My buddy and I are working on a 28 sedan and it has a frame already set up for a 302 with a AOD and we got the 302 built and was in the process of putting it in and I noticed as soon as we sat it in that it wasn't gonna work with the water pump and harmonic balancer that were on it. We have been told use an early Ford 302 water pump and balancer that will give us the clarence we need....but does any HAMBer have a clue what year pump and balancer we are looking for...our motor is a mid 70's 302 thanks Kyle
Send a PM to JeffB2. He'll not only give you the correct advice, but he'll supply you with part numbers. The 302 is a common swap for 54-56 Fords and requires the same clearance solutions. I followed his advice and my swap turned out great.
Snow White in Fresno CA do a 302/351W shorty waterpump conversion too - I have one on my 351C.... www.snowwhiteltd.com/products.html
is your clearance because you are using a multiple belt pulley. I use a single belt pulley on my car. No power steering or a/c
we are gonna have to run a shorty water water pump and i think the balancer will need to be a little closer to the block ause by the time we put a pulley on there (even if its a single belt pulley) it will be right at the cross member and right at the rad thanks "rustyfords" i'll get with him
I did the same thing as Don on the sbf in my 27, I used the Ford Racing short pump. It was very hard to put together all the parts needed because Ford Racing (for some unknown reason) kept selling the pumps but discontinued selling the correct pulleys to make it work. I had to get the water pump from Summit and the timing cover from Jegs because of out of stock situations. I was on my own and first went with some Zoops pulleys that fit but were the wrong ratio and I was spinning the water pump so fast I grenaded 3 of them.......blew the diffuser rings right off the vanes. Then I found a company called Runne Rite who made the pulleys for Ford originally and those solved the problem. You also need the correct timing cover and damper to fit, which adds into the cost. When it was over I had about $1,000 in the parts to make it all work. But I did pick up an inch and a half of precious fan room. Don
could be wrong, but I don't think you are going to have much option on how close the Balancer is to the block.
No Don is right. In fact, as part of the kit you need Ford Racing's 3/8" thick aluminum spacer that goes on the balancer to move the pulley forward. Don This is what the lower pulley looks like with the short water pump. And the one on the water pump. The pulleys you want are the ones on the right, from Runne Rite, not the ones on the left, from Zoops. (All of them are polished aluminum, they just photograph black)
That is why I suggested the Snow White conversion - uses an Opel 1.9 die cast aluminum pump with an adapter and you can specify single or multiple groove pulley and crank pulley and it is conventional rotation with V belt. Here's mine on my non traditional 351C....
In hindsight I wish I had gone with the SnowWhite setup. I built the entire engine with Ford Racing stuff so I thought I was doing the right thing by using their water pump too. It was an expensive lesson. To the original poster, one thing that struck me was where you said you need clearance for the lower pulley to clear the crossmember on your A frame. If the motor is that far forward you will never be able to get enough room for a fan and radiator. Mine is on an A frame and sits probably 2 inches or more behind the crossmember and things are still tight for a nice sized electric fan. You may have to move your motor back a few inches. Don
don your right...he bought the A set already with mounts on the frame and frame boxed and steering box in it...we thought everything was good to go until we sat the motor in and started discovering these things, we tracked down the "rod shop" that built the frame and asked how it was set up and they told us what motor mounts to use and they said that we needed early 60's water pump and balancer and one belt pulley. After mocking up the rad with the motor in after we get the "early 60's" we still wouln't have any room for a fan electric or mechanical Kyle
Cooling Components Inc do a 2700 cfm fan with shroud that is only 2-5/8" deep overall. You need a stout alternator to handle the current draw though. I have done a few space challenging fan installs and most shallow fans are too wimpy to get the job done. This one should do the trick - but keep your hood shut or the self appointed Traditionalist Police will be all over your ass.... www.coolingcomponentsinc.us.com/NewComp/shrouds.html
This is a problem I feared for my 31 that I'm in the process of building. Knowing the ford is a longer motor than a chevy I recessed the fire wall 3 inch. Wish I would have done less now, gave up to much room on the inside, but at this point looks like I should be fine but I don't have a rad purchased for it yet. I have the car mocked up with an 1985 302, but I have a 1967 302 at the machine shop right now thats going in. I guess my point is I'm going with the snow white setup just to make sure I have room. Good luck
check out this thread for more on this problem : http://jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=303600
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