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31 chevy sports coupe body dimensions needed

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Checker Jim, Aug 2, 2012.

  1. Checker Jim
    Joined: Sep 15, 2007
    Posts: 21

    Checker Jim
    Member
    from Vegas

    Hey guys im looking for specs on a 31 chevy 5 window sports coupe. I have torn all of the rotten wood out and am planning on framing it out in steel. Any measurements would be great., inside of door jams front, rear and tops, inside from rear fender to fender front to back etc. and anything on the rumble seat would be great.
    I have all the original steel it was a bone stock car that's been sitting since 62.trying to get as close as I can to stock. Swapped the engine,trans and rear end already.
    ready to get the body mounted.
    Thanks! Will post a few pics up when I get them on my Pc.
    -Jim
     
  2. TFoch
    Joined: Mar 31, 2010
    Posts: 2,389

    TFoch
    Member

    I can't help you but there are plenty of Chevy guys on here. Good luck with your project!
     
  3. Checker Jim
    Joined: Sep 15, 2007
    Posts: 21

    Checker Jim
    Member
    from Vegas

    I'm sure someones got them just waiting on the right guy. Plenty of Ford's Around don't see too many of the Chevy coupes. Been working on it about 3-4 months now It was all complete should be able to get it close but would be nice to have measurements
     
  4. PBRmeASAP
    Joined: Aug 26, 2002
    Posts: 6,893

    PBRmeASAP
    Member

    I'll try and get ya a few off my 32. They sit on the same frame so they should be close
     
  5. Checker Jim
    Joined: Sep 15, 2007
    Posts: 21

    Checker Jim
    Member
    from Vegas

    Right on, thanks bro. Will hopefully get some work done this weekend!
    -Jim
     
  6. Checker Jim
    Joined: Sep 15, 2007
    Posts: 21

    Checker Jim
    Member
    from Vegas

    heres close to what I started with
    [​IMG]
    swapped the rear end out and put in a 65 235 and started ripping it apart to get down to the dirty.
    [​IMG]
    got the cowl and everything off now just have to start removing the back half of the car. trying to keep a bunch of the original nuts, Bolts and brackets so its taking a while and a ton of heat and PB.
     
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2012
  7. Checker Jim
    Joined: Sep 15, 2007
    Posts: 21

    Checker Jim
    Member
    from Vegas

    im looking to do something like this this is not mine, found it online somewhere, might have been here on H.A.M.B. it was months ago.[​IMG]
     
  8. TFoch
    Joined: Mar 31, 2010
    Posts: 2,389

    TFoch
    Member

    Take lots of pictures so you can "remember" how it goes back together!
     
  9. Checker Jim
    Joined: Sep 15, 2007
    Posts: 21

    Checker Jim
    Member
    from Vegas

    yup, I have been bagging and marking every nut, bolt and part and I have a million pics already there is a ton of little parts can't even count how many nails I have yanked out. Not to mention the pile of fire wood :)
     
  10. Ghost28
    Joined: Nov 23, 2008
    Posts: 3,192

    Ghost28
    Member

    Nice coupe. I have put a few back together using new steel structure. I don't have any measurements for ya, but I got a couple of build threads on structuring old chevys in my profile. Might help.
     
  11. Checker Jim
    Joined: Sep 15, 2007
    Posts: 21

    Checker Jim
    Member
    from Vegas

    Thanks ghost will check it out. The other builds I have done from this era have had more steel structure. Chevys used a lot of wood my 29 dodge was 2 years older and had a better built body structure. At least I have all the parts so shouldn't be to hard to mock up.
     
  12. TFoch
    Joined: Mar 31, 2010
    Posts: 2,389

    TFoch
    Member

    Ghost does some nice work. You might be able to "steal" some great ideas from some of his post!
     
  13. Checker Jim
    Joined: Sep 15, 2007
    Posts: 21

    Checker Jim
    Member
    from Vegas

    I was looking at the pics of your 27. did you use 2x2 for the subframe ghost? the lines are similiar on the floors on my 31. I was thinking of welding the lower door sills to the cowl and rear quarters and then the roof to the A pillars on the cowl. that should get me pretty close to where I am supposed to be, then its just squaring it all up. I did a 54 chevy with a body drop on a 98 police car ch***is. all new floor and subframe so this isnt my first rodeo but Im trying to keep this a little more stock looking, might go with a few body mods.
     
