August 2012 banger meet

Has any one overhere experience with 5" dropped arms on 4" drop I-beam on a original 32 ch***is/wishbones with 4banger setup as the steering arm, put above the wishbones, gets against the front crossmember and oilpan at full loads. So i thought to install 5" dropped arms and go under the wishbone, but they are not available here in Belgium. So i needs some advice before ordering them abroad.
A other option is to go throu the wishbones, but this will have to wait to find out, as i'm recovering from a knee protese and have the second one installed in a couple of weeks.
Hope to hear a possible solution...
Greetz, Fil

 

If you are into this forum and bangers, you might find this ebay site interesting.
Ron
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_nkw=antique+motor

 

Has anyone else found new cast iron brake drums to be way undersize and need machining?

 

I bought rear drums from Mel Gross and after putting them on the hubs he recommends turning to true them to the hub.

 

240 with an "A" block, take a ride! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5np5XvEaBPI&feature=plcp

Not sure if they have cast iron drums

 

I'm glad the rear view camera didn't fall off........

That's a wonder video. Thank You Bill

 

I kept waiting for some one to post it. It was on the A Ford Barn. The original thread also had some interesting information.

 

Just got done with my '26 T Roadster's first "shakedown run".....1,732 miles to Bonneville for "Speed Week"...







The new T mill ran out flawlessly with the twin 81's and liked to cruise at 55-60 mph all day long.



Check our epic journey thread here:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=727004&highlight=mrmodelt

 

Just plain cool

 

Cool Clayton - I've been running one of those cast manifolds on the B engine in the Tourer. Nice n' quiet but I can't use it with the A engine that's going back in as that has an oil filter block right in the way now...

 

Took a ride i the A today while my friend filmed. It's OK to be childish even if you're old...<object type="application/x-shockwave-flash" data="http://www.flickr.com/apps/video/stewart.swf?v=109786" cl***id="clsid<img src=" images="" smilies="" biggrin.gif"="" alt="" ***le="Big Grin" smilieid="3" cl***="inlineimg" border="0" height="225" width="400">



<embed type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://www.flickr.com/apps/video/stewart.swf?v=109786" bgcolor="#000000" allowfullscreen="true" flashvars="intl_lang=en-us&photo_secret=c318015f0e&photo_id=7840494536" height="225" width="400"></object>
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Wico mag instructions.

Thought I would share this, some one was posting regarding new start up. This might help.

 

Regarding post #98

Awesome --to use an overworked word-- but what other word fits?

Clayton--I take my hat off to you---

Herb

 

Help
I'm installing a new cam and head on my model A engine, I not sure about setting the cam timing to the distributor. I hoping I set the oil pump drive gear at the same as it was before I pulled the cam. I'm using a B distributor,so how will I know if thing are all lined up right and the timing will be set right.

Thank you for any help you guys can give me on this, Mike

 

Did you set the engine to TDC on # 1 before you pulled the distributor out?

.

 

Crazydaddyo
I did not , I line the cam and crankshaft gears dot to dot.
Mike

 

You did that before the Dist was pulled?


.

 

Crazydaddyo
Yes

 

If you marked the Dist. before you pulled it out, then just put the dist back in the way it came out.

If not, then you will have to put the drive gear in before you move the engine to TDC so that it engages with the oil pump.
Then bring everything to TDC. Do this before you put the head back on so that you can verify TDC. Install the head. Then time the distributor per normal instructions.

.

 

Crazydaddyo
Thank you I will do that, but what is the normal time the distributor instructions ?
Mike

 

Adjusting Engine Timing

1. Before adjusting the engine timing, ensure that the breaker point contacts are in good shape and the gap is set to .016 - .020 inches. Also, verify that the rotor gap to the distributor body contact points is between .030 to .035 inches.
2. Turn ignition key off.
3. Place gear shift lever in neutral position.
4. Fully retard spark lever on the steering column.
5. Screw out timing pin located in timing gear cover and insert opposite end of pin into the timing pin hole.
6. With starting crank, turn the engine over slowly while at the same time pressing in firmly on the timing pin. When the piston #1 reaches the top of the stroke, the timing pin will drop into a small recess in the timing gear.
7. Remove the distributor cap, body, and rotor, and loosen the distributor cam locking screw until cam can be turned.
8. Connect a test light probe between the breaker point arm and an engine ground.
9. Turn ignition switch on.
10. Turn cam in counter clockwise direction until the breaker points are fully open (light comes on), then slowly turn the cam back in a clockwise directions until the points just close (light goes off). Next lock the cam by securely tightening the cam locking screw. Be careful not to move cam position, while tightening the screw.
11. Slowly pull down on spark advance lever. The test lamp should come on (points open) when the lever is about 3/4 down. Sometimes steps must be repeated until distributor cam is properly set.

 

Sorry, just saw that you were using a B dist.

The B has a tab on the side to adjust the breaker point timing. set it in the middle befor you set the timing, then when you have the timing close, the use it to do the fine tuning (step 11).


You can also skip step 4,5, & 6 because you already have it at TDC.

It would be wise to mark your TDC on the crank pulley now, so that it is easier to set in the future and so that you can use a timing light to set the static timing.

.
.

 

Thank you Crazydadyo for your help and time.
Mike

 

Picked up 2 strombergs today.
The markings are not the same but they are off a buddy's running V8.
He picked up some new 97s
I am new to strombergs so this should be fun

 

Great score on the 81's



.

 

Nice score! 81's aren't easy to come by. If you need them rebuilt, contact Max Musgrove, Uncle Max here on the H.A.M.B.

..He does GORGEOUS work..and they are perfect!

..Heck, he did my 81's!

 

Posted this on my kinda build thread of the latest jalopy. It's a short, fairly dull, journey from town to home. filmed by a friend on his phone so a bit shaky but the the first few seconds tickled me with the straight cut gears whining. Just a pleasant summer evening. I've fixed the loose squeaky steel floor panel now....

 

Sweet!!! Thanks for the ride even if it was on the wrong side of the road.

 

My computer crashed the other day and Idon't know if I will be able to retrieve all that is lost. If my name is in your address book , please send me an e-mail so that I can add yours to mine. Thanks, Ron

 

have some news for you banger-philes. we managed to bump the v4f/gl record from 135 to 150 mph at bonneville last week. we were already the fastest naturally aspirated model b flathead at 140 mph in the fuel cl*** but we're now running efi (blasphemy, i know) and with a good tune up managed to run 10 mph faster than we ever have before PLUS we didn't kill the motor like we usually do. i tuned it fat and kept it happy and it stayed together.

we did this with the stock two intake ports... no four ports for us. also did it with an original (and very cracked) cast iron winfield head. we managed to break our stock 3 main crank on the dyno after 50+ pulls so we swapped it out for a billet 5 main **** crank but only used 3 mains. also ran some super duper carrillo rods and our usual used pistons. lots of magical **** going on with the electronics that i'm sure no one hear really cares to hear about.

anyways, we went pretty fast and thought you might be interested in hearing about it. future plans include turbo and eventually a new streamliner... shooting for 200 mph with a stock block two port flathead. wish us luck.

vidoes: http://www.youtube.com/user/nateANDalli99