 2006
    Posts: 5,148

    pitman

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