Bill, thanks for the help. I've gotten in the habit of backing out the needle screws when taking the apart the float body. I do need to remove the float lever from the carb body when adjusting to not break any of the pivot bosses. Waiting on the pressure regulator, hope to have this weekend.
Figured I take this to the banger guru's for an I.D. Could someone tell me more about this engine? Only shot I have at the moment. Chevy, Ford, What?
Goodmorning Y'all, I Got a head bolt torque question. 55 ft./lbs. & I've heard retorque within the first hour of running & even a few more retorques later on. I test drove it to work & back home then about 20min after retorqued. Q: Do I retorque warm, hot, or cold?
Sorry about putting a 6 in the 4 thread, really. I have a lot of respect for the banger guys (and maybe gals).
They say that it is per the gasket makers instructions. My latest gasket on my 6.1 Snyders head has re-torques done cold. This is not a traditional copper type gasket. What type of gasket ya got?
Looks like a copper sandwidch type. I traded some 40 brakes for two 4 bangers & one was supposibly rebuilt. I threw it in sunday night retorqued the head & started it perfect with one tap of the starter. Yesterday I test drove it to work & back home then about 20 minutes later retorqued. So I must have done it warm. Yesterday at lunch I notice typical light seepage on the piston side not today though.
I would like to see more pictures and more information. Thanks for posting and you have not made anybody mad. Thanks again
Hot rod did an article on that engine, Ford flathead 6. Bluto you know the owner. I posted this when I got back from the States in 2010 with the owners permission http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=519515&highlight=flathead+ford
LOWCAB My comments we're just pot sturring........ I have to resist talking 6 cylinder here all the time. I should have used smiles
Hi gang I have a bit of a problem. The mating surfaces on my connecting rods are really bad according to my engine builder. I might have a better set somewhere. But what are my options here? Is it possible to remove the studs to machine them? Should I buy a set of new ones? Does anyone of you guys have a set of new ones or ready machined that you are willing to let go? It's for a model B. The real problem with this is that I need to have them within 2 weeks max and that's about the time parcels stays in customs in this shitty country. What would you do? Thanks, Magnus
Really bad????? what does that mean? Are they twisted? Not flat? how bad? If they are not cracked, I would think that the studs could be removed, the mating surfaces machined, then re sized. Quicker then finding new ones, and the shipping required. .
There must be guys up there that have rods. I have a n insert B motor but don't want to sell just the rods.
here's a car i've been building. should fire it up soon, once my ignition parts show up. it's been coming together really fast, and i have been having a lot of fun with it. you can see the build thread here: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=723050&showall=1
I have gone thru about 15 rods now. I have 4 that seems OK. At least 3 of them. the problem is that all of them seems to have been torqued to tight and the cap and rods mating surfaces are concave. This makes the cap possible to rock side to side. I don't know how big of a problem this is but my engine guy don't like it. Never measure... You'll always find a problem. I'm a bit frustrated and want to know what options i have. The time factor is what makes it hard. Mabe it will be quicker to put my G28T together. Thanks, Magnus
When you lightly tighten the caps, not over tight, can you slip a feeler strip, (gauge) between cap and rod? If so, how much? Carefully stroke the caps a few times with a file,see what the witness marks look like.
This is a very topical subject for us guys overseas much as we try we often not get it right we find parts but not many complete engines. Little snipits like Bluto and lately Crazydaddyo or Zach Suhr on his interesting website are a help but a complete series of pics would be great.
Speedy Bill's museum website is probably the best collection on vintage Banger speed equipment out there! http://www.museumofamericanspeed.com/default.dlp
Your engine builder should know how to fix this too. Another way would be to place emory cloth on a flat surface and run the connecting rod over it to get a witness mark.
Each day I come to this forum and agitate and sometimes try to help on some of the simpler things. You know the kind of questions that that the clerks at AutoZone and or PepBoys can't answer cause they ain't 76 years old And from time to time some one will post a comment and a picture of their build so you can appreciate the quality of their work So I thought I would update my progress on my current build. I'm doing all of the work myself mostly but my wife lifts the heavier stuff. I have included a recent photograph so you can see the finer more technical points as I describe them. This is a T frame with original plates attached frame to rear crossmember to lower rear end, I may install bigger bolts. Rear end is close to where it will be just gotta bend the spring perches slightly. Rear end is a 40 with 4 11's built by Joe Mac. Body is also close to fit, just needs a couple a brackets, a little TLC and its race ready, hood was sanded and could stand some paint. That is a NOS firewall, well may be not N but it is old. You can't see the square galvanized hardware cloth grill in that shell but it's there. Just got to flip that 2 3/4' lowered T front axle over and find some clamps and we are good to go. Gonna flip that front crossmember to lower a bit more. Those 600 16 rear tires are actually from the 50's or 60's, not sure, guy I got m from died 20 years ago. Any way they are "maypops" Well, just glad I could share this build with you guys. Any questions? Sure hope you can take a joke!
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