Im in need of some help !!

Im doing a sbc swap in my 1950 fleet line fast back i have the mounts and i just got my trans crossmember from Walton's Fabrication and i have a 04 chevy s10 with disc brakes i have it sitting on new saddles on the og leaf springs now my question is how do i find out what degree to set the rear end on and how ?


thank you for any help!

 

rear 3 degrees up. trans 3 degrees down.

 

Yep, 2-3 degrees is the norm.

 

ok so after i bolt up the crossmember with the trans i need to find out with the degree is on the trans and what ever that is do 2 or 3 degrees less ? sorry this is my first build and im doing it buy my self

 

i all ways here that there's lots of threads that have to do with sbc swaps in to thees cars but i could nvr find a good one or one if that can any one forward
me a link to one thanks

 

and dose any one know what leaf springs i could use on the car that would fit

 

Like this...

 

the original leafs should be fine unless you plan on putting a bunch of horsepower through them

 

thanks allot guys that helps a lot and the reason for the leaf spring question is because i have the rear end sitting on the saddles on the leaf springs but the wheels are about 3 inches or so forward..... the guy i got the car from removed 3 leafs from each side so some of the leafs slide a lil back and forward so what do you guys think should be the best way to solve this ?? thanks so much for your guys help sorry if my questions seem to be easy to solve and dumb to ask first car and im only 23 with no help lol thanks!

 

because of the torque tube the pin that locates the axle on the spring is not in the conventional spot when mounting a open drive rear.

you need to relocate the holes in the axle pads to center up the wheels in the wheelwell. no need to touch the spring.

 

ok so just relocate the pin holes by drilling them ? trying to slide the springs back scene they move a lil ? and after i haven them were i need them how do i keep it from moving gen ?

 

and dose any on here live in vegas dont know any hotroders out here

 

you don't need to mess with the springs. you redrill the holes in the spring pads in the proper spot. then put it all back together.


...not sure where you are at on this job, but the open drive rear end does not mount the same as the original. if all you have are the new saddles then you would need to find the proper size U-bolts and a plate for the bottom to hold the whole thing together. Waltons may have these parts?? not sure

 

here's mine. the car is not running so eventually I will cut off the excess thread on the U-bolts so they don't hang down below the rim. the bottom plate came from a 70's Datsun pickup. there is plenty of different ones at the junk yard that will work.

it might be hard to tell in the picture but the locating pin on the leaf springs can be seen inside the lowering block. that will give you an idea of how much you need to move the rear end.

 

i see what you mean now the saddles i have now only have one hole now ive seen some with 3 holes do u recommend me buying those?? now i hate to go back to the degree thing but the crossmember that i got that supposed to just bolt on im not sure on what degree that will leave the trans on but i guess ill find out wen i put it in right!

 

Call chassis engineering they will hook you up.

 

just drill a hole in the right spot with the saddle you have now.

 

I agree with anyone who says 3 degrees down on the engine, 3 degrees up on the rear end,,some threads just offer too many arguments and confusion..I used this formula on my truck and with a single 5' driveshaft it's a smooth transition of power to diff.

 

I agree with anyone who says 3 degrees down on the engine>> quote

I do too...over 100 engine swaps, checking them all, most end up at 2-3* when in the most preferable position. (car curb height should be set up before checking!)

Angle can be checked at the end of the tailshaft with a $9 Sears angle finder, by the way.
Same with differential angle: angle finder set on vertical plane on pinion flange.

 

with the intake manifold carb mounting base level the transmission tailshaft should be close to 3 degrees. what your after is a level carb.

 

so i need to do all the degrees while the car is in the air or on all 4 wheels on the floor??

 

IT is easier to due in the air.Just make sure you frame rails are level.

 

You'll have to set the pinion angle with full weight on the springs...car sitting on the floor.
When I set up my 50 delivery, I made a pair of lowering blocks that actually welded onto the axle housing and my spring-bolt holes [locates the axle on the springs] were drilled about 2.5 inches forward of the axle centerline to align the wheels in the wheelwells. Worked out great and yes, I also set my pinion angle at 3 degrees. I left the U-bolts loose [spring perches/lowering blocks not welded] and let the car down on it's wheels...used a floor jack to push the pinion up to 3 degrees and tack welded axle housing to spring perches/lowering blocks...then finished welded.