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Front & rear A/C? How do you do it???

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Fordor Ron, Sep 19, 2012.

  1. Ok, suppose a guy had an evaporator unit under the seat in his 32 Ford Sedan and wanted to run a small under the dash unit as well. How could you hook them together and make it work?

    Thanks in advance...

    -Ron
     
  2. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,985

    squirrel
    Member

    T the lines that go to the existing evaporator, and add an evaporator/blower to it, you also need another expansion valve at the new evaporator.
     
  3. Thanks Squirrel.

    So basically I would just be tying the underdash unit into the floor unit with a T connection and expansion valve? Since the unit already has a blower and everything in it right?
     
  4. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,985

    squirrel
    Member

    The new evaporator unit should have an expansion valve in it already, you just T the two hoses to the new evaporator, and it should work. That's how I put rear air in my 66 suburban years ago, and how the newer ones that come with dual air are built.
     
  5. Killer... Sounds like it should be fairly simple.

    Summers are brutal in Austin and my little boy has to be in a booster seat to ride so I want overkill A/C.

    Anyone have any pics of their set up?
     
  6. stillrunners
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 10,591

    stillrunners
    Member
    from dallas

    if I could dig out my late 60's Imperial stuff.....some came with the optional trunk A/C unit - which is way smaller than the late 50's trunk air unit in those early Mopars.....and the late 60's T'ed in with about the same size fittings under the hood - 11/16 or 3/4 - that ran with the front unit...

    late 60's Cad's had a nice optional trunk unit two...
     
  7. CodeMonkey
    Joined: Sep 13, 2012
    Posts: 94

    CodeMonkey
    Member
    from Moline IL

    You should consider some method to drain what condenses on the evaporator under the seat - I'd hate to see you have to patch the floor pan because the water had no place to go. Back when I bought my OT '97 Suburban new, the rear evaporator drain hose was not attached when it left the factory - and it ruined the carpet and pad (not to mention it smelling really bad).

    If you're planning on separate controls for the fans, you might also want have the rear fan operate on low whenever the AC is on. That will prevent your underseat evaporator from icing over.

    Not sure what the humidity is like in Austin, but if it's anything like it is in western Illinois, that's what I would do.

    Don
     
  8. Good info.

    I ran the drains down through the floor so I think I'm good there...

     
  9. johnod
    Joined: Aug 18, 2009
    Posts: 804

    johnod
    Member

    I have no idea what the answer is , but is an average compressor able to run 2 evaps?
     
  10. 38Chevy454
    Joined: Oct 19, 2001
    Posts: 6,791

    38Chevy454
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Yes it is basically just adding the second evap and teeing into the lines. One item to consider though, is that your compressor and condenser (in front of radiator) only have so much capacity to make hot vapor/liquid and then cool that liquid in the condenser. Once you hit that limit, it will not make any more "cold". So especially at idle it may have the outlet air temp become a bit warmer. Once moving you should have enough rpms and airflow on the condenser to have sufficient capacity.
     
  11. RICH B
    Joined: Feb 7, 2007
    Posts: 5,979

    RICH B
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    If I remember right, we added a solenoid valve after the tee to the aux evaporator. The valve was controlled by the rear A/C off/on switch and thermostat.
     
  12. 59 brook
    Joined: Jun 12, 2005
    Posts: 1,016

    59 brook
    Member

    i recently installed a 2nd a/c unit in my wagon .i just used an underdash unit ,tee'd the lines, hooked up power and we can store meat practically
     
  13. Any pic's?

     

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