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UPDATE: cheep floozy gets wood/ and a stance

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by DIRTYT, Aug 8, 2005.

  1. DIRTYT
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 3,264

    DIRTYT
    Member
    from Warren,MI

    So i set out to get the 31 coupe mocked up today and mock up a frame out of some 2x4's. Started out with a bang this morning. got the front step done in like a half an hour. Then things slowed down when i figured i better get the rear axle in place before i move on.

    I had to cut into the car a bit to get it to sit down where i thought i wanted it. But what i thought and what the ole lady wants are two diffrent things so she got her way since it is her car after all.

    This is my first "hotrod" so if you guys see any thing that i did wrong please let me know so i can change it now while its just in wood before i go wasting a bunch of steel.

    The front and rear axle's are from a 47 lincoln. all complete and all and i scored them cheep. (Let me know what you all think about that front axle seems kinda wide to me?)

    i did a "bleed" style step in the front with the 45 degree cuts stacked. Then the rear i wanted to use the buggy spring. But the spring would of had to come out side of the body to far. I thought that would look bad and i didnt want to have to cut the wheel wells up that bad.

    So now the plan is ladder bars and coil overs. Not super Trad. i know but it will look better in the end. and the car will sit low enough u wont be able to see it any way.

    So in order to get all that rear junk to work i opted for a 15" kick up in the back and the coil overs will just mount to the rear cross bar like ive seen a lot of guys do.

    Then on the front the split bones will go right to the front of the cowl and i think that should look swell since these are the "long" bones..

    And per beatnicks suggestion im not doing a channel since my sub rails are so ***y and stuff. and with these big kick ups i dont have to. i have 4.5" of ground clearance at the lowest point so that should be plenty

    Well here are some shots i took thru out the day.. I played with the stance a bunch. I think i have it just about as good as its going to get. i wanted a little lower but as i said the ole lady makes the rules. and i wanted a reverse rake very slightley but she wanted a slight forward rake. its 1.5" higher at the rear as it sits in the last pic with all 4 tires on it.. all so keep in mind those front tires are not staying but the rear on the p***anger side is the size i want for the back. then some 5.60's on the front.

    Ok ive typed way to much sorry.. look at these damnit!
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Thirdyfivepickup
    Joined: Nov 5, 2002
    Posts: 6,096

    Thirdyfivepickup
    Member

    I like it. Cheap and easy way to mock up!

    Afterwards you can put casters on the frame and push Hack around the neighborhood. Make sure he wears a helmet!! :D

    We did it with Chris50... street luge he called it!
     
  3. Damn- youve ruined three perfectly good 2X4's!:eek:

    WHY-didnt ya just use metal?:D [dumb question]
     
  4. DIRTYT
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 3,264

    DIRTYT
    Member
    from Warren,MI

    :p That was 7 7 footers il have you know :D but i have one xtra.. now this way i know how much steel to buy and since this is my first frame ive ever made i wanted to screw it up in wood first so i have a template for the steel
     
  5. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 20,257

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    out of curiosity do you have a pick with the spring still on the rear?

    its lookin good, the front looks fine
     
  6. cornfieldrodder
    Joined: Sep 20, 2002
    Posts: 975

    cornfieldrodder
    Member

    Lookin' good Bryan!!!
     
  7. DIRTYT
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 3,264

    DIRTYT
    Member
    from Warren,MI

    no my dumb *** cut the spring off to make the rear fit in my garage better. the shackels were all frozen up so i had to cut the shackels in half.. allmost lost and eye the front one wasnt under any pressure but the rear sure way:D :eek: :rolleyes:

    i could take a pic for you with the spring held in place but that i would have to cut the wheel wells up more.:eek:
     
  8. Flathead Youngin'
    Joined: Jan 10, 2005
    Posts: 3,666

    Flathead Youngin'
    Member

    That looks great, you should do carpentry instead of hot rodding....:)

    Man, isn't lumber expensive right now...........steel is much cheaper to learn with :rolleyes:

    I think it looks great! Thanks for posting, it helped me to understand a few things.....
     
  9. DIRTYT
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 3,264

    DIRTYT
    Member
    from Warren,MI

    least one of us undertstands what im doing. cause im just kinda wingin it here:D But think of it after im done with the mock up frame i can make a sweet soapbox car with a 110" wheel base:D :rolleyes:
     
  10. airkooled
    Joined: Jan 27, 2005
    Posts: 703

    airkooled
    Member
    from Royal Oak

    I don't know if this applies to soapbox cars, but when I was a Cub Scout, we epoxied lead sinkers into the bottom of the Pinewood Derby cars to make them go faster. Put the weights in the rear for maximum potential energy.

    Stance looks good. I still say build the frame out of sewer pipe.
     
  11. DIRTYT
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 3,264

    DIRTYT
    Member
    from Warren,MI

    how about i put some sewer pipe in the back of the wood frame :D

    were out on woodward friday in the bug??? me and 62 wagon thought we saw ya zooming past shell
     
  12.  
  13. DIRTYT
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 3,264

    DIRTYT
    Member
    from Warren,MI

    I think your wife is right. Bring up the back a bit more and put more forward rake to it.

    This mock up with lumber looks like the hot-set-up.[/QUOTE]


    Well in the pic with all 4 tires on it is with the back up higher. Thats about were she is going to sit when all is said and done.. some of the other pics i have the car sitting with the reverse rake and at diff. heights and all...

