TRI-5 owners - who's got one? I have questions!

Ever since the 57 Wagon joined the family a week and a half ago I have been doing alot of research on current things I want to fix to get it ***led and roadworthy and things I plan in the future. I need help from you tri-5 guys.

With all of the dealers and manufactureres out there for parts I wanted to know who you had good experiences with.

I am going to get the drum/drum set up workig right now but I am looking to do a brake upgrade as one of the first major changes. Probably next spring or early summer. I have decided to go with disk/drum and a dual master and probably 2" drop spindles in front while I have things apart and an anti sway kit. I have noticed that prices have varied quite a bit from brand to brand. Would it be better to piece a kit together myself? Or go with Heidts or one of the other manufacturers that have everything ready to go?

One of the other mods would be to lower the back a bit but not a a hole lot and maybe get the kit to mount the springs inside the rails in case I wanted to run a wider tire for some reason one day. This is not going to be a "drag strip demon" but something with a little pep that I can take the whole family along for a cruse.

I like the idea of having a list of people that I can PM or email who have gone through the things I want to do on my wagon on their own tri-5. So please stand up and be counted! I would love your imput and expertiese!

Cody

 

Shafer's Cl***ic in Tampa, Florida manufactures a whole lot of stuff for Tri-5s that is sold through companies like Danchuck and Cl***ic Chevy International.
Their number is: 813-628-0092.

Of interest to you right away: they make a really nice front disc swap kit (the one CCI sells). Comes with drop spindles.
BUT, they also have a conversion kit to turn your drums into self-adjust style. You should get this for the rear anyway when you swap in the front discs.

They also manu. all the brake and fuel line kits a lot of companies sell. New brake and fuel lines is a very, very good idea. Shafer's also does the fuel tank sending unit, which is a nice thing to replace to avoid problems down the road.

-Brad

 

You can squeeze in a pretty good size tire with the right choice of wheels (offset and width), I don't recommend doing the rear spring change unless you really need to, such as for a drag car.

I have the basic old fashioned disk setup that uses the early Chevelle rotors, it moves the wheels out, which is usually not a good thing...the drop spindle kits use later brakes that don't have this problem. Beware that if you use drop spindles, you need to have full height front springs, if the springs have been cut down you'll need new ones. Sorry I don't have any recommendations on suppliers...but you might or might not save money buying the parts separately, it's worth shopping around.

I agree with putting self adjusters on the rear brakes when you do the disk swap...I also put the self adjusters on the drum/drum original brakes on my 50s trucks, makes life easy, and it's cheap if you know where to scrounge parts.

Welcome to the wonderful world of wacky shoebox Chevys...there are billions of different ways to build these cars, so be sure to ask around (like you're doing), and also plan ahead, because usually one little change will lead to a whole bunch more that you didn't anticipate--and it saves money and time if you do each thing only once.

 

I've got a 56 2 door wagon myself, and hands down the best supplier of parts for them is C.A.R.S. Inc.

To lower the rear you can use simple lowering blocks like the mini-truckers use to keep it on the cheap. Eventually you could upgrade to lowering leafs or de-arching your stock leaf-springs.

Check out this website --- www.chevytalk.org, it's one of the most informative for tri-fives out there. They even have a spreadsheet on there if you search that will let you know what size wheels and tires you can fit if you enter in your rearend width, rim size and backspacing.

Hope this helps a little.

"the Goof"

ps: gay-bay always has the dropped spindles that you use the 78-88 A/G-body discs with for a good price

 

Congrats on your longroof. IMO Heidts has the best dropped spindles on the market. You can buy a brake kit, or piece it together. Either way, it will cost you come coin. I wouldn't put lowering blocks in the rear. Posies has a set of springs for tri-5's that are dropped 2". I have bought from a bunch of vendors, but Ralph Roberts is the best. Do a goodle search for ralphs website. Have fun and if you need any help feel free to PM me. I have had many 5-7's, and I am always willing to lend a hand.

 

i used dropped spindles for use with g body/f body rotors and calipers purchased from harmonds and they moved my front wheels out.

 

Thnaks for the advice so far guys!

