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Glass Bodies and thier superstructure Advice

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Chopped50Ford, Aug 12, 2005.

  1. Chopped50Ford
    Joined: Feb 16, 2003
    Posts: 5,854

    Chopped50Ford
    Alliance Vendor

    I know a few guys out there are using gl*** bodies for thier rides.

    ARe there any picts of the metal structure that holding this stuff from wobbling like a leaf in the wind?

    Example: Like a roadster body mainly. How did you build the subframe, inner structure around the rear, cowl and doors.

    Any help is greatly appreciated.
     
  2. raven
    Joined: Aug 19, 2002
    Posts: 4,707

    raven
    Member

    I have a gl*** body for my '27 t roadster. I bought it from sacrliner (choprods bro). They had installed a cage lower structure similar to what you see in a stock car, with a simple single hoop behind the driver. I don't have ny pics with at this time, but they said they put it in case of some dip T-boning them.
    I am presently building a floor substructure to mount it on the T frame with.
    r
     
  3. i think the way beatnik did his is pretty groovy. thats what i was gonna do.
    maybe he has some pics of the bare ch***is.

    if not steel, there are other methods..
     
  4. mule
    Joined: May 24, 2004
    Posts: 300

    mule
    Member

    I have this for when i gl*** jugheads 32 coupe hope they help
     

    Attached Files:

  5. Nick32vic
    Joined: Jul 17, 2003
    Posts: 3,064

    Nick32vic
    Member

    Different companies are making some incredible glue nowadays. My dad and I used this stuff that glues metal to fibergl***.

    First we made plates that are about 4"x6" We glued them to the floor in 6 places where 6 body bolts go: 2 on the floor under the a-pillars. 2 on the floor under the b-pillars. Then 2 in the back of the car (2 means 1 on the p***enger side and 1 on the driver side.)

    Then we started building the 1"x1" square tubing up, from these body mount plates. Tubing goes up each a-pillar and each b-pillar so the striker and the hinges are all bolted to steel.

    It is basically like a cage all welded together and glued to fibergl***. It is actually alot more rigid and durable than you might think it would be.

    Im gonna get some better pictures of it tomorow with my new camera.

    Nick
     

    Attached Files:

  6. pimpin paint
    Joined: May 31, 2005
    Posts: 4,937

    pimpin paint
    Member
    from so cal

    Hey Chopped,

    Check out Westsott's and the Speedway catalogs for some ideas they
    use ta secure their gl*** bodies.

    Congrats on the Rat starter kit/gl*** tee ya bought from Altered....if
    it sat on the list another day I'd probably half ta have grabbed it.
     
  7. Chopped50Ford
    Joined: Feb 16, 2003
    Posts: 5,854

    Chopped50Ford
    Alliance Vendor

    I watched it for a while contemplating to buy it...sometimes the itch wont go away. :)
     
  8. Gasserfreak
    Joined: Aug 31, 2004
    Posts: 1,347

    Gasserfreak
    Member
    from Yuma, AZ


    That couldn't be any more true when working with gl***.
     
  9. Heres some reinforcement in my 3W. There are a requirement for registration in Oz....you can see the beef inside , under the dash, behind the seat , even in the doors !! You'd need a tubing bender/oxy to do a sano job; 1" square tubing has been used in the case.

    Hope this helps...
     
  10. Heres some reinforcement in my 3W. There are a requirement for registration in Oz....you can see the beef inside , under the dash, behind the seat etc. You'd need a tubing bender/oxy to do a sano job; 1" square tubing has been used in the case.

    Hope this helps...

    Rat
     

    Attached Files:

  11. Chopped50Ford
    Joined: Feb 16, 2003
    Posts: 5,854

    Chopped50Ford
    Alliance Vendor

    That helps out alot....It looks like all of the side/long panels got the "criss cross" supports and all the turns in the body...sounds easy enough. The floor, after the subframe is made, can be "glued" or mounted to body brackets made.
     

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