Uploaded with ImageShack.us I'm trying to remove the horn ring on my 47 Super Deluxe. I have to install a new loom, and I want to replace the insulators and foam ring inside the wheel. I will also replace the horn wire while I'm in there. I have the books, and I've read them. my instructions are to "push down on the ring while turning counter clockwise, and the ring will lift out." I've looked at wheels without the ring in place, and this looks like how it should work, but when I push down, I'm not getting any cam action on the ring. I'm afraid to get too physical with the ring, I don't want to break it. Is there something you guys know that I'm not seeing here? The foam is totally gone, so I'm going to have to restore the wheel. Besides, it's just one more piddly little thing that keeps my car from being fun. Thanks, guys! Mike
That's what I've been trying to do! OK, so there shouldn't be anything we don't know of keeping that ring from camming back on the steering wheel, right? Broke the ring on a 54 Crestliner I had once, I'm a little gun shy. I guess you might call that a pun.... I'm an N R A life member......
They suck to take off for the 1st time...but one you do it once there always easy again. They just get stuck with age. I did mine last week to change out the horn button. Took me 20mins of fighting...I ended up using a rubber mallet and tapping on it while pushing down on the horn trim...it popped right off!
Mike, just shove down on the center horn button with the palm of your hand, not the ring, and turn counter clockwise. There are a couple of spring clips on the horn button that hold pretty good tension to the metal band on the wheel and you have to get them to depress to release the button. Once you get the metal clips on the button down beneath the slots on the steel ring on the wheel, it should turn off pretty easily.
I got it!! Just about ten minutes ago! I'm gruntin' and groanin' and the damn thing just pops off! Now I can replace the horn wire that got cut off some time in the car's life, and rebuild the horn ring so it doesn't go down the road honking. That's what the foam ring (that wasn't there) is for right? "The gold script on your horn button indicates that it is from a '48 model. The horn button for your '47 originally had blue script." I guess it's going to have to be wrong, I'm not paying $60 just to have the correct button! Thanks, guys!! Hope it goes back on OK....
my '47 had the gold centered horn ring(1948), and black faced gauges (1946) so it must have been a true 1947 I thought for sure I was going to break mine the first time I took it off too.
So, the spring, which I don't have, must ride against the plastic horn button. Else the horn would have contact all the time, right? missing the horn spring, the foam ring and the wire down the column, which I'll make new.
They can be a PITA. There are three lugs that prevent the ring from turning until all three are depressed far enough to turn. The secret is to push down evenly so all three lugs evenly spaced around the button are clear allowing it to turn. I'd get the repro spring and horn wire. The wire will have the proper ends to make the horn blow when it grounds. All of the stuff is available repro for peanuts.
I've found that a lot of the time the outer ring gets bent from use and the horn ring contacts the steering wheel before it can be fully depressed. Push in and push CCW hard on the horn ring bar.