  14. Ghost28
    Joined: Nov 23, 2008
    Posts: 3,192

    Ghost28
    Member

    Yep on the 27 I did use 2 by 2 for the sub floor it matched some of the original size wood that was there. I usually start with hanging the doors to the cowl and a piller with new steel if needed ,then go on to the lower door sills keeping a nice body roll back to the quarters, then square everything up check for door operation and attach the upper panels. This will usually line everything up. are you going to blow it all apart and replace the inner structure?
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2012
  15. Checker Jim
    Joined: Sep 15, 2007
    Posts: 21

    Checker Jim
    Member
    from Vegas

    I have it about 80% apart now. I have drawings of the original wood work I am trying to use that as a guide for the main structure of the body.I did the engine mounts before I started removing the body, so when its all back together it should all line back up if I get it right. you did your 27 the way I am doing the 31. going to frame inside the cowl, hang the doors to the cowl and work my way back. as long as the doors are functioning the rest should line up ok.
    when I got it some of the original wood was still in place so I marked it and am using it as a template to rebuild a new skeleton. the woodwork back then was amazing a lot of detail for something m*** produced. I am not suprised 80+ years later some are still on the road with the original wood.
    anyway 2x is what I was thinking also 1x should be fine for the rest. got to get a couple of the guys from the club over to help lift the rear of the body, its about ready to come off.[​IMG]
     
  16. Ghost28
    Joined: Nov 23, 2008
    Posts: 3,192

    Ghost28
    Member

    You can use for the inner framework of the body 3/4 inch square down to 1/2 inch square in the doors for support areas. I find this size square tubing bends fairly easy to achieve the curves needed and is really strong if placed in the right areas. Did ya notice how they left about a 1/16th inch gap between the metals to keep the squeaks out when they nailed it all together? Good luck on your build.
     
  17. TFoch
    Joined: Mar 31, 2010
    Posts: 2,389

    TFoch
    Member

    Ghost you're the man!
     
  18. Ghost28
    Joined: Nov 23, 2008
    Posts: 3,192

    Ghost28
    Member

    Naw your da man. Are ya getting your chevy done?
     
  19. TFoch
    Joined: Mar 31, 2010
    Posts: 2,389

    TFoch
    Member

    I've been spending too much time working on my granddaughter's stroller. But I think she likes it! But it's coming along. Sorry Checker Jim don't want to take over this thread.
     

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    Last edited: Aug 5, 2012
  20. Checker Jim
    Joined: Sep 15, 2007
    Posts: 21

    Checker Jim
    Member
    from Vegas

    wasnt enough wood left to notice a Gap but that is pretty cool. there was however some wood body shims and some type of asphault or rubber between the apron and the frame. most of the body structural wood was burned up in a fire many moons ago so I dont have but a few pieces to gauge with the factory drawings what was there before.everything above the floor was burned some of the rumble seat area wood was left. im thinking the white you see on the body was from the fire extinguisher and melted paint.
     
  21. Checker Jim
    Joined: Sep 15, 2007
    Posts: 21

    Checker Jim
    Member
    from Vegas

    TFoch how are your headlights supported on your 33? I wanted to change out that bar holding mine but am not sure what I want to do yet. I dont like how it crosses the Radiator. was thinking of coming off the frame but like the look of it coming from the fender. I think it was designed to keep the fenders from flexing too.
     
  22. TFoch
    Joined: Mar 31, 2010
    Posts: 2,389

    TFoch
    Member

    Jim, Mine are supported by a bar that goes from the fender to the grill shell. Here's a picture of it. Tom
     

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  23. TFoch
    Joined: Mar 31, 2010
    Posts: 2,389

    TFoch
    Member

    Here's a picture of the headlight bar itself.
     

    Attached Files:

  24. Checker Jim
    Joined: Sep 15, 2007
    Posts: 21

    Checker Jim
    Member
    from Vegas

    thats cool,your grill shell is dressed up a bit more than mine but I got that nice stone guard and a clean bowtie. Looks out of place with that bar strung across it. I might just cut the stock one and bend it into the shell or find a set from a 33.
    I want to keep the body mods to a min. stuff you wouldnt noticed unless you know what to look for to ID it as a 31.
    got a ways to go before I think about all that it just caught my eye, thats a killer ride.
    I caught a bug and am a little under the weather, hopefully will be back up and about in the morning and can get some work done after work tomorrow.
     
  25. Ghost28
    Joined: Nov 23, 2008
    Posts: 3,192

    Ghost28
    Member

    I might have a set of headlight bars for a 33. The only problem I see using them would be the modification moving them back far enough on the fender to line up with the side of the grille shell. The original headlight bar acts as support for the fender supports. The original one doesn't look to bad when cleaned up. Have ya thought about doing a modification on the bar itself to lower your headlights tighter to the fender?
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2012
  26. Checker Jim
    Joined: Sep 15, 2007
    Posts: 21

    Checker Jim
    Member
    from Vegas

    yea I noticed they support the fenders, thats why I was wanting to bolt them to the grill shell. going to have to play with it when i get to that point, working on the cowl now. once thats bolted up to the body I can get the hood and grill shell back into place and mess with it then. im trying not to remove the fenders and running boards unless I have too I like the "Patina" on them. I am having some leather tooled for the step boards. maybe by this time next week I should be at the front end again.
    -Jim
     

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