    Its all about the wood!:D
     
  14. I thought I saw you on Woodward Friday night, didn't have enough time to stop! Had all my kids in the car and we were heading home. Good job with the wood! That's a neat way to plan it out. I'm using a 1935 Ford frame for my Hot rod truck project and dropping a 1947 Ford cab on it. Good luck with it!
     
  15. Unkl Ian
    Joined: Mar 29, 2001
    Posts: 13,509

    Unkl Ian

    No ladder bars on the street.
    Ladder bars are for strip use only.
    Unless you like breaking things.


    A simple 4 link;
    OR a couple trailing arms with a torque arm,
    OR a 3 link,or a triangulated 4 bar,will work just fine.

    If you look hard enough,you should be able to find
    a narrow enough spring for the back.Or just have one made.
     
  16. DIRTYT
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 3,264

    DIRTYT
    Member
    from Warren,MI

    I have springs that will work but they mount near the backing plate. and that is of course on the other side of the body. and in order for it to be able to move freely it would take some cutting to the wheel well. and i thought another hole in the side of the car would look worse then coil overs. As did the "boss" and she makes the rules i just do the work
    I suppose i could fab a bracket to hang off the rear to move the spring inward but coil overs would do just the same would they not?
     
  17. airkooled
    Joined: Jan 27, 2005
    Posts: 703

    airkooled
    Member
    from Royal Oak

    Man, I can't remember Friday night. This is discouraging. I think I was out driving the Beetle. I'll be damned. I didn't see you guys, but there was probably a sweet monster truck parked in front of you or something. I was out there quite a bit Saturday. I tend to buzz past the Shell since it's so crowded, and because I have a girl car.
     
  18. elcornus
    Joined: Apr 8, 2005
    Posts: 652

    elcornus
    Member

    Looks great! I like the pic with the *** up like it is.

    Hey, do you need a visor?
    I remember you offered me your extra tank filler piece, http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=64245 ,but I found one locally.

    I would like to return the good karma, by offering you the extra visor that I have.

    Let me know.


    Eric
     
  19. DIRTYT
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 3,264

    DIRTYT
    Member
    from Warren,MI

    I would like to return the good karma, by offering you the extra visor that I have.

    Let me know.


    Eric[/QUOTE]

    Thanks! but i have a good one. perhaps when i sell my xtra cowl i have some one will need your visor since i only have one... But shoot a price to me in a pm any way if you get a chance i may just pick it up to have it.
     
  20. xadamx
    Joined: Apr 18, 2003
    Posts: 1,170

    xadamx
    Member

    Looks familiar...keep posting progress shots!

    Adam
     

    Attached Files:

  21. farna
    Joined: Jul 8, 2005
    Posts: 1,311

    farna
    Member

    If the frame's gonna look like that last pic (I know it's not yours) when done, I'd go with a torque arm or torque tube and panhard rod. I ran short ladder bars in my Rambler for a while, 26", with large 70s Chevy lower four link rubber bushings in the front pivots. I boxed the Chevy lower arms and made the bars from them. Fine on a smooth road, but real bouncy on I-10 between Gulfport MS and New Orleans LA! That's one of the most uneven stretches of Interstate there is -- you can tell as soon as you cross the MS/LA border into LA because ofthe waves!! If you go ladders, make them as long as you can, and it don't look like you got much room. No room for an angled "truck arm" suspension or I'd say go that route. If you're using the old 46 rear, doesn't it have a torque tube? You can make a mount for the TT pivot on the trans crossmember, or make another CM just for it. I'd use an open drive conversion and make a torque arm bracket to bolt to the front of the rear axle though. Run the arm up the driveshaft tunnel to pivot on the ****** CM. A Chevy Camaro stamped steel arm should be heavy enough. Will be light and fit close to the drive shaft, but you'll need lower control arms to keep the axle in. Make a heavier arm with a bolt through pivot and the arm itself can hole the axle in place just like a torque tube, but you might need a bigger shaft tunnel.
     
  22. Fender
    Joined: Dec 27, 2004
    Posts: 28

    Fender
    BANNED
    from Detroit,MI

    Nice stance. But ladder bars and coil overs on a Lincoln banjo? Whats next, heartbeat stripes over the bare metal body? Could be a cool car if you can stay focused.

    And I did see your car on Woodward if its that lumpy black one in the back ground. Saw it at the Shell gas station near 13 mile along with a black roadster, a brown Chevy and a convertible a month ago maybe. Did you give up on that one to build this?
     
  23. ian
    Joined: Aug 6, 2005
    Posts: 781

    ian
    Member

    After you're done with the mock-up, you should make an all wood soap box racer.:p
     
  24. DIRTYT
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 3,264

    DIRTYT
    Member
    from Warren,MI


    Its called multi tasking some people can walk and chew gum at the same time. dont you worry about when my Chevy will get done. If your concerned about people driving cars that are not done yet then your in the wrong place.
     
  25. Termite delight! And a great way to help you visualize the steel one you're gonna build!

    Sam.
     
  26. stickylifter
    Joined: Feb 21, 2005
    Posts: 1,299

    stickylifter
    Member
    from Detroit

    "You see all you do is walk up and grab the guys nuts! well you know with authoritey" :D


    HAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAH!!!!!!! You remembered that?!?!?!
    BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH!!!!!!!!
     
  27. flatheadpete
    Joined: Oct 29, 2003
    Posts: 10,669

    flatheadpete
    Member
    from Burton, MI

    Looks good ya queer. See ya sunday.
     

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