Hi guy's.. here's my question.. I just finished rewiringmy 53 chevy. I used an EZ kit which i've used before, and this one was smooth as gl***.. Anyway. I'm still running my points dizzy, so i wired it like a normal 12v point's system. 12v from the switch to the ballast, then two wire's from the voltage drop side. One to the + of the coil, and one to the resistor side of the starter. The car starts and runs fine...but. When i was testing the ballast with my multimeter, i get 12v to each side of the resistor with the ignition on, engine off..AND, the resisitor starts to smoke. I realise resistor's build heat, so i know they will get hot, but i'venever had one that smoked before..let alone more than one. I was wondering if maybe the point's were closed which is why the ballast smoked..I know, not a good idea to have the key turned on without it running 'cause i could fry my point's. When i start it, it does drop voltage to about 9.5. I've tried 3 resistors on this, including one from my 32, and all have the same result.. On the 32, it reads 12v to one side, and about 6-7 at the other. This has alway's been my expierience with this set up. What the hell is going on here!? Is the 9.5 voltage enough drop for the point's?.... Any help would be appreciated. Or personal expierience with something like this problem...lemme know. thanks. Tony
9.5 is high, you'll use up the points in a hurry. Recheck your wiring, make sure the wire from the starter is only hot when the key is in "start" position. I'd check it with the engine not running and again with it running just to be sure. Might be a problem in the harness- either pinched and shorted or could be a manufacturing problem-wires connected inside the harness that shouldn't be. You could try disconnecting the harness and running your own wires to test, only three wires, wouldn't take long. Never seen this problem before,aren't old cars fun?
12v both sides of resistor with points open is normal, but sounds like you may have some resistance in the coil ground circuit. Did you try your dads coil also? What was that reading? Is the ballast new?, Some smoke while they burn off the factory coatings, lasts a short time but looks like your letting the magic out. This page has a quick test a may be of some help... Good Luck... H http://www.candylangdon.com/ignitiontestdetailed.html
I re checked all my wiring, and it is spot on. . I disconnected everything going to the ballast except the feed wire comming in. Tested all of them for feedback, with the key on and off. I have nothing coming from the starter 'R' poll, and obviously nothing coming back from the coil. I'm starting to think the coil itself may be bad. It was a new one, but that means nothing now day's. I have feeling there isn't enough resistance in the coil wire from the ballast. The smoke i was talking about wasn't the factory coating, thats for sure. Because i was sending 12v right into the dizzy, with the point's closed, it was a direct short basically and the weakest link was the ballast, so it got HOT and smoked like "Cheech and Chong" and a bong party! I havn't pulled the coil of MY (not dads ) coupe yet , but thats the next step. THANKS for the help and the link! Tony
The one i was using did require it, but thank's for the hint. I picked up another coil last night from a buddy.. he had a new one on his shelf, so i'm gonna head out there and get back at it. Aside from needed a new set of point's now, i *think* this is going to solve this. THANKS to all you guy's for you help!
well here's what i did. I swapped out the coil that was in it with the new one. Powered up the system to check volt's. Still has 12 going into the ballast, and 9 or so coming out with the point's closed..and it still smoke's pretty good because the point's were closed.. I only had the key on long enough to check voltage. BUT, when i start it, it again read's 9 coming out of the resistor, 9 going into the coil, BUT 6 from the - of the coil to the dizzy. I again swapped the coil back to the one i had in it before..Same exact thing. It does have 6 volt's going to the point's from the coil even though the coil has 9 going into it. I guess this is working as it should.. But i still can't understand the damn smoke form the resistor. Am i right by thinking it's smoking because the point's are closed causing a overload on the ballast which is getting it hot enough to smoke? Oh well. I'll carry an extra ballast, and point set. I think i'm also gonna loose the point's as soon as i can aford a petronics kit... Again, i wanna thank you guy's for your help! "Happy Motoring" haha Tony.
Ditto what yorgatron said; I've seen new ballast resistors smoke on first time they are used (maybe some oil residue on there) . Does yours do this every time?
I'm gonna go over my grounds tomorrow. The only time mine does it is when you have the key on and the point's are closed.. it dosn't smoke instantly, but within 20-30 second's it will. The only reason i had the key on without it running was to check voltage to different thing's under the hood...normally i would never just leave the key on and not start the car. When i go to just start it like you would normally, it's fine. I need a new set of point's now though! LOL
If the points are open, the voltage on both sides of the ballast resistor will be approximately 12 volts. If the points are closed, the voltage on the coil side of the ballast resistor will be substantially lower than 12 volts. The actual voltage will be a function of the resistance of the coil and the resistance of the ballast. (Youre measuring the voltage in the middle of a voltage divider circuit). ALL GM coils need a ballast resistor (or a resistance wire) if youre running 12 volts. Factory GM coils are intended as direct replacements for GM cars and, since GM cars with Kettering (points) ignition already have a resistance wire, GM doesnt bother to put the use with external resistor on the side of the coil. That DOESNT mean theres a resistor inside. It means its intended to be used in the GM vehicle it was ordered for. Aftermarket coils, on the other hand, are universal in nature and, as such carry the use with external resistor warning on the outside.
anyone know where to get lengths of resistance wire? Or a part number for a coil with built in resistance? This is actually for a bike I am building.
Parkwood, Any real parts store will have fuseable link or resistance wire by the ft., be able to look up a proper coil for ya and sell them both to you on the spot. Good luck..... H
Hey Tony, if you would have shipped the coupe down here, I would have bought you those Dist parts you needed............. you missed out I guess.........
There you have it from the guy who wrote the book. What about his ballest smoking Skip? I've had new ones smoke, but only for a few seconds.
I would take a coil, and another ballast resistor and lay them on the fender. Then take some wire and wire them up, and run a wire to the distributor. Take a wire and hook it hold it on the resistor and the positive battery terminal. If the resistor still smokes pull the wire to the distributor. If that stops it I would tear into the distributor and find out what is shorted out. I had that problem on my flathead 6 when I first bought the truck. It turned out to be the stud in the side of the housing the coil wire goes to. I had tightened the stud locknut down and pulled the head through the plastic washer and it was grounded out. Hope this helps Rod
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