When you said that it pushed your wheels out by how much are you refering to? Are you happy with the space that is left in the wheel well?

Also what else do dropped spindles effect on these cars? My suspention is stock and untouched at this point.

 

Would you care to elaborate on why you wouldn't use lowering blocks? GM has been using blocks between the leaf springs and mounting pad on a lot of their new fullsize trucks.

 

Leave it stock.

 

The front wheels will protrude approximately 7/8". I posted my alignment specs in a while back. If you would like them, just let me know!

 

Count me in as a Tri-5 owner. Also have a Tri-5 web site, stop by some time

 

I will go and check it out!

Buckeye- ya I would like to know your allignment specs. Or the link to the post you put them in.

 

I have a56 Nine p*** wagon. It is slammed in the nose pretty good. Dropped 2.5" spindles and dropped coil springs 1.5". Bought it all from ElPolacko. He'll hook ya up. Here's a link to mine.

http://www.okceliminators.com/member%20rides/chrisandkimbelairwagon56/ChrisKim56wagon.htm

 

i own a 57 2 door post, it looks like everybodys got ya covered on advise, if you have anymore questions let me know


matt

 

I have a '55 that's lowered about as much as possible w/o getting into serious ch***is mods and sacrificing streetability.

The front has 1 1/2 coils cut and 2" Heidts dropped spindles. This brings it down ~4" total. The rear has 2" lowering blocks. It could come down a little more, but I'd have to replace the 255/60-15 tires on 8" rims with narrower rolling stock.

I also have a front swaybar. It makes a world of difference on freeway on-ramps

As it is, I had to "dimple" one of the driveshaft tunnel braces because the driveshaft would rub it when hitting dips at freeway speeds when fully loaded. Additionally, I have to disconnect both rear springs from the hangers IOT change rear tires.

Heidts offers one of the best dropped spindle/front disc brake combos available for a reasonable price. For new stock repro parts, I go to Danchuk or Cl***ic Chevy International. Have had success with both, but always have to confirm that parts are IN STOCK when placing an order. For used parts, I barter with fellow members of my local Tri-5 Chevy club.

Hope this helps.

 

Ralph Roberts is excellent, fair, and fast...but his website is kinda hard to get through. Still recommended though : www.56chevy.com

Around Indianapolis is Case's Cl***ic Chevy parts, good guy but hard to get a response from him through e-mail...http://www.angelfire.com/sc/chevy/

Of course Danchuk and Ol' 55 are other good suppliers, but Ralph usually has the best price for the same stuff.

I haven't gotten to where you're at on your car yet, but I've got a 55 2 door post that needs a lot of metal. Hope you find what you need.

-Jeremy

 

55 sedan here. I agree with above posts. I have used both Danchuk and C.C.I .with pretty good results. If parts are not in stock at one place I suggest you call another supplier. It did take Danchuk 90 days to get me a rear gl*** for my '55.

Doc.

 

I agree with Jer, I have always had good dealing with Cases.

This past winter I moved my springs inboard and mini tubbed my 57, pics here:
http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=6&uid=3413303&

 

I think if you move the rear springs inboard you'd have to tub the wheel
wells along with it to run a fatter tire. You might gain a little but but not
enough to justify it without the wheel tubs.
Put me down for Case's chevy as well. Steve and Diane are super nice
people and he's got a boatload of good used parts too.
Great pics everybody.

Paul

 

KC,

Here they are.

Rotors and Bearings
68 – 72 Chevelle, LeMans, Olds 442, Skylark or GTO
70 – 72 Monte Carlo
Bearings- NAPA # 46409
Front Calipers and Pads
79 – 86 Monte Carlo, Grand Prix, El Camino, Cutl***, Malibu, Regal, Seville
Brake Hoses- NAPA 36845
Brake Hoses- NAPA # 36845

What I bought at Autozone
Rotors 5514 502 $59.99ea.
Calipers 208785 C161 $ 9.99ea. ($10.00 core charge)
Bearings (Set- 2) 693028 $ 5.99/set (2 sets required)
Bearings (Set- 6) 693101 $ 6.29/set (2 sets required)

Once you get them on, here are some alignment specs too.

