My '60 Falcon wagon is still sporting her original black enamel. She shines up quite well as it but I don't usually polish her. Any suggestions? The last wax I tried I think was Turtle but it was a real ****** to get off! Left lots of swirls. And I'm doing this by hand...not machine.
Try some Mequiar's Tech 2.0 wax. It is the best I have ever found and even makes chrome better looking than chrome polish. AutoZone and Advance carry it, not cheap, I think about $ 20, but it goes a long way. We even use it on our satin paint jobs and it helps keep gas spills and stuff like bugs from staining the finish. Oh, and invest in some microfiber towels to both put it on and take it off. Don
I think you will like it. It comes off really easy and leaves no white residue. You will be amazed what it does for chrome, and unlike chrome cleaners it won't take any of the plating off each time you use it. Let me know how you like it. Don
I would agree with the tech wax. Make sure you buy the actual wax, not the extender (They look very similar, but the extender is just for in between wax jobs.) Actually, any of the clear liquid type waxes would probably work well. If you don't polish it much, I would really suggest you consider finding someone that KNOWS how to buff old paint without ruining it and get a nice buff job done professionally. You will find it will be very easy to wax after that and it will stay nice much longer. Just make sure they know old cars and know it is likely thin paint. It won't take much likely. Just a light machine buff and polish.
My back started hurting when I read that. I would try some fine grit swirl remover, then polish. 52 year old enamel is probably going to be very hard, but do some sample spots to get an idea of how deep the swirl remover cuts 1st.
Really, for this black to come out swirl/stain free will take a lot of time. Wax is not meant to be a polish. 1. Clay bar. 2. Polish with a polish. 3. Glaze (deepest shine) 4. Sealant or wax. I just finished a '68 R/T 440 (50,000 cream puff) Buffed out a 34 year old re-spray. 12 hrs total. Too bad you are not closer.
"My back started hurting when I read that." Excuse my ignorance, but is waxing this car more of a job than I think it is? I do remember using a fine grit compound on it than waxing maybe 16yrs ago. The black on the roof started coming off onto the cloth so I didn't do it again. Like I've said though, the sides really are in nice shape and shine up quite well considering. Do you all using buffing machines to shine up your rides? I just got back from WalMart: 1 bottle-Mother's Carnauba Wash& Wax 1 bottle-Meguirar's GoldCl*** Carnauba Plus wax 1 5 pack- Microfiber applicators 1 Wash & Scrub microfiber sponge 1-10 pack of microfiber cloths Total......40 bucks. Any mistakes on that list? redlinetoys.....getting a one-time projob sounds like a good idea. I'll look into that. But ya know....she's NOT a primo show quality vehicle. There's small sections of body rot at the rear wheelwells above the fender skirts. Nothing major but annoying non the less. Fix that and now we need a new paintjob! I know she could be magnificent if I had the resources to do a ground-up but that's not gonna happen anytime soon. I'll get her gussied up as best I can and proudly promenade down the boulevard, with her on my arm! I'll post pics at some point. Thanks!
Best products I've found for non-swirl black paint jobs is "Adam's" products. They sell an entire kit, including washing mitt, clay bar, polish, glaze, sealant, interior shampoo, detailing spray and a "How to" CD in a bucket. I forgot how much it cost because it was back in 2000. The only thing I added was a gallon of detail spray. Once I polished , glazed and sealed the car, I just wipe the car down with the detail spray. It's been years since I've waxed my cars. John Denich, here on the Hamb, as sells his line of products.
This will answer ALL your questions. This also should give you an idea what you are in for! http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...w-car-finish-antique-single-stage-paints.html
A clay bar is a bar of clay. You use some spray on wax for a lube and rub it over the paint. It will remove dirt that is stuck in the pores of the paint and give you a cleaner surface to wax. It really works great! I have even used clay bars on old windows to give them a new shine. Mother's and other company's have clay bar kits. It's worth the little extra time.
I have a 30 yr old paint job on my 29 rpu, black no clear, and find lucas wax, yes the oil guys, the nicest i've found. But there are a million waxes out there
You guys are KILLIN' ME!!!!! I'm getting visions of DASBOOT with a shine requiring welders goggles to look at! Maybe it's time to re-evaluate where I want to take this car to aesthetically. RodStRace.....GREAT site! My addictive personality is undergoing some EXTREME stimulation!!
This is the 'before of a 36 year old re-spray single stage. and the 'after' of what can be done with a multi-stage buffing session.
slammed....that's BEAUTIFUL!!! I'd be REAL happy with a finish like that. I gotta start asking around to see who can do this. Thanks!
Thank-you. It was done these past few days. An OT '68 R/T 440 w/ 50,000 miles. Garaged but never buffed 'till now. 12 hrs total. 4 step: Flex rotary buffer 1. Brief rough cut/ white wool pad. 2. Mild polish w/ yellow wool. 3. Polish w/foam pad (lots) 4. Glaze/foam pad. Sealant was applied with a Flex Orbital w/ yellow foam pad.
The real answer is if you really want it to shine, you HAVE to polish it before waxing. GOOD wax does not contain any polish or abrasive. It is made to protect, not polish. Since you have Meguire's anyway, a very good very mild polish (non-abrasive) is Meguires #3, or even #2. You might not find them in a regular auto parts store, go to an auto body supply house. Polishes are easier to use with a buffer, but these will work OK by hand. But you WILL get better, faster results with a machine! If there are spots that won't take a shine, then you might have to use a fine abrasive compound, just on those spots. Then polish and wax. If the fine compound doesn't work, on your old paint job, leave it alone. You might not have enough paint left on it for more aggressive action.
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