I've just found some pictures I took as I was building it showing some of the solutions I came up with, especially regarding the '42-'48 crossmember install. I'll see if I can post them soon. Ed
This is where I started in February this year with a pair of ASC rails, front and rear Model-A crossmembers and a 1946 X-member. The rear axle, a post war one, has been fitted with a Model-A rear spring. I reversed the central box part of the X-member to locate the rear axle as we were going for open drive. It is probably possible to do this by just reversing the bottom center plate, but the front and rear legs of the X-member need shortening anyway. The '46 rear 'bones have been welded to a Model-A yoke which then provides the location for the central box section. After that the legs of the X-member are made to fit. Careful at this stage. Pedal and clutch compensating lever positioning are critical. More on this later. I used filet plates top and bottom to first bolt and later rivet the legs to the frame. This way there are no extra rivets visible on the side rails. Despite deleting the K-member on this A-V8 I wanted the side rails to display the characteristic K-member rivets and holes. This frame is heavy for two men lifting it. Like close on to twice as heavy as a stock '32. It's also torsionally very rigid. With the complete car on the lift I could pull one on the lifts arms away and the car didn't twist even though it was only supported on three points. And this is an unboxed frame.
The raised hump on the X-member means I needed a transmission tunnel. As the floor of the '30 roadster had already been plated over by a previous owner some of this needed cutting out. I didn't want the tunnel to be too obtrusive. There's little enough space in a Model-A at the best of times, so I made the tunnel as flat as possible. It's rounded off under the seat for a factory look. The S10 T5 fits in there nicely and the shifter positioning is perfect. I used a repro 1932 shifter rubber and hand made a surround for it which will later be chromed.
No because the customer doesn't want it. I suggested it to him, but he didn't want it. He knows the risks and didn't want to pay the extra. This car was built on a very tight budget and wasn't intended to be any more than a chassis replacement to start with. Also remember that most open drive conversions don't use a floating type radius rod solution with a yoke, but are often bolted to the frame or use tie rod ends resulting in constant twisting. An old hotrodder who shows his face around the shop on a regular basis reckoned it'd be fine. He'd never had a problem with open drives breaking radius rods. The Model-A yoke ties the two rods together and the rubber ball mounting means the entire assembly floats as one unit. No road stresses to twist those radius rods. Only the force of acceleration will cause them to twist and that not much as we only have a flathead V8 in it.
It's a shame a body had to go on that frame. It's a work of art. The poster that mentioned attention to detail was spot on. Really nice work.
Rear Shocks. I used a late model banjo rear axle with a Model-A rear spring (still with the original manufacturers lettering on it!) and Model-A rear shackles. Now I don't like welding brackets to axle housings especially if the axle hasn't been dismantled so I decided the most traditional look would be to use the beautiful shock mounts from Purehotrods. http://jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=616034 The shocks are from So-Cal and come in a tasty red color! I figured gold would look more period so resprayed them with some rattle can gold paint and clear coat. The top mounts are hand made out of square tube which just fits over the top of the shock - coincidence! and angled steel cut out of a Model-A center crossmember. These later got riveted to the frame.
Next one Mart is a '32 pickup, see here. http://jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=718028 BTW: if you see a gigantic F-150 and caravan on the roads in the UK this August with the number plate FO RD 32, give me a wave;-) Ed
Very nice, love the chassis work and the colour choice. I personally would worry about the lack of a torque arm even with a 100hp flatty though. Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
So the mustang guy does 10 cars a year, and you are closing in on 10 builds on here? I love your sence for details. Between this, the Roy debrow (sp?) and the 50 build (?) fordor I dont know what to Think. I'm a great fan of your work! And calling that a budget build is eighter wrong or just you saying you made him a deal, and stuck to it! Nothing of your work, seems to reflect any shortcuts are taken, it's well engineered, and with a high level of craftmanship! Even the thing (shocks) you rattlecan'ed you clearcoated! Thats perfection! Keep at it! It's so great, and I love the colour! Simple and traditional!
Ed I missed this build and happened upon it reading the Bttt thread on good service from Jeff at Leadmine Products. He doesn't seem to be on the Alliance List anymore however I hope he is still churning out quality product for those that require it. Great work as always on the roaster.
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