Factory spec's are:
Camber 0º to +1º
Caster -1/2º to +1/2º
Toe in - 1/8" to 3/16"
You want the caster on the high side. If you have power steering you can run more, though most stock suspensions run out of adjustment quickly.
Radial tires call for a little less toe in than original, say 1/16" to 1/8".

 

hey kc i am a dealer for heid'ts and most of the tri 5 companies out there if you need anything let me know. what i did on my 55 handyman wagon 210 2dr. is put 2dr sedan rear springs on which is a 4 leaf system instead of a 5 leaf this brings the car down about 3" with out doing lowering blocks "easy" . the front i have a heidt's 2" drop spindle and their 1" drop spring. their kit doesn't move the wheels at all. and if you want a narrowed control arms they have those available too.

 

Are your spindles any cheaper from you than Heidt's? I'm not being a smart*** or anything, but I am very interested.

 

Try Speedway,they have the best prices I've seen for what you need.

 

Thanks guys! I appreciate all of the advice and information. Now I just got to figure out who to go with!

Do you guys ge alot of tire rub with the dropped spindles when you turn?

 

I'm putting together a 57 sport coupe and I'd like to second the comments about the Heidt's dropped spindles being the best. And the good words about Chevytalks modified 55-57 forum. Run a search there and you'll find everything has been addressed. If not, you'll find a lot of kind folks ready to help. Kinda like here.

Concerning tire size. 225 seems to be a good fit for the front, but if you go with discs, they won't clear the stock 14" rims. You need to go to 15's or use mid 70's GM 14" rims which are made to clear the calipers. If you do that, you still can't use your stock hubcaps until you weld some nubs on the inside of the rim for them to snap into. The biggest rear tire that will fit easily is a 255, but you should still roll your fenderwell lip out'the way. Some have used the "wheel and tire calculator" at chevytalk to shoehorn 275 tires back there, but you need to yank the shocks and drop the axel if you want to remove the wheel ***embly. Moving the springs will get you a smidge more room, but really not worth it unless you're willing to tub it at least a couple of inches.

As far a suppliers goes...Cl***ic Chevy International has gone way downhill, even years before the recent sale of the company. You have to pay a membership fee for the priveledge to buy parts that are still not compe***ively priced, they manage to delay, goof up and damage every order, and their backorder situation has always been awful. That said, their "tech book", a compilation of articles from their monthly mag, organized with index and tabs, is one of the best resources I've found short of the original service manuals.

By far the best supplier I've dealt with is East Coast Chevy (Ol'55). Very knowlegeable tech advice, always have stock on everything, super prices (they have a discount structure based on the dollar amount of your order), and they only carry the best. For example, T&N rubber is widely accepted as the best manufacturer of weatherstrip and gl*** seals, so that's what they carry. If there are cheaper versions of a part available (taillight bezels and patch panels are good examples) they list those in the catalog right next to the better made part so you can decide. The only downside with them is that they're not set up to do online ordering. You'll want to order over the phone anyway because they'll probably answer a few questions for you.

 

Yes my prices are cheaper then if you buy them from heidt's $275 and $265 depends on your brake application. sorry it took so long to answer lost the thread. if you are intersted give me a call toll free 866-425-4546
Brant

p.s. don't buy speedway they are made in china i we had a set break on us not a good experience.

 

i got a 57 4 dr wagon too. i've bought from case alot. he's odd but has a boat load of used parts

 

Just got my H&H catalog! Didn't know that I could get pretty much everything on the entire wagon repopped! Looks like I need to scratch up a penny or two. Looks like I need to make a list of priorities to get it road worthy and then on to the fixin the other stuff.

 

I think everyone has it covered, Id say put a straight axle under it. and I agre that a lot of decent kits with dropped spindles can be found on ebay. think about an idler arm upgrade as well with the teflon bushing and bearing, makes life simpler and easierr to steer......................

 

H&H Cl***ic out of Bentonville Arkansas is another good source. I've had good luck with Cl***ic Chevy Internatiional they have the best tech support.

I have 1" front lowering springs and stock spindles. My headers s****e on all speed bumps.

Root, I didn't know you had the '56. Nice car.