So I guess this is what p***es for a model-specific replacement at oldmoparts.com. Several things piss me off about this (and I'll be shooting them an email too so don't think I am just bushwhacking them on this site). Number one, I called to order the rubbers, to make sure that I got the right part. Someone mentioned that they got universal from these guys, but on the phone they said it was specific to my car. I called back because I had an installation question, and specifically asked again if it was car-specific, and they said yes. Well, whoever had the car before me must have narrowed it about 2 feet, but still managed to keep the original gl***, magic I suppose. So of course because it had to be cut down that is an instant leak spot, and now I need to address that. In addition, which really grinds my gears, is that the rubber is all twisted in the corners, so the gl*** groove does not follow a smooth line. Just frustrating, on top of an already aggravating job. Anyhow, I will be using the "soapy rope", and probably laying a bead of sealer in the groove, because it is clear the gl*** will not just lay in, but does anyone have any tips for the issue with the corners? Just add sealer and hope for the best? Thanks. Oh an all the duct tape is because since the rubber is too long, there is no pressure on it, so it keeps falling off the lip.
The research I was doing indicated that it is less treacherous to install the rubber first. Either way, the corners would be an issue.
this seems more than a rant. if you want help. just saying model specific doesn't say much. need to know what make,model and year. parts you ordered, and from who. I will say if you're working with a mopar and you bought from andy. it probably won't work with out modification
The rant was not the important part, I should have put that at the end. It is what it is, the real question is will I have more than the usual trouble getting the gl*** in? And it is a 55 Plymouth Belvedere.
Im not a plymouth guy, but by the way yours looks, you need to put the rubber on the gl***, trim it to the correct length leaving some extra on to allow for shrinkage and then super glue the joints back together. reinstall it on the gl***, roll in the rope, situate the gl*** in the opening equally and roll in the rubber, bumping an seating as you go. as far as the corners, sometimes some black urethane to make the rubber stick to the gl*** will do the job to get rid of the rubber fit issue..if its the seal to body your having issues with in the corners, gl*** thats undersized will sometimes be the culprit..
In my experience with using rubber kits, the rubber is put on the windshield and then roped into the cars frame. As the gl*** seats, it'll lay in flat. Since it's a universal rubber, cut and glue at the joint. In some cases, if the rubber is cut correctly, as in length, you can get away with not gluing the ends. Take a breather and look at it. You'll see what I mean. The way you have it, with the rubber taped to the frame, will not work or at best be a pain in the ***.
slddnmatt, post #6 above, hit it exactly right. I have found that best and easiest "rope" is window sash cord. Lightly lube the rubber, sit inside, pull the rope, have a friend stand outside and have him gently (maybe slightly more than gently) tap on the gl***, following you, as the sash pulls the rubber into plate. Go slow and be deliberate, but not heavy handed. As I recall, this was MANY years ago, I used Vasoline as a lube FOR THE GL*** INSTALLATION!! Jeesh!!
You should have used KY, ha ha. Thanks for the help fellas, I should have taken that deep breath before I posted originally. Instead, I rolled in all sweaty and mad after getting the rubber on the lip, and sounded off. The tape was just to hold the rubber until I could get it looped around and glued together, so if all goes well I can just carefully seat the gl***, as is (the tape is not necessary any more), or I'll just pull it off and install it on the gl*** in the more traditional manner. I am still annoyed that this all could have been mentioned when I bought the stuff, would have saved me a lot of grief, and I still would have bought it anyway, still way cheaper than Steele.
Just a bit of info, Roberts motor parts sells the same type of window rubbers. Mine was for a two piece windshield and was no fun to put in at all. But now that it's in it looks pretty good.... After all that hard work it should, right?
i've put in dozens of windshields and NEVER tried to put the rubber on the metal and force the gl*** into it. even put in new two-piece in my a100 van, where i had to use locking strip in the groove. that doesn't mean i don't get pissed when i can't get it first try.
there are different type of gaskets. yours is called a loc-strip rubber and you are correct it goes on the body then install the gl***. my suggestion is get rid of the soap and clean the body and the gasket. heat is your friend. this time of year I put the gasket in the sun, winter I use a deep sink full of hot water. I like to start (to hide the joint) behind a windshield wiper. if you use 1 inch masking tape you can leave it on till after the gl*** is in . it will tear as needed. as you install the gasket always push backwards to keep from stretching it. push it tight into the corners (don't worry if it rolls a bit) it will straighten out when the gl*** is in. when you get back to the joint cut it about 3/8 inch long and force it in. that will save you from filling a gap when its finished. I do this by myself all the time but suggest you enlist at least one friend. I have suction cups. hook tool (cotter pin remover) and a flat plastic stick (old days we called them bones which was most likely what was used before plastic) it's real basic to install, but this type of gasket like to roll in or out till you get it all in. if it rolls in a light pressure on the inside to center it. to start, now you can spray a soapy water on the groove that the gl*** sits in. if you are on the left side of the car start slipping the bottom right corner of the gl*** in about six inches from the right corner. after your friend gets about 6-8 inches in the groove slide it to the right corner. get it in about 2-3 inches up the right pillar (NO MORE AT THIS TIME) then work across the bottom putting pressure towards the right side. work around the left corner till you get 8-10 inches up the left side. (If you go to far you cause the right side to bind) then go back to the right side and work the top corner in. then the top left corner. then work which ever side is the easiest across the top. if you have any questions don't pm me. ask me on the thread this is good info
have you got a sectional pic of rubber as im a time served windscreen fitter and can tell instantly for the side section wether its a gl*** or body fitting .
these mopars are strange, they use a loc-strip like the old jags but the loc strip goes on the inside and there is a flange for the stainless on the outside. I have 47 years in the gl*** business and do nothing but old cars, exotics and kit cars. pretty much all the BS jobs the younger (make that smarter) installers won't touch
i love working on old cars, my mate has a 1960 catalina on which i have to do the rear window remove/refit very soon im really looking forward to doing it. not many people will touch old cl***ics where i live especially american stuff
just got done replacing all the gl*** on a 60 pontiac catalina that is going to sweden. all smoke grey gl*** including the back gl***, the windshields are now available in grey also. the same legal grey as Lexas and Mercedes
Very cool, and this is definitely a 2 man job, if I try to set the gl*** myself I can tell it will crack. Should I still cut and glue the rubber, or should heat be enough to work it out? I was just thinking that I wished there was a way to soften the rubber, because the rear gl*** has much sharper corners, so the issue is even worse.
Is it possible to maybe use a hair dryer? I'm not sure if that would provide enough heat on the thick rubber, but it would be real useful for heating spots as necessary.
I think you'll be surprised how much of that corner puckering will disappear when the window is correctly installed. Probably almost all will be gone. Heat, oil and other things are not good for rubber products. Soap and water work well for lubricant when installing the window.
This is more than puckering, I think, it is pretty twisted, and the back gl*** has even sharper corners so it won't even come close to staying on the gl***. I do need to get a 2nd set of hands on it though, it is definitely holding me back working by myself.
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