I bracing up the ch***is in my convertible with 2x4, and 2x2 .120 tubing. What are you guys using to rust proof the inside of tubing that will be exposed to the elements? I can't dip it like the factory did. It's mild steel with the usual mill scale. I'm planning to use Eastwood rust encapsulator sprayed down the inside of the tubes before welding, with weld through primer on the edges. Any better way to do it?
I know that aircraft builders used to put oil inside tube weldments before sealing them. The seat frames for instance in sea going airplanes had an ounce or 2 of oil put in the bottom of the tubes before they got welded closed. I think you could just put a hole big enough for the straw of a PB Blaster can to fit in and give it a good spray then put a screw or some other plug in the hole.
Never rust proofed any tubing in any car... are you using some kind of hot rolled tubing that has mill scale?
I don't really think there would be a need to worry about it in my opinion. If your vehicle is not seeing extreme conditions or road salt you will be long gone before it would ever be an issue. If your bracing, shouldn't the ends of the tubing be welded at both ends and nothing should be able to enter inside the tubing? To my knowledge, I don't think ch***is builders coat the inside of frame rails when they box them? Pics might help you get a little more specific answer for your application.
Body wax. Buy it at any automotive paint store. I use it on all my builds, ch***is & any area I cant reach to prime and paint. Rust converters only work on rusty surfaces.
this works good.... "]http://3mcollision.com/3m-rust-fighter-i-08891.html[/URL] for getting inside frames or whatever, you put in on with the 08998 applicator wand which is about 2 ft or so long. Stick the wand inside the rail or a hole in the rail as far as you can, and as you apply the material, pull the wand back out of the hole. That will coat the inside of the rail as you remove it....repeat procedure til entire desired coating area is covered. We use this stuff at the collision shop I work at and its very good.
Stand the ch***is on end when it's done and pour 1/4 cup of castor oil mixed with 1 tbsp of hot chili powder in the end of both rails. Take it to the car wash and shoot hot water with soap in the end of each tube or rail. When you run out of quarters or when the chili powder runs out of a specified hole, (which we will specify at a later date) let it stand on end for 3-1/2 days. Then blow air at 56-1/2 lbs of pressure into the tubes or rails for 12-1/2 minutes. Then get it powdercoated and proceed. Lippy
The part that I am not sure of is where you say "exposed to the elements." Does that mean the ends of the box tubing are open so water can get in there ? If so, simply cap them and maybe drill a couple of holes in the bottom for drainage in case any moisture gets in somehow. We've never coated the insides of any box tubing or when we box a frame, like the guys said, you won't be around to see it rust out anyway. Don
boshield t-9 http://boeshield.com/ But why bother, I agree with nochop. BTW your mild steel tubing should not come with mill scale on it.
I've got a Buddy that's an aircraft mechanic and according to him they use linseed oil in aircraft frame tubes. Bob
Anything you put inside a tube can compromise the welding. Most of my welding is on stock cars so they have a limited lifespan. I agree with small weep holes in case someone wants to go through the effort so they sleep better at night. Bob
If a portion of the tube is being left open, there is an expanding foam that's used for some situations. That would be done AFTER welding.
Thanks guys, gonna give Tube Seal try. The steel is listed as ASTM A500 Grade B https://www.metalsdepot.com/products/hrsteel2.phtml?page=rttube&LimAcc= &aident= I cut open the rear subframe and slid the 2x4 tubing in the opening and will be welding on the cut line and some 1.5" "plug weld" holes I'm cutting in the sides of the subframe. I can't get to the end to weld it closed. In the front I have a brake line that needs a p*** through. Otherwise I'd seal it up and drill the weep holes. P.S. Don't plan on livin that long, too boring...
Dont worry about it,l ive seen bare steel on the inside of 1960's cars that doesnt have a speck of rust(the underside of the roof on my '64 el camino comes to mind, it was never painted) And as for the inside of tubes it wont be a problem for a least 200 years in california
I have heard about the linseed oil treatment too. What about the foam (Great Stuff) to fill the void and prevent condensation?? Fill the tube with a small hole at one end to insert the foam and another hole at the other end to let any air or excess foam out. wm
Framesaver is what we use for bicycles and motorcycles. I plan to use it on my car. I'm MN the temp changes cause moisture. Lot's of things rust from the inside out.
i just made this tip for my undercoat gun. i made it using a pip connector that had a hex shaped body so i could drill holes in all six sides, and then plug the end. i recently used it to spray the inside of a deck lid and doors. in the past i have turned my spraygun to "garden hose", blasted the inside and then used a blow gun with an extension to get it in all the nooks and crannies.
If you sealed up the tube really good, and found a way to eliminate any oxygen from inside the tube it wont corrode..oxidation needs oxygen
When I was working at a Small aircraft Business... we used Linseed oil for inside the tubing.EG.. Fabric aircraft or even float planes.. keep in mind it will seep if there are any holes or cracks as well..
Chromoly tubing has some kind of oil inside it thay I'm always trying to get out. It can run out when the tube gets hot from welding and screw up your weld. Never have put anything back inside, although I'm sure it's a good idea.
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