WWW.BOLINGBROTHERS.COM I bought the ch***is from Derrek at Boling Brothers and had amazing service and quick delivery!! Im am really happy with their product. Ill post some pics when the rear ch***is is complete.
Thanks for the link, 1st bit of positive stuff relating to my questions even though it is for a model A instead of T, but still basically the same principle. Especially the "Choosing a Profile " section. I hate boy scouts who try to make me cross the road when I dont need too. FRAMES MODEL-A Our frames are available in four different profiles to give your hot rod the stance you want. From a low frame with a 5″ front sweep and a 12″ rear Z, to a more traditional style frame with no front sweep and a modest 6″ rear Z, and everything in between. We stretch our frames just a few inches to accommodate your engine, without having to recess your firewall. All of our frames are TIG welded in a jig, and have internal gussets for added strength. The frames feature new Model A front frame horns, new 32 Ford front crossmember, and tapered front frame rails like the original “A” frame. We can also fabricate frames for various other hot rod applications. We also offer complete ch***is! Choosing a profile is the first step to determine which ch***is is best for you. Here is a list of our most commom profiles; 0-6 frame, has no front sweep and a 6″ rear Z, great for unchanneled/highboy traditional styled hotrods 2-8 frame, 2″ front sweep and a 8″ rear Z, our most popular frame and great for channeled and chopped hotrods, but also works well with unchanneled/highboys too 4-10 frame, 4″ front sweep and a 10″ rear Z, for those that want a low channeled hotrod but don’t want it too radical 5-12 frame, 5″ front sweep and a 12″ rear Z, our lowest ‘A’ ch***is that gets your hotrod low, but not too low to drive and have fun
I built my own new steel 2x4 frame using speedway brackets and suspension mounts. If you build it yourself you can design it the way you want.I cut my firewall out and reversed it for engine clearance to keep the engine back as far as possible and still have the cool old firewall. I don't care what the naysayers say ,Speedway has a lot of good parts you will need. Go for it!
Go to Wescotts website at this address and there is a very nice PDF of the frame...http://www.wescottsauto.com/Tech/FrameDiagram1926-27.pdf
After a week of looking at every frame out there, I have noticed several things about the T Frames I don't like. I agree the A Frame looks way better, and am looking at going that route. My question is though, why does everyone go with the same style of T frame, with the round front tube and a spring perch attached to it sticking the frontend out 4 inches? I don't really understand that. OEM A and T frames use a crossmember and the spring is bolted up inside it. A frames also have another 10" of frame in front of the crossmemeber. I understand you get a better look at the frontend and you can use a suicide style setup, but is there really a purpose there or is it just a fad everyone is doing?
As far as I know, registering a t-body on a fabricated frame in BC is a non-starter at this point in time. The only way to do it is "obtain" a model T reg, and do it that way. And I am presently facing the same situation, so if anyone has better BC SPECIFIC info, I'd like to hear it.
Falcongeorge, I do not know BC laws, but what a lot of people are doing is buying a frame with good numbers. Building the front section out of the early frame that has numbers and then building the rest of new the frame out rectangular tubing.
The main purpose behind a suicide perch or "bulldog perch" (as I've heard them called on occasion) was to get the car down low. It kind of came about during the early sixties with the "T" bucket explosion that came about in '61 or so. Prior to that about the only place you would see that was dragsters or roundy round cars like sprints. It's definitely form over function, but if I was building a "T" coupe for me it's how I would set the front end up. Going with the crossmember over the axle can look good too, but it also makes room to fit a radiator a little bit more premium as well. When you first started this thread, I completely neglected to ask what you saw for your car. There are a few ways to do these, ya know? A lot of folks have referenced the Wescott diagrams, which if you building a full fendered, stock appearing car is a great way to go. But if you going fenderless, channeled and hot roddy, then your back to fabbing somehting to suit. Best to kinda look a bit and get some idea of what you want stuff to look like, then post a pict and we out here in H.A.M.B. land can kinda point you in the right dirrection as far how to get there.
Build a Bleed sweep style frame. I don't think Bob is still building them, but if you do a search, there must be some info on it. They work out real well....worth you checking them out.
Here are my build threads from here. Maybe they'll help. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=694680 http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=266975
Building a frame allows you to set the ride height and hood length. A couple of comments support the model a frame modified, one suggested a sweep frame and typical t bucket frames have been suggested. The original poster said he did not want the front wheels way out in front of the radiator which you get with a typical suicide mount. With a Model a frame with the stock front cross member the axle is directly under the radiator, with the stock cross member you are limited as to how low you can go. The car in my avatar runs what i call a reverse suicide perch. This brings the wheels back similar to a stock cross member. It does limit your radiator height. Just something else to consider if you build your own frame. The second picture shows the cross member, the plate between the grill shell and the crank pulley.
Not 100% true. There were a little over 957,000 1927 Model T's produced, about half were actually produced during the calendar year 1927 - the 1927 Model year began in August 1926. Production of the Model T ceased on May 26, 1927.
I looked through the posts and unless I missed it didn't see where anybody siggested the use of a '32 frame. That's what I used, well actually '32 frame rails and then built the back half from scratch and used a '32 front crossmember. Just kind of depends on what you are after for the finished product. if you click on the photo it'll take you to my webshots page, more photos are there. Good luck with your project!
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