The Hurst 3 speed shifter bolts through the mounting bracket with two bolts. If it needs to go forward or back any it wouldn't take much to drill two new ones. It really is a flawless setup, and I'm beginning to have regrets about putting mine up for sale.
Cerebus is right measure twice and cut once. I bought a Hurst universal Indy for my F100. They had no listing for the 62. Had to modify the mounting bracket but still the whole thing took about an hour and a half to do.
I've had 4 of the universal Mr. Gasket 3 speed shifters over the last 30 years. I've never had one hang up between gears after the first one. Was shown by an old rodder how to fix that. The centre bolt that goes right thru the shifter is bolted to the universal bracket with a lockwasher and nut. The cure is to snug up the nut and drill a hole thru the nut and the bolt and put a cotter key in it. Shifter always stays tight after that.
Wow thanks for all the information. I have an old Hurst shifter that I got when my step dad p***ed. Now I will be bale to have something of his in my old car. Can I use heavey angle Iron to make the mounting bracket that goes on the ******? Gread thread!
Got a Hurst kit installed in my Modified so glad to hear they're the one of choice. Is there any value to upgrading the various joints by installing rose joints?
I've always heard them called heim joints, but potato, potatto. There isn't enough movement back and forth to really justify something as heavy duty as that. Plus, between the two arms you have limited space. I'd be more concerned about them interfering with one another and getting hung up. KISS... Keep It Simple Stupid.
Take note of the position of the trans levers in all the gears. It will save you some time later. Figure out how you're going to fill the hole in the dash. My wife installed a vintage shifter in her 51. It gave her a lot of trouble, but SHE could drive it... but when the alignment shop tried to move it, they broke the shifter off manhandling it... leaving her stranded 700 miles from home. Moral: vintage or not, get a good quality shifter.
Ragtop, it's their language, they gave it to us.... Blackjack, I tried that on a shifter I owned once, I went back with bent rod and plastic bushings and the thing was actually smoother to shift. Most shifters bind less if they have a minute bit of play in them.
Ah! Got it! Didn't see you were across the big pond. Yeah, I've always heard them called heim joints, just for future reference. They are wonderful little inventions that can be used in a million different applications. I just wouldn't bother putting them on a shifter linkage. I've often wondered about a small cable tensioner (turnbuckle) ***embly though so that you could fine-tune the linkage based on your driving style. You would have to install a jamb-nut on the rods to keep it from unspooling over time, but it might be a pretty cool adjustment tool.
Thing i liked about Hurst shifters is that in addition to being an uber cl*** act, the shifters were all the same, so you were able to swap from car to car, by purchasing just the install parts for the new application. 4TTRUK
Thanks for the tips, I bought the National Chevy one...http://www.nationalchevy***oc.com/7105_1, dunno y I didn't think of Hurst 1st, they were always the go to shifter back in my drag racing days!! I'll try to take pics but I'm usually under the car mutha f@$king everything while I work.
Great minds.... I've used a turnbuckle to adjust the belt tension of an alternator in an O/T car. If you use the type pictured, it comes with jamb nuts. Works great. They are very high quality marine stainless marine turnbuckles intend for rigging on yachts. They have a variety of "ends" and thread sizes so can suit just about anything. Not very trad but underneath the transmission tunnel - who's to know?
A very under-rated little piece of engineering, huh? LOL. I used heavy-duty turnbuckles on all kinds of stuff back when I built pro-modified rock-crawler Jeeps up in VA. THOSE are beautiful! Where could one purchase a turnbuckle such as the ones you've posted?
About 1962, a friend of mine had a '58 Impala with a 280 H.P. 348, and a close ratio 3 speed. He wanted a floor shift, and was looking at Hurst linkage. A week later, he brought me an Ansen floorshift trans case: It was an aluminum 3-speed ****** case, open top, and it used a Chev pickup tower and 'cane' shifter. The Ansen 'kit' also contained shift 'forks' (2nd/high was a slotted piece that matched the Chevy sleeve) I switched the gears, installed the ******, and the shifting was excellent. (not quite LaSalle, but it didn't shuck the ****on when grabbing second!) It spoiled me. I now use the Heavy Duty '68 Ford top loader 3 speeds with the Jeep shift tower. Puts the shifter in the middle, and the stick never finds its way up my pantleg. Gets it 'real'... "Hey, Sailor: That a Hurst shifter in your pants or are ya glad ta see me?"
I'm thinking the one on the right might be ideal for shifter linkage. It looks narrow enough that you might get the clearance you would need if you ran two side by side. Would make adjusting the linkage alignment and throw pretty simple!
Having the shift rods adjustable would also obviate the need for shift stops in the shifter itself, wouldn't it? Many non-Hurst shifters were made without any shift stops and wear faster.
Well, not really. Pretty much all shifter linkage I've ever seen is adjustable. The turnbuckle idea would just be an expansion of that, and make it EASIER to fine-tune your shifts without having to dis***emble anything (which can be a pain in the ***, especially if you have to do it a half dozen times to get it set just right). I don't see where using turnbuckle adjustments would be any different than using the standard adjustable linkage. Your transmission arm will tell you when it doesn't want to go any further, 'cuz it won't, and by proxy the shifter will only go so far too. I still like the idea of shift stops on the shifter though. While the transmission won't "over shift" once it's in gear, I figure the less you beat the **** out of the expensive parts the better. And, you're right. Other than HURST, every knockoff shifter I've ever installed (including my Mr. Gasket POS I'm currently running on my '53) has not had shift stops. HURST is a compe***ion grade shifter, plain and simple. It is just a far superior shifter all around. Tight, smooth shifts, heavy duty parts that can take a beating, and things like shift stops, all taken into consideration. If my '53 wasn't a budget build just for tooling around the neighborhood, I wouldn't consider anything BUT a HURST.
Shift stops on the 'Comp Plus' Hurst linkages were perfunctory on cars that were speed-shifted. In the '60s, I rebuilt many Chevy (and Ford) transmissions that were 'overshifted' into second gear, damaging synchros, main drives, and input shafts. I drilled and tapped some Hurst brackets to install stop bolts, but recommended the upgrade to the heavier Hurst box with stops.
To find the proper spot to cut the floor - Put the trans on a dolly or creeper. Use a plumb bob to line up the front of the trans with the bell housing. Then use the plumb bob on the floor so it hangs at the shifter and mark the floor.
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