Projects My '26 Roadster / Vintage photo search

Coming from an aircraft background I would say that you have a carb ice problem. had the same problem with a VW that would actually build enough ice around the carb that the throttle would stick. They generate the most ice at partial throttle, IE cruise power and it builds around the fuel nozzle in the carb throat, hence the stuttering. Try making a heated intake air box off the exhaust and the problem should vanish. The running fine after sitting a bit shows the problem as the ice melts off and all is fine until sustained operation. The reason it will run well at full throttle is there is less pressure drop through the intake and the air cooling happens through drop in air pressure.

For information... http://www.aopa.org/asf/publications/SB09.pdf
http://www.acro.co.uk/html/acro_carburettor_icing.htm

Hope this helps.

 

Uncle Max and GMC Bubba also thought the same thing, so I am inclined to agree. I have a few ideas on how to build a hot air intake for this thing...but making it look period will be tricky, but a fun challenge

 

Good luck. Whenever I see your posts I try to catch up with your never ending fun. Danged, I miss my stock 26-T.......!
If they ran like a new Kia everyone would have one!

 

I have seen carb heat on several vintage cars, so it's not that it wasn't done. Wondering if running sides on your hood would help retain some engine heat around the intake? Perhaps a "ram air" tube up to the back side of the radiator would work to provide heat? You can always experiment with designs that look right after you try adding a heated air source and see if it solves the problem. I don't think it is necessary to have extremely hot air, you just need to keep the temperature above the range of ice formation.

 

I like the idea of ram air right off the top section of the radiator. You'd get anti-icing protection AND reduce the need for a fan to boot!

 

UPDATE
Hot Air Intake..

So after the lack-luster drive home form the beach two weeks ago and with some good troubleshooting from many of you....the general consensus was that the intake/carbs were icing up.

I did some adjustments and went out for a test run...sure enough, the carbs were chilly and the manifold was getting a bit frosty. Many suggested a hot air intake pipe off the manifolds or radiator which I liked, so I came up with a design:



The radiator air scoop would have worked, but I really wanted to keep things clean and compact. I think this will do nicely.

Now to get it built.

Stay tuned for more!
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You have a real eye for period style. Are you adapting air cleaners / bonnets from something, or will those be fabbed?

 

I would like to start with an existing pair of matching, period cleaners that fit a Stromberg air horn. Something small like the ones used on the factory V8-60s.....the rest would be fabbed from scratch.

Anybody have a pair of cleaners like that?

 

Looks great Clayton! I'm sure when it's done it will be mistaken for old more often than not.

 

What immediately came to mind was this article (from back when I had a subscription to Hemmings Cl***ic Car). I think those are stock 85hp aircleaners, probably. So if the V8/60 aircleaner is just a scaled down version of that, we're on the same page.

 

That is EXACTLY what I was talking about. I would add a collar of steel tube to each ***embly that would enclose the filter element..tied together with an air-pipe. That would fit into the down pipe that would pick the hot air up off the manifold.

I think the V8-60 version was scaled down a bit, but may have been the exact same ***embly....makes sense to me that Ford would have just used the same one rather then tooling up for a special unit just for the 60's 4 year run.

 

Thanks Andy! That will kind of be the idea here. That is why I really want to start with a period pair.

 

Looks good Clayton. Now all you need is the background story of it being an optional part for the factory experimental high performance model.

 

Or how about the "Alaskan option"? Built for those workhorse Ts that would find themselves traversing up around the Arctic Circle!

 

You can always put a ****erfly in the down pipe to regulate the heat as needed.

 

Clayton, Looks like a good idea to me. It is a very clean and simple but good looking idea. I take it the stove will be metal that you shaped. Need to come up with a early style lettering. I can imagine the following on your stove - Clayton's Carb Heat Stove (gold leaf with red high lights. Make sure it is pattoned (sp ?)

Talk to you more soon.

Dave and Cindy

 

Clayton, Where's an update ? You sure must be busy. That's the kind of "busy" I would love to be doing right now. Kind of hard though as all I can think about is my Darling Cindy. We just talked and she was in pain again. Will be very glad when all this pain is gone.

Dave

 

*UPDATE*
It's time for one....
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Well haven't really made allot of progress, not as much as during the "Pre-Bonneville" build-up.....but I am slowly "finding" my self again and getting back into the grove.

