AUGUST 2012 Banger Meet <HR style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #e5e5e5; COLOR: #e5e5e5" SIZE=1><!-- / icon and title --> <!-- message -->Here is the banger link list . For the HAMB banger newbies, here are some links to a lot of banger info: Flat Ernie maintains the monthly link list. Every month is listed: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=161498 Banger basics. another info link list: http://www.fordgarage.com/ http://www.billsbangers.com http://www.plucks329s.org/index.htm http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=251717 http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=42480 Post #105 of link below shows flywheel lightening dimensions http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...=470853&page=6 Model B rod bearing insert numbers http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...84#post6992484 Engine tuning with a Vacuum gauge http://www.centuryperformance.com/tu...e-spg-148.html Adjusting dual Strombergs: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...61#post6638461 Helpful Model A tools and tips: http://www.maurer-markus.ch/ford_a/tipps.index.en.html Elrod's stuck head tech: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=218487 Model A generator to alternator conversion: http://ejwhitneyco.com/automotive.html Gear ratio / speed and RPM calculator: http://www.accuautoparts.com/calculatorfin.jsp Model A master cylinder mounting bracket ideas: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...73#post4953173 Go here to read the 1931 edition of Harry Ricardo's book "The High Speed Internal Combustion Engine" http://www.scribd.com/full/40610101?...icdancrnxypd05 Chevy Banger Stuff http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=463465 http://www.scribd.com/doc/22469332/T...e-Ricardo-1931 Post 198 starts a great discussion of the shape of a flat head combustion chamber http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...470853&page=10 Maybe these links should be posted early in each months meeting. If anyone knows of more, please post them.
I take it you are just looking for engine parts. I have quite a few body trim parts, door handles headlights and so forth
Bill, I'm pretty good with trim, etc right now (and had to put the speedster on the back-burner while I get my daily friver going), but will let you know if that changes. Thanks, Bill
I'm replacing the stock distributor cap on my Dad's Model A with a modern version and some cloth braided wires. The new cap is marked with numbers on the top but I'm not even sure what the original firing order for this thing is. Are the cylinders 1-2-3-4 from front to rear? Here's a diagram of the numbers on the cap:
Yes Bill but not everyone on the HAMB lives where you live.. I did this for the Banger Boys Down Under.... Ron
Cool deal. That doesnt really make sense to me though. If the firing order is 1-2-3-4 why isnt the cap 1-2-3-4 in a counter clockwise circle instead of 1-2-4-3?
yay it is the the first down here progress on the car rebuild is steady as soon as i have spring perches arrive it will be drivable again repaint and maybe new upholstery to go aiming for the Beachhop in our northern island March next year hopping it will be a higher standard but keeping its period style the temptations to go modern are great.
Got my heap running last weekend... <a href="%3Ciframe%20width=" 560"="" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/MUl-qlxOWiE" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="">"><a href="%3Ciframe%20width=" 560"="" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/MUl-qlxOWiE" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""><iframe src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/MUl-qlxOWiE" allowfullscreen="" width="560" frameborder="0" height="315"></iframe>
Muttley, I think the firing order is 1-2-4-3, but the cylinder order is 1, 2, 3, 4 from front to back.
The old one is tired. It was well used when I got it. I put 10,000 hard miles on it since 2009. I don't have the time or all of the equipment to do the machine work myself. I'll do the assembly, they will do most of the machine work. .
firing order for model "A" Order is 1243 *cylinders are 1234 from the front ......... if still having trouble , email .... kzsteve@yahoo.com
The old wing cap made the wire connections easy. The wires from the cap to the plugs did not cross each other because they were copper brass and not insulated. The cross over was made inside the cap. Excellent basic engineering so anybody could not mess up the firing order.
Got the car running, almost. It starts right up but it feels like I'm chasing my tail getting the Winfield carburetor tuned right. It's a model T engine with a Rajo B overhead. The carburetor is a single BB Model S. First problem is the fuel pressure. I'm using a hand pump to pressurize the tank to a maximum of 2 P.S.I.. Even then the carburetor wants to leak between the float bowl cover and the strainer bowl and the float bowl cover and the float bowl. New gaskets without sealant and the surfaces are flat and without cracks. Should I expect some leakage? The engine was stumbling so I lowered the float. The level was at the bottom of the inspection hole. I lowered the level approx 1/32 and that seemed to take care of the stumbling and coincidentally the carburetor doesn't leak as bad. At higher RPM the engine backfires through the carburetor so I assumed it was leaning out. I've got the idle set at 20 clicks, the intermediate at 36 and the high speed at 42. The needles are the earlier blunt style so the greater the number of clicks. It still wants to backfire through the carburetor when I push it hard. Is the float level now too low? I'm running a Bosch DU4 magneto with the gap set at 0.012. Plugs are Autolite 3923 gaped at 0.018 I'm hoping someone has had or has a similar setup and share some secrets. The last AARA race is in September and I'm hoping to make it, but I'd rather have the car running well now, rather than tune it at the track. Thanks
You will get some leakage with new gaskets if the mating areas on the fuel filler housing are not flat, sometimes you can use a small bead of Pern #2 applied with a tooth pick. The float level needs to be correct as stated in literature, right to bottom of threads. Not sure about early blunt needles. All of the needles I have checked were/are 13 degrees on a side. Many needles are bent when replacing float chamber cover. I have set them by printed instructions, air fuel meter, and color tune. But not on an engine like yours. I usually don't have to open the intermediate that far. The idle needle, contrary to what C Yapp Quotes, controls the air. The fuel available to the idle circuit is from the intermediate well so basic fuel/float level inters into correct settings. I'm sure you have noticed that there are slots cut into the float chamber and fuel will splash there. The air bleeds should be checked with pins or drill shanks as quite a few have been opened up. I do run Winfield's All of the carburetors shown are BB's and all have #28 air bleeds Notice that the side drafts have been "tweaked" slightly on the flanges so they are level for tuning. The clock speed is for the flathead. 2 pounds pressure is okay if the float needle seats good, I lap mine in, made a tool to hold needle parallel, have held higher pressure but not necessary, 1.5 will do.
Thanks, I'm convinced I'm causing some of the problems myself. I've got a Quick Fuel pressure regulator ordered to keep the fuel pressure below 2 lbs. and I'm going to raise the fuel level to just below the inspection hole and we'll see what happens. Some pics of the final assembly:
A comment on changing the float level on Winfield carburetors. I take the float chamber cover off and remove the lever from the cover and bend the flat brass lever in a vise using a small square to measure amount. You only have to break one of the bosses out by leveraging against the cap to change level to know why. I also back the adjusting screws out after counting clicks. They are easy to bend or blunt the points by misalignment when replacing the cap. This is not legend or myth but the voice of experience!
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