Tri-Power Fuel Blocks - Where Shall I mount?

Ever since I started building my car, I've wanted to run tri-power, but never had the money for a 3 deuce set up. I've had to turn down multiple deals because i just didn't have the money when the deal came along. But recently, i came across one that was too good to let go, and picked up on it. After some cleaning and rebuilding - I'm about ready to roll with it.

I'm trying to figure out where and how i should mount the fuel block. Any recommendations? Do's and do nots? Pics of where its mounted and where the lines are ran?

My initial thought was to mount it to the firewall, but since I'm running a mechanical fuel pump, having to backtrack the fuel line to the firewall seems unnecessary.

Suggestions? Pics? Critical statments stating that I'm a dumb***?

 

I like to run the fuel log right beside the linkage with a fuel pressure gauge right there too. It's clean and nice looking but a fuel block on the firewall is pretty damn traditional. If you're running a Mechanical fuel pump then having the log right besides the linkage will actually work really well.

 

Here's what I did. Lots of guys don't like running rubber fuel lines but I've had Tri- Power on most of my cars for over 40 years and never had a problem, ever. Hard line from the tank to the firewall, rubber up to the fuel regulater and three rubber lines from the fuel block.

 

Would mounting the fuel block somehow to the front of the engine block, then running lines to the carbs from there look funny? Seems like it'd be easily done, but I'm afraid that it'll look goofy.

I keep going back to mounting it against the firewall.

 

Is there really any problem with running a mechanical fuel pump and have the fuel block on the firewall? I was planning on mounting mine to the fire wall. Along with the fuel filter/regulator.

 

I vote for firewall

 

Firewall it is. Just waiting for my new distributor to come in. Thats all i'm lacking right now.

Timing couldn't be any better...the quadrajet in the '51 needs some work, and I currently have a nearly brand new Edelbrock on the '27. Whole intake and carb will be moved to the '51, and she'll be running like a champ. And will have an intake and a carb sitting and waiting for the next project to come along.

Is this how hoarding starts???

 

Will you be using a mechanical fuel pump?

 

Here's mine, it's in-line with the fuel line.

 

I just saw the thread, and it looks like you have already settled on a spot; so this post is just informational.

I like to make the aftermarket line resemble factory.

Chevrolet used side inlet on the 1959~1961 348 units; with the 4-way mounted to the p***enger side of the center, and hard lines going from the 4 way to each end and the center. The supply came into the 4-way as well.

This is the only tripower I can think of that had three side mounts. Most either had three front mounts; or two side mounts (ends) and a front mount for the center.

Very easy to bend hard lines; and in my eye the hard line looks more professional. I personally believe them to be safer (no offense meant to an earlier poster that uses the soft lines).

Jon.

 

Yeah, Jeffrey mentioned it, then after seeing that in G***ers photos, I see what you mean and am now leaning that way. Already bought a mountable fuel block and the red clear hose (which is starting to seem a little cheezy in hindsight)...may have to return them and just get a standard fuel log and run steel lines. Would be cleaner, and simpler by not having to back track to the firewall from the mechanical fuel pump.

 

It all depends on the year of the build for me. I have a few of the fuel blocks for 3 deuces that were commonly mounted on the firewall. By the 60s a hexagonal fuel "log" was a common hot rod accessory. I fell in love with them in the 60s for my era build. That's what I'm using on my 56 Ford early sixties build. Only one is hooked up currently due to the new engine start up. It'll get fixed when I work all the bugs out of it. Nothing says early 60s to me more than an aluminum hexagon fuel log. This is a rare one in that it was originally drilled for a 3 deuce setup. Most were for the 6 deuces set up and require plugs. It is plumbed with hard line up to the log and only has hose from the log to the carbs.



The second one down is the one I'm using on the 56.



My old Fenton 3 deuce manifold even had mounts cast into the intake for the hexagonal log style fuel block. Notice the upright mount. A hexagon fuel log lies perfectly between this one and the one closer to the front of the engine.

 

Sorry for the ****ty pic but this is how I did mine. You can see where the ends of the fuel line are is where the fuel block is...

 

I too wanted the fuel block on the fire wall and am using a mechanical pump.
It looks a little odd, but I don't care.

Note the fuel lines on the side of the block.

I know that they make a special hard fuel line for the holleys with the right spacing, but I really wanted to use the fuel block.

 

I like them inline on the same side as the carb inlets. Your tri power carbs seem to have inlets on the mechanical pump side, and an inline on that side would make plumbing clean and easy.
I'm running an electric, but ran the lines up the p***. side, and right past my blockoff plate, so same as it would be on a mechanical. If you firewall mount it you'll need some sort of flexible line between the engine and the firewall, and firewall to carbs.
I hard piped mine, but ran a short rubber line from my frame mounted regulator to the fuel block:

 

Fuel block on the firewall with flexible hoses to the carbs was common practice until about 1957. After some disastrous flywheel explosions the NHRA imposed new safety regs including ****tershields and a change in fuel line routing. No more fuel blocks on the firewall because of the danger of being torn off.

