Hot Rods Lowering a 1953 Chevy 210 4door

Hey, just got a 1953 Chevy 210 4door, all original 235ci three on the tree. I'm new to old cars but not cars, I have built a few mini trucks. So I just got the 53 and I want to lower it, I just want to put 3 or 4 inch lowering blocks in the the rear and just cut the front springs. The problem I ran into is somebody told me I can't lower it that way because of the closed rear. They said that if lowered it will push the drive shaft into the trans and blow out the trans case. What should I do about that? Also how would I lower the front with the king pins? Any help is appreciated. Thanks Dom

 

Plenty of guys (including me) run lowering blocks on their 49-54 Chevy with the closed driveline. Chevs of the 40s has narrow blocks that work great on our cars.

Good luck

Chris

 

1.75" wide x 4" tall steel can be scrounged on the cheap, you'll need longer square u-bolts and use a grade 8 allen head screw for a locating pin.

(auto parts or trailer supply)

cutting 1 1/2 coils up front will get you 2-3", you do not want to cut too much. It rides awful and wears out parts. Spring rate increases as you cut. rear shocks can be 55-57, easy to look up, and lower fronts dig into a monroe catalog. I posted the number once upon a time. I believe they were listed as RV shocks, winnebago or such.

Or you can bolt in a jag front end and get s****ing low. If I can do it, anyone can.

 

I almost forgot, go do an intro n00b!

 

you don't want to run a torque tube rearend "uphill" as the gear lube will slowly leak out past the pinion bearings....

You also don't want to use too much block, as you should really have about 3" of travel to be really driveable, and you don't want to be dragging anything should you blow a tire.

 

I just finished the front of mine today. 3" blocks from chevsofthe40s.com for the back. 2 coils cut out of the front. So far so good.

 

A 3 inch block is about all you want to do in the back. Any more and the center section will hit the trunk pan. Ran 3 inch blocks under my 53 for a few years with no problems. As for the front.... Cutting the coils is ok but the ride is awful. I used Fatman dropped uprights and Jamco lowering springs. Rode real nice.

 

I picked up a pair of Fatman droped uprights and steering arms for $250. It brought the front end down 2.5 in. I'd like to go another 1-1.5 in. In the back I put in a set of 3 in. blocks I made up from some square tubing. Blocks any higher is going to put you way below the scrub line. With 3 in. blocks the driveshaft is pretty close to the tunnel, I think I could get away with another inch but any more I think would be pushing it. Pics of my ride height here:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=719970

The cheapest correct way to lower the front is with some dropped coil springs. Jamco has a sale going on right now, everything 15% off with code: ENDSUM15, decent deal. I've also heard good things about Coil Spring Specialties.

 

ive lowered two with 3 inch blocks and cut coils, its perfectly fine no problems at all, once you lower it cut your rear bump stops in half for a softer ride

 

Thanks! i just got the materials to make the 3in blocks for the back today, i just have to find a place to make me some u bolts. how should i go about lowering the front? what do i have to do with the kingpin? should i just take the spring out and cut it and put it back in? will i need spring compressors to get them out? Thanks for all the help ill post pics when i finish it!!!!

 

You don't have to do anything with the kingpins.

The upright is connected to the lower control arm with a large bolt which provides the pivot point, unlike spindles which use ball joints. I think its easier and safer to use a long piece of all thread to release your spring.

I pulled and rebuilt my front end, that's how I went about it.

Check out this thread, he has plenty of pics.

 

the front is simple as can be. put the front on jack stands, high enough to have room to lower the bottom a arm, take off the bottom nut that holds the shock in, put a jack under the a arm, unbolt the a arm from the spindle, slowly lower the jack and the spring comes right out. i usually cut 2 coils off

 

also for the back take out the two small leafs while your add it to lower a little bit more

 

Besides all the good tips everyone is giving, don't neglect your shocks. Get new ones. Even Gabriel air shocks for the back? Had a 54 4dr about 13 yrs ago and it rode like dook ****er with old shocks. But I went super low.. left 3 leafs in the back with 3" maybe 4" blocks don't remember and cut 2 coils. Also took out the bump stops and "opened" the trunk pan right up. And no prob drivin. Loud and low is cool to me

 

Three in should work good

 

Ok so i successfully lowered the rear 3in using blocks. Now onto the front, Kingofknights said to unbolt bottom shock bolt and then unbolt the a arm from the spindle. sounds easy enough, but im unsure how to go about because there is a ball joint in it. the top bolt looks easier to get off, if i take that one off will the spring still come out? thanks for all the help

 

I got the bottom a arm nut off, but how do i get the bolt out with the grease fitting on it out?

 

take the bolts out of the back of the lower a arm. 4 per side. it is easy that way to lower a arm. put the other back on . get a manual for the car . will answer alot of questions for you.

 

I lowered mine about 5" front and rear fairly cheap. Step the front arms, plenty of threads on this, and cut 2 coils off the front springs. The rear I used 3" blocks and removed a leaf. The springs being as old as the are have de-arched themselves. I did modify the lowers in the front to accept a different shock. The rear needs to be notched, even with the 3" blocks, if you use the old springs. As far as cheap; the only real cost was the blocks, about $80 with shipping. The front cost a couple hours and a few grinding blades. I don't remember what the shocks cost, but I did spend a little bit on them; sence-a-tracs for a mid 80s' monte carlo front and rear. I did buy new shackles and bushings for the rear springs just because mine didn't look to good, maybe another $100; this I don't remember. Rides fine, good shocks are a must for ride quality; springs would help if there in your budget. Good Luck

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Lots of good info and pics here.
http://jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=644132

 

Looks good man!

 

just got done cutting the front springs, 2 coils off and it sits perfect now. thanks for all the great info everybody. and yo deeddude your bel air looks dope.

 

pics , we need pics.

 

on 1949-1952 fords you can by a kit that lowers the lower spring mount down 1 inch that will drop the car around 2 1/2 inches i have did 2 of them it worked out great you still have the sme spring rate and you still have the same stock ride
im going do do the same on my 1949 pontiac they are the same as chevy up front i cut off the ripts and going to weld a plate of steel on them to lower it down so i get the ride
when you cut the spring you get alot stiffer ride out of it

 

the large bolt comes right out, take of the nut and start cranking, its threaded all the way through, be sure to have a jack already in place

 

I have a lowered 1953 150. I am having problems with something bottoming out or hitting in the rear over bumps. It is very loud and doesn't sound too good. I don't know much about cars. I purchased it set up the way it is. It has air ride in the front and what looks to be 3 to 4" blocks in the back. What can I do to help the noise??? Thanks. I'm very new to this

 

its probably bottoming out on the rubber bump stops or it might not have any at all. if it does you can cut them in half with a die grinder, it will give you a little more travel and a smoother ride

 

It sits just right now!!

 

Just starting this process as well. I'm not ready to bag her just yet but the old 53 150 just sits too high stock. I get the front coil cut and the rear lower blocks. My questions is are you rat heads running 14 or 15 inch wheels? I would like to run a set of old steelies on the old gal and or a set of the cragar 69 deluxe but I'm not sure what size rims would work best. I know the oem's are 15x6.75 or 15x7, but I thinking a set of 14 will add approx an inch drop down closer to the ground.

Any words of wisedom from the rat rod g***er crowd would be much appreciated.

Peace

Long live g***er's and Samcro

 

Don't mean to thread jack but I plan on lowering mine. Will 15x7 wheels fit?