We have all been putting in time in the shops as of late...cleaning, reorganizing and getting ready to put up yet another building. We started off a few weeks ago by pulling down the old sand blasting booth:



It was in this small building that Bill spent 35 years of his working life blasting. The years of building sand piles (burying the bottom 2 feet of the walls), torture from the blasting and exposure to the elements took their toll...





After troy and Chris cut the booth away from the building..



I hooked onto it with a good long chain and the old Kubota tractor and pulled it over...



With the debris cleared and the buildings outer wall repaired, a new inclosed, isolated and finished lunch room will be built in it's place.

I also spent some time messing around with "brightwork" goodies for the roadster.

I got these headlights in trade a while back and am toying with swapping them for the ones currently on the roadster. They are the same size as the originals and are in far nicer shape.

These are from a 1918 Cadillac









Just an idea...

 

I dig those headlights! Why not? Run them and if you decide you don't like them after a while, just swap them back. Easy as pie.

 

That is what I was thinking! The buckets on the these are actually stamped br*** while the others are steel. Originally these lights would have been painted black with nickle plated bezels, but someone decided to strip the paint off, polish them up and paint the bezels gold to make them look br***....probably used on an earlier br*** era car at one time.





The paint however protected the surviving Nickle plate very very well! There are some wear spots on them, but not as bad as my current lights. They also have intact original lenses and those unique reflectors...which have excellently preserved silver plating. Just have to finish striping the gold paint off...paint up the buckets and do some wiring.

 

Great lights, the contours on the bezels add character. Paint the buckets, polish the rims and run them.

 

I must concur. I really liked the bezels, which are stamped to incorporate the Cadillac crest. I think they do have a unique look to them and will look great on the car.

The br*** buckets are really gorgeous and I almost feel bad painting them black....but polishing them would be too much and just wouldn't look right.

...might do some patina on them though..

Well, I guess I know what I'm doing this weekend

 

You could always just leave the buckets bare and unpolished and let them age on their own.

 

They are already aged pretty good, but the raw br*** look just doesn't fit the car. They really should be painted.

The raw br*** look would be fine if it was an older car.

 

OK...Make them black to match the car.

 

Okay then.....maybe I will

....

 

*UPDATE*
"Shock - value"

I have also been messing around with ideas on how to correct the rear shock issues. Back in late July, just pre-Bonneville, I was having issues with the new rear friction shocks hitting the turtle deck subframe and new floor pans. Due to the time crunch, I simply removed them and made the trip without them intending to re-install and Iron them out after out return.

Since then, I have noticed some other issues involving clearance that I didn't plan on....meaning I calculated wrong. While the rear crossmember is no longer hitting the rear differential case it is however, hitting the rear shock axle mount plates...




...and has damaged the right hand side plate badly. This means that my measurements weren't quite right. This was however it shake down test so I knew some things would need correcting...so I don't feel too bad

On inspection of the plates, I have found that they are just too close to the crossmember when the frame is at it's downward most point of travel. I also found that even if the friction shocks were altered, they would still pose interference issues with the body. Relocating them on the car would require far too much work...such as removing the body and a possible complete (or at least a partial) redesign of the rear suspension. This is something I REALLY don't want to do.

In that regard, I have played around with a few alternatives if the rear friction shocks must be eliminated. One idea (that I personally like) is replacing them with a set of modern Gas Tube Shocks.

Now...before you all give me "The Look" for saying such blasphemy...hear me out

Hydraulic Shock absorbers have been around since the first decade of the automobile. I have seen several types of Hydraulic, spring and air shocks in a tube/plunger/piston style resembling and function similar to our present day tube shocks on many cars....much like these:



Gas and Hydraulic tube shocks are a period thing on many vintage hot rods....but are much more of a 40's and 50's thing. This I know.

The function is desired, but the look just isn't right for my car.....so how about re-dressing a set to look like one of these old timers?





Sleeving a modern KYB style gas tube shock in br***, leather and some period hardware would have the right look and get the job done.

Thoughts anyone?
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Clayton, not meaning to derail the thread, but, what's the material of your top? I'd like to get the same stuff for my roadster and touring.

 

No apologies necessary my friend!

We used a good waterproof canvas (used for boat tops) on my car. I don't remember the specific brand name, but I will check.

Really, any good waterproof canvas for umbrellas, awnings or boat tops will work.

 

Hey Clayton, whatever you do to the new headlights, it'll come out right! they're another tip of cream on it all! your car is just the best T for me.. always a pleasure to see your details, wonderful!


Greets, Carsten