 

The only concerns I have about mounting one to the intake, like some of the ones shown are done, is vapor lock. I am thinking about doing the log for my Olds tripower setup like those, but with the temps here in Florida in the Summer, not sure how that would work out. Have any of you who have used them had any problems that way ?

Don

 

heres mine

 

Thanks what wooden clothes hangers are for! I've thought about the whole vapor lock thing with me running it along the intake like that. If I have problems I'm gonna have to change it.

 

I know that I'm in the minority here but I don't believe in vapor lock. I too was told that I had a vapor lock problem but it turned out to be a bad coil. I'm sure it must have existed because of all the hype. I just don't believe that it is as prevalent as it is trumped up to be. A coil with hair line cracks in the windings will give the same symptoms as vapor lock. Close pins and aluminum foil did not cure my vapor lock problems. Icing the coil with a CO2 fire extinguisher cured it immediately.

 

...

 

Well...this was done a few weeks ago, but haven't been able to get rid of all of the gremlins yet.

I haven't done any real engine work before outside of changing the cam out a couple of times. So this is all new grounds for me. Relied on my father-in-law heavily in rebuilding these and getting them hooked up. But finally got them mounted. I decided that I wanted to run steel line, but never got around to ordering a new fuel block, and had a hard time finding the fittings I needed to run steel lines. Finally got some time to work with my FIL in putting this on and I got impatient and decided to jsut work with what I had and ran with it. He suggested that I put it on the firewall, but I opted to not do that going for a more clean look.

Had some issues with the carbs flooding out badly....turns out that I had a bad float in one of the carbs (float had a hole in it), and another was questionable, so I finally got a couple new floats over the weekend and put them in and it seems to have stopped my flooding issue.

However, the car just still isn't running quite right and I'm not sure where to go with it now. It doesn't run as "smooth" as it did before (as smooth as you can with my cam). I don't know how to describe it, but it just isn't right. Also, it hesitates a bit at start, and if you get on it, it tries to die most of the time....spits, and sputters a bit, and flat out loses all power - even if you put your foot to the floor...but as soon as you let off the gas its fine again. Every now and then when you get on it, it goes, but most of the time it struggles.

With that being said, i put a few miles on it yesterday - its certainly driveable, but I do smell gas while driving and idling at redlights. But the carbs are not leaking. I'm not sure if this is a fuel delivery problem or a timing issue (but if i smell gas its probably fuel delivery). It doesn't seem like timing as the car cranks up without any problems and idles well....can rev it up in park/neutral and sounds good (only slight hesitation at first). But in gear, is when it has the most issues.

I'm not sure if i'm getting too much fuel and its killing my fire, or if i'm getting too little fuel on the center carb causing the hesitation....but if i can smell gas, I tend to think its the former.

I will say that when it does decide to go...its a lot of fun feeling the other 2 carbs kick in. I was surprised to feel them kick in like they did. Almost scared me the first time.


This is getting a bit long winded. Sorry. Please remember that I'm terribly new to this game - be gentle. Any advise or direction? Is this even possible to do over the internet and with the little (and probably vague) information that I gave?

 

I had trouble with the fuel lines right over the headers on the Offy Tri-Power Six. The Offy linkage and fuel line kit included steel lines, compression fittings as well as the flared Holley carb inlets. I bent some pre fitted brake lines for less header heat exposure:



have fun

 

I may have missed it, are you running progressive linkage or 1:1 linkage?

 

Judging by the pics it does look progressive.

 

Here is how Ford did it on the 390/406 3x2 set ups.

 

Try looking on E-Bay there is a setup on there that looks pretty traditional for a reasonable price.

 

As you already found out - it is progressive. Didn't mean to cause any confusion in this thread - probably should have started another. I already have the intake and carbs and they are already rebuilt and put on the car. Just running into operating probelms with them.

 

"hesitates a bit at start, and if you get on it, it tries to die most of the time....spits, and sputters a bit, and flat out loses all power - even if you put your foot to the floor...but as soon as you let off the gas its fine again. Every now and then when you get on it, it goes, but most of the time it struggles."
IMHO, it sounds like you are struggling with linkage issues. Tuning multiple carbs is time consuming but worthwhile. Watch what your linkage is doing when you operate the throttle. The ratio of front and rear carb linkage need to be sorted. I would begin with removing the alternator wiring that is attached to the front linkage. Don't hinder the linkage movement with any unnecessary attachments.
Then remove the front and rear linkage, adjust them so they are equal length, then re-insert the linkage onto the carbs. Now, you can fine tune the front and rear action.
See what I mean ?
All the best,
Dale
Cleveland OH

 

Here is mine no issues so far