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32 steering arm questions

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by mtd, Sep 5, 2012.

  1. mtd
    Joined: May 29, 2005
    Posts: 399

    mtd
    Member
    from FL

    I am running a stock 32 box on my 32 roadster with 32 heavy axle 4" drop and 37-41 spindles,with bolt on droparms. i just had my steering box rebuilt by early v8 garage. Richard informed me that using the "hoop style" steering arm is not as good as the original setup because the original steering arm puts the drag link 3/4" ahead of the axle center. What i am looking for is pics or info on modifying a "hoop"style arm to move the drag link connection 3/4" foward. Thanks in advance for your input.
     
  2. i need one too for my roadster. the stock one is kind of a bent shape that fallows the stock drop of the axel and has a ball on the end for the drag link.
     
  3. DICK SPADARO
    Joined: Jun 6, 2005
    Posts: 1,887

    DICK SPADARO
    Member Emeritus

    If you guys are using a traditional style front drum brake car might find that using the stock 32-4 spindles will greatly improve the steering of your car as well as eliminate the need to fabricate something new to work correctly with the original side steer box. The stock spindles have the drag link arm in the correct position and the steering arms do not have to be bent to clear the wishbones so the steer rate stays constant.
    By reaming a 7* taper half way into the bottom side of the tie rod and drag link spindle eyes you can reverse the position of the links from a top mount to a bottom mount. This gets the drag link angle reduced to help the bump steer and the tie rod to frame clearance increased to prevent it from rubbing on the cross member. Some spindle to hub spacers and and king pin modification and you are ready to roll.

    Cant do it with disc brake car until some one makes a disc bracket that bolts to the narrow style spindle backing plate bolt pattern.
     
  4. 2935ford
    Joined: Jan 6, 2006
    Posts: 3,850

    2935ford
    Member

    ****,

    With that, you also have to deal with the backing plate holes not lining up?
    Then maybe you're ready to roll, yes?
     
  5. mtd
    Joined: May 29, 2005
    Posts: 399

    mtd
    Member
    from FL

    Can someone explain why the drag link connection should be 3/4" ahead of center ? Thanks
     
  6. Dak Rat
    Joined: Mar 8, 2006
    Posts: 576

    Dak Rat
    Member
    from NoDak

    I believe it has something to do with where the gears in the steering box mesh when the car is going straight ahead. I saw something about it over on the ford barn. Maybe its not important if your not running a stock steering box. I'm speculating here.
     
  7. mtd
    Joined: May 29, 2005
    Posts: 399

    mtd
    Member
    from FL

    I am running a stock 32 box. I understand that if i were to use a stock 32 drag link (fixed length) with the hoop style steering arm that the box would not be centered when the wheels are straight. But i am using an adjustable drag link (tierod)
    What i don't understand yet is why the drag link connection to the steering arm
    Should be 3/4" foward of axle center.....
     
  8. 3wLarry
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 12,804

    3wLarry
    Member Emeritus
    from Owasso, Ok

    gotta love Spadaro...
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  9. Andy
    Joined: Nov 17, 2002
    Posts: 5,389

    Andy
    Member

    The drag link angles in and so is not parallel to the center line of the car. Ford made the arm on the spindle so it angled forward so a 90 degree angle was made between the arm and the drag link. A new arm on the spindle that is not angled will make the car steer to the left when the steering box is centered. An adjustable drag link will fix it. It is very important to get the steering box centered because you will have slop if not.
     
  10. mtd
    Joined: May 29, 2005
    Posts: 399

    mtd
    Member
    from FL

    So, should I modify the hoop style arm to have the drag link connection 3/4" ahead. Or just use the adjustable drag link, center the box with the wheels straight and don't worry about it?

    I hope I am not sorry that spent the $ to rebuild my stock 32 box versus going to F1......
    There must be others that are running the 32 box with 37-41 spindles ....
     
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2012
  11. Rem
    Joined: Mar 6, 2006
    Posts: 1,257

    Rem
    Member

    I had thought it was because on a left turn the driver-side spindle is on the inside, so needs to turn more than when it is on the outside of a right turn. But your idea makes more sense. Maybe it's a little of both?

    Either way, I agree with **** that the early spindles would be the answer. Hydraulic brakes take a little extra work to mount, and need a spacer 'kit'. If that just isn't an option, maybe one of the Superbell(?) bolt-on steering arms could be modified to do the job - ***uming they're forged and not cast?
     
  12. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 22,673

    alchemy
    Member

    The way I see it, you are only going to "feel" the problem at extreme left and right turns. Like you'll get a right turn 1.5 degrees sharper than a left turn. Is that really worth the worry?

    But, I do plan on using '32 spindles on my next project. :)
     
  13. I too run a dropped axle on my 32 with stock steering box and hoop style bolt on steering arm with 37-41 spindles. I fabricated an adjustable drag link to center everything up and all is fine & well and system performs as intended.
     
  14. Andy
    Joined: Nov 17, 2002
    Posts: 5,389

    Andy
    Member

    It is not worth the h***le to modify the arm. Just adjust the drag link.
    I am staying with the 32 box in my 32. I sold the F-1 boxes I had. I did put in 33-34 gears in the box. I like the way it steers. I did put in a real seal on the sector so I have zero leaks. I am planning an upgrade with 36 right hand gears at some time.
     
  15. mtd
    Joined: May 29, 2005
    Posts: 399

    mtd
    Member
    from FL

    Thanks for the input.
     
  16. 51wagon
    Joined: Oct 1, 2008
    Posts: 169

    51wagon
    Member
    from northwoods

    ANDY,

    "I did put in a real seal on the sector so I have zero leaks."


    Did you find a seal to fit the sector and the stock groove, or did you machine the groove to fit a seal that was close?

    If you found a seal to fit, would you please share the source and part number?

    Thank you.
     
  17. Andy
    Joined: Nov 17, 2002
    Posts: 5,389

    Andy
    Member

    I filled the end of the housing with JB Weld and machined it for a seal. I did not have to cut any metal. The seal is 1 3/8 x 1 1/8 x 1/8.

    The 36 gears did not work out.
     
  18. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 10,773

    krylon32
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Nebraska

    I noticed that some of you on other threads are commenting on the problems with putting later brakes on early 32/34 spindles. If you have the resources, in our shop we've done several conversions using the Lincoln backing plates, hubs and drums from M/T products. It's a bolt on using the hub spacer from Early V8 Garage and the M/T backing plates with the early spindle bolt pattern and minor grinding on the top of the spindle. Excellent brakes and an old timey look.
     
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2012
  19. 51wagon
    Joined: Oct 1, 2008
    Posts: 169

    51wagon
    Member
    from northwoods


    Andy,

    Thanks for the information.

    51wagon
     

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