your local machine shop will do it, but as both HAMBers above advise, this is a DIY project if you take your time - measure twice, cut once, thread carefully. dj
What length do you need? Before the LARS Show, I went to The Early Ford Store, in San Dimas, Ca. A worker there showed me various lengths (28'-31.5") of radiator support rods in SS, Cad, and mild steel. I needed 43" lengths for my "Special Construction" build. So I cut , added, welded, filed to fit.
Working (threading, tapping, cutting, etc.) with stainless is a *****. As mentioned above go with aluminum or a stainless sleeve over rod.
satin, polished, ultra polished, knurled?? pick a size, cut , thread, screw in a hiem joint and start braggin. http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-stainless-steel-hollow-tubing/=j5dqno
Yeah I have to have at least 36" or more. My front carbs are in the way so I have to go between them and then out. My front crossmember is 2" forward and im on a 32 frame so that gains about another 3"
When I needed to lengthen mine after moving the radiator forward I welded a carriage bolt to one end,worked like a champ.
Use centerless ground type 303 stainless rod. It will cut and thread as easliy as mild steel. The centerless ground finish is shiny as is, and will polish out without a lot of effort on a buffing wheel. The regular cold drawn or mill finish stuff takes a bunch of surface work to get it anywhere near a polished finish, and will make you wish you'd spent the few extra bucks for the ground stock. Search for type 303 stainless rod at http://mcmaster.com
Working w/ stainless is not difficult , next time use "never seize" as a lubricant, doesn't "boil off" or drip !! dave