Another shoebox suspension question

Next time I would work off stock pedal parts. I did not have any stock brake parts with this car. The car was totally taken apart when I bought it. I don't have a hoist to get a good shot from under the car but I can shoot one showing how it still hangs below the frame and the skid plate I built. It was all done in place with the body on so no good photos after it was done were taken. I think I would have not used a booster in this case had I done the Fab work in the first place myself.
The Wizzard

 

A side shot would be great, just to put things in perspective.

I talked to ECI again this morning, and the kits I listed above do not have a power booster. They claim (their words, not mine) that the MC sits "a touch below the cross member."

Of course, I asked "What's a touch? An inch?"

Reply was "Oh no, MAYBE a 1/4 of an inch."

If that's true, I could live with it and modify the bracket or build a skid plate like you did. However, real world experience means a lot more to me than a manufacturer's claim. I'm very grateful for your input!

Anyone else done the ECI MC swap with positive results?

 

So after what I did the skid plate is 1&1/4" below the frame. Without a booster it would not be a problem. I tilted the booster/master to get a better line from pedal to booster putting the wire bails for the master lid about 1/4" below the floors. The booster can is right against the floor. I should have never tried to do power brakes under the floor.
The Wizzard

 

One thing I have learned over the years, doing it cheap ends up costing you more in aggravation and making it work right. Spend the money and do it right the first time.
You talk about cutting it up but wanting to keep it original. No such thing with what you want to accomplish. Do it right and make it look original. Thats the key.
Also, the older gents that replied here have a wealth of knowledge, listen to them, they know what they are talking about. Thanks guys for for the education.

 

Thanks Wizzard, that helps a LOT!

And Grego is absolutely right. There's nothing wrong with cutting up a car, clip or not, just do it COMPLETELY right. There's no excuse for ****py work, and it will make ALL of the difference in the end result!

 

Ive heard of some guys using a Willwood master cylinder, with a bigger bore I think, And running no power booster and having almost the same pedal as they would with power brakes.Has anyone had any experience with this or is it just a myth? If this did work it might be the answer to the space problem under the shoebox body.

 

Just to clear the air too, I am not against clipping a car, I was just trying to see what my options were as far as the stock suspension was concerned. I knew all of you guys have done all this stuff before that im beginning to do, and I REALLY appreciate all the help you guys have given so far. When I get started on this project I'll do a build thread and I would really appreciate your guys opinions and advice!

 

Just so you know. On my 50 that is in my avatar, I rebuilt the king pins, ordered the caster kit from jamco that flips the upper arm mount around so it is easier to adjust camber and caster, rebuilt all four drum brakes, new rubber lines at the corners, adjusted the front and rear brake shoes correctly( get the green bible and learn how to do it properly), then I installed lowering springs and Jamco's big front sway bar.
The car stops very good for a drum car, was easy to align and rides and steers good for a 60 some year old car. Sure i could clip it or do other stuff to make it ride soft and plush but I have other cars for that. When I have more time and money plus more room in the shop, it'll get a frame off and a whole lot more goodies but in the mean time, I drive it.
Cost about $250 for all the brake stuff and the camber kit.
Again do it right and don't cheap out and it will be safe and shouldn't give you any problems. Then you can save your money for more expensive parts and still be driving your car around.
My biggest piece of advice I can give, try and keep your car road ready so you can drive it anytime. A car sitting there waiting to be worked on seems to stay that way. Work on it like it is your daily driver. Nothing puts a bigger grin on my face than driving my cars around.

 

Does anyone know about the willwood brake thing I posted about a couple posts back???

 

btt, willwood brakes?

 

If you pick the size of the bore and the pedal ratio properly then manual brakes can be very good.

Using a power brake pedal ratio with manual would give high effort and poor performance.

Off the top of my head manual ratio is 6 to 1. Power 4 to 1.

 

Thanks, I thought that was what I heard but was'nt sure, has anyone done this to combat the space problem under the shoebox with success?

 

bump

 

Looks like you're going to have to go this alone, but that's what hot rodding is all about.

 

Personally I think clips never look right and I have seen very few of them done right. I can usually spot a clipped car from half a block away, most people never seem to center the clip to the wheel wells proper or the tires stick out too far. One thing you can do is graft the ball joint arm onto the end of your existing A-arm when you do this you can also notch it up higher so you get some drop(poor mans drop) personally I think its safer than a welded dropped upright even though Ive never seen one fail it just doesn't look safe to me(one weld breaks and there goes everything). search here for Z-d A Arms Theres also an article in the newest Rod and Custom that shows them grafting an A Arm. I Z-d my A- Arms on my 54 chevy to lower the front I didn't make a jig but I measeured everything a few times and welded in lots of support. I also agree with the others that say stick with the drums, I can lock up my drums no problem but tire sliding with bias plys can be sketchy. oh and newer aint always better ball joints pop out when worn! oh one more thing Grease the **** out of your front end it makes a world of difference

 

www.shoeboxford.com the guys on there can and will be of great help to answer and advise the direct you should go in.

 

Thanks for all the help guys, Ill be getting started on it soon and you guys are a huge help!