Steering U joints in a FED, any one do this?

I'm having some clearance problems , I'm going to use a early ford 3 speed top loader trans in my flathead powered dragster, problem is the shift tower is too close to the steering box, I was thinking about off setting the box and useing a couple u Joints , anyone do this and if so was there any binding, if it won't work I'll just raise the box up , haven't made the body yet so that won't be a problem, Thanks Tim Jones

 

Or you could use a side shift box.

 

I saw a pic of one on vanpelts webstie today, are they hard to come by?

 

I meant to say a side shift top loader

 

I don't see why the u-joints would be an issue. There are millions of them in use. Just use good quality ones, keep the angles as small as possible, and install them like the manufacturer says to. The only reason I can think of to not use them would be if some sanctioning body doesn't allow them.

 

Thanks , I saw some on a friends 1961 dragster but I believe his is a cackel type car, the tech probs at the track was my main concern , Thanks Tim Jones

 

I have 2 u-joints on my steering shaft since my steering is almost in the center of my car. Use quality u-joints from Jegs, Summit, ART (applied racing tech). It is important to use a support shaft. I got mine from ART in Flordia. If you have a chrome moly car, make sure to TIG weld the support into place. If your car is mild steel, you can MIG it into place. As said above, keep the angles as straight as possible.
No trouble p***ing tech as long as the parts are quality and the welds are correct.
Mike

 

Thanks Mike That helps a bunch, The car is mild steel but we have a tig at work so it will be tig welded, If you click on my signature it will open my build and show what I'm building , Thanks Tim Jones

 

The steering box is usually located as far forward as possible, like on the hoop making up the midplate/firewall. That way it is just the shaft running back to the driver and well clear of anything. The box itself is mounted highish - need to do the math on the pitman arm height and being able to get the drag link under the headers - but it is above the bellhousing. You really shouldn't need any universals in it anywhere.
I had a looksee but missed the steering mockup, can you post a picture? Something sounds amiss and in a dragster everything has its specific place, a g***er you can move things around but altereds and dragsters are built on strict economy.

 

All three car here have U-joints in the shaft.On mine and the Jeep Altered I built I used OEM joints and the original shaft. Both cars have the box to the frame rail. The Blue rail to the left hand rail mounted sideways. The jeep the box is on the right and works vertical bringing the extended Pitman arm out just under the Ch***is and the drag link runs up the right had side. I would do that again too. It is a good set up.
The Plumbers Nightmare, the Black vintage hemi rail, has I believe three U joints. 3/4 inch I believe and Mike bought them from Billy at Speedway. His car uses a rack and pinion. Some idiot told him the box wasnt period correct. Mike quickly informed him that the car he got it from was made in 1957 and Mike went on to say he figured that he was certainly not the first to use one even back in the day. So just be sure the joint is more then strong enuf and of good quaility and all will be well.
Don

 

Tim,
there is no reason why you cant offset mount the steering box to get the shaft past the shift mechanism. As suggested by others, use the good "helicopter" U joints (the ones with the orange silicone boots). They are a little spendy and may not be totally period correct but they are a lot less "clunky" than the street rods ones from Borgeson etc. Also no reason why you can't tilt the box to get the steering linkage/pitman arm in the right place re the headers etc. The best way to locate the rear portion of the column if you do go the U-joint route is to run it through a tubular sleeve with nylon/Delrin/bronze bushes in each end. Hang the sleeve off the dash bar or whatever else is convenient.

Roo

 

Tim I put my VW box over on the side, so no need to extend the shaft and it leaves room to mount a battery where the box was, I might mount the collume of the rearend too

 

Thanks for all the input fellas , I think I'll go with the U joint setup, if I set it up higher as Oj said I'd have to make another set of headers, made three sets and only the set I don't like will clear, plus puts the steering wheel too high, so u joints it is, here's some pics, when I first set up the steering I was going to use a in and out box, but lack of reverse and haveing to have the right input shaft made , i decided to go with the 3 speed toploader as you can see in the pics the shft and shifter ran into each other, thanks again Tim Jones

 

Thanks for the pic Moon , Mine will have alot less angle, Hell if yours turns with no bind under the weight of two motors I should have no problem at all, I'll have to use the U joints I have for now , at right under a hunderd bucks a piece I'll wait to get the incaesed U joints Rooman mentioned ,the car is still some time off before it's all done, Thanks Tim Jones

 

Dragsled, how's that thing speed shift? Looks like it might be a chore to hit 2nd on a hard up...

 

Don't know yet, The shifter is going to be changed ,it's on the never ending list of changes I have one pic of a dragster useing a 3 speed My buddy Bobby sent me of his 1961 dragster, I'll try his style and see how it goes here's a couple pics he sent me Thanks Tim Jones

 

you'll probably only need 2nd and third anyway Tim........

 

I have 3 of the aircraft "APEX" u-joints (.750 ID) I will let you have for $40 each. Do with them what you want.

 

That is very generous - they are salty pieces, high quality.

I see what you mean by tight. That ross box actually welds inside a removable piece and becomes the center section of your firewall hoop - i can show you a pic of mine - but that won't be of much use to you as it still puts it right in the way. That shifter is tall. You still have space for clutch pedal and your foot? Man, you move something a quarter inch in one of them and it throws the whole mess right out of whack.

 

Bruce i sent you a PM

 

Yeah it's a nice tight fit, once I'm in this thing I won't be moving around much, Carl We'll have to see how the 2nd gear starts work out, thanks Tim Jones

 

I used a side shift box in scorpion 1 ,which is also just like Bobby Langley did it. What I also got in the deal that he did not do was the use of reverse. I welded a blob on the shifter arms inside to block out first.
Dwrfab Don Ross