my 31 coupe drivers door opening measures 26-3/4" at the bottom & 27-1/16" at the top, p*** side is 26-3/4" at the bottom and 27-1/2" at the top. mounted drivers door and it wont close. hinges all lined up, but roof panel above door seems to be too far forward (see pics). piece under gutter overlaps A pillar. p***. side has piece under gutter sort of indented behind A pillar (see pic). when i got the body, the gas tank was set and fit well. both A pillars are indentical when i put an angle finder on them. i've drilled out the rivit in the 90 deg angle bracket that connects the A pillar to the piece above the door in order to port-a-power the pillar forward. before i do that does anyone have any better ideas? i've made all new top wood with a store bought header but top wood is not connected to the header yet.
if you unscrew the "A" pillar from the wood over the door won't it just push forward? i don't think you will need a porta-power.
You're **** about backward. Treat it from the bottom, not the top. The door spaces are controlled by shimming the body where it mounts to the frame. Undo the mounts from the B pillar forward. Then you can raise where necessary or lower if it already has shims. You may have to do the cowl/ firewall mounts as well. This is the correct way to do it. It can be a pain because if you have to raise the cowl it may throw your hood out of line. You will be suprised how much the body can move around.
the body is just sitting on the frame. not bolted anywhere. the bottom dimensions will allow the doors to close and the p***. side top dim. seems like it will allow that door to close too. frame is level side to side. tb33, its pretty tough to move that pillar. i first tried a pipe clamp with one side reversed to get a bite but i could only move it a quarter inch. i left the door on so all hinges would move in unison.
I know what you are saying about the door opening at the top,at the top of the A pillar there are the 2 screws that attach the strip that comes from the B pillar which seems to set the top door opening measurement at the top.I had to loosen the 2 nuts that attach that strip to the B pillar and get a 1/16" movement there to get the opening wider at the top.My take on the shiming at the bottom is they can only square up the door opening and swag lines not actually adjust the opening gaps.These were never brillant when new,Try and find a happy medium and go for it otherwise you will chase your tail .
I spent weeks trying to get my door openings right, then when I discovered working at it from the bottom it all fell into place.
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