Help me build a low truck that can tow.

The existing "hitch" is a ball that sits about 30" off the ground. I wouldn't hesitate to pull 6000lbs with it, but I'm not sure how much tongue weight I would want to test it with.

Regardless, no boat trailer is going to be able to sit that high so it will need a receiver fabricated no matter what.

 

That's not really accurate. I know of more than a few one-ton trucks that are bagged and notched that use regular hitches and fifth-wheels. No problems whatsoever, and at least two of them have been on the road for more than a decade.

 

Did you bolt up the C30 front crossmember to the original frame or did you put on the whole front clip?

I may have some questions for you as I have a long dormant 1937 Chevy 1 1/2 ton project with a similar setup that I hope to get started on again.

 

I netted almost a 6" drop with Sid's 4" axle & 2 leafs removed.

http://www.droppedaxles.com/TECH_ARTICLES.html

 

I do have a 1948 3800 Series. Flat bed with DRW.

I can't tell what you are trying to say --- will it not pull 6,000lbs?

 

There's nothing wrong with a working truck standing proud. Yes, low is cool, but it's a lot of work and expense, and what is to be gained in your case? Won't help towing that boat. Try it out now and see what it does.

Devin

 

all these conflicting ideas and math are giving me a headache

sell the boat!

buy a lowrider

 

Why not just use the f-250?

It would seem that all that needs to be done is to figure out how to fasten a receiver type hitch to the frame---either by welding or bolting and use a drop reciever tongue, inverted of course. An ATV could tow 6000lbs just one mile.

Is the mile on a public road?

 

Really it's not pulling, it's stopping. You could go to half ton suspension and be fine pulling the trailer, if you can turn around and put big truck brakes back on it. 6000 isn't a lot; one of my half ton Suburbans the guy used to pull a slightly bigger boat. He got around the half-ton brakes with trailer brakes.

 

I would just put the cab on a 67 to 72 1/2 ton chevy pickup chassis with the trailing arm rear suspension /bag it or drop spindle it toss in a small block and t400 trans
build up a step side bed
http://www.azproperformance.com/Porterbuilt-63-72-Stage-2-Rear-Basic-Kit.html

 

Take your time, ask around.... I've met plenty of Bullshit Hacks "that do it for a living" so that in itself doesn't really mean shit to anyone but the Hacks banker. (but then again I don't spend time with too many people who pat themselves on the back and tell me how great they are...)

 

Best advice in this whole thread.

A properly designed and setup bag job will be able to tow no problem. I have a fellow club member in my local chapter who has done several duallys that see regular towing duties, including his body dropped Chevy dually.

That said, I have seen some hack jobs literally break in half while towing little more than a utility trailer.

 

I'm chiming in because I have a slightly similar situation that I am attacking this winter that I would say is how I would attack your problem.

1955 F600 2 ton. Geared for pulling. Can't drive on the freeway.

1. Want a 1 ton dually to tow with and look cool. Bought a 1992 F350 dually frame with axles. Going to do a body swap. When I pull the cab off the original frame, going to use that to give me mounting points for the new frame.

2. Was originally going to just swap the axles from the 1 ton to the 55 frame. Not a big deal and might be easier, but I don't like all the extra steel under there and I still will have to hack up the frame and move stuff around to get the correct wheelbase. new frame is close enough to 55 1 ton wheelbase that for my purposes it will be fine for now.

3. As much as people show that it can be done, I also highly suggest not notching your frame and bagging it. Re-arched springs will bring your ride down a lot. The math involved in correctly notching a frame without compromising strength is not very simple. Add to that boxing, weld quality, etc... There is not a whole lot of people I would trust with that kind of work, myself included.

4. If you are going to want to do it yourself, I suggest doing the least amount of screwing around with structural stuff. You want to do your own bodywork and paint, fine. You want to cut up your frame with no or little experience? Stay off paved surfaces and for goodness sake don't put the lives of your loved ones at risk. If you want to hire someone to do it, shop around and be careful. Just because they say they have done hundreds, doesn't mean they did hundreds correctly. Just because they haven't broken yet doesn't mean they have been tested to design capacity (original) and proven to not fail. Would they even have the equipment to test frame strength? Again, not a pickup, but a truck designed to tow 10K+ pounds.

 

Thanks to everyone who responded with helpful advice/experience/ideas/thoughts/tips/solutions and even just acknowledgement of the actual point of this thread.

I can pull this 6,000lbs trailer using just my legs. I don't doubt that the truck can get it going. It's got low gears and big tires. Stopping it from 20-30mph also doesn't seem like such a tall order.

I understand that the axles/suspension are the real questions for this project and I think I've at least got some things to start my research on. I know that I could bolt in a more modern rear axle. Looking at de-arching the rear springs or flipping the axle, adding drop blocks, etc doesn't seem realistic. Looking at the straight frame in the back it doesn't look like there is much room for a drop without some kind of notch.

There's a final option that nobody raised in this thread: sell this truck and find a base that would be more suitable to start this project from.

 

How about you post a picture from the side and have someone photoshop it. Figure out how low is low enough and the figure out a traditional way to achieve it. If you look at a lot of the tow/push vehicles from the early days I don't think you'll see any "laying frame".

Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app

 

Yeah. I think I've probably recalibrated my desires in this regard. I'll post up a photo when I get a chance to take one.

 

Yep talk to a shop that deals in this shit. They'll sell you any "bill of goods".

Hell it ain't their money......... YET!

Besides, why in the hell is there all this off topic shit on here anyway!?!?

 

The fella originally wanted to lay frame, he changed his mind and decided to go a different route, at least that is what he told me. But I would have no way of knowing for sure.

My posts got deleted for drama, it doesn't really matter other than the original advise that I gave him they were drama, I am not afraid to admit it.

Some of the posts remained, as to if they are of value is up to the reader to decide.

 

Who knows what I want at this point. I used to want to be low and tow. There was quite a disagreement about how, what, where and even why you would want to do this (and even if it were POSSIBLE.)

Some people contributed ideas on how I could be low. Or how I could tow.

A lot of others either decided it wasn't possible, wasn't worth the effort, wasn't in-line with their religious beliefs, wouldn't work with their boat/launch/driveway/etc or just wanted to come in and add another digit to their post count.

In the end, I pretty much decided I'd search for solutions outside of this board. Found a lot more unhelpful advice than constructive comments.

Appreciative to those that did want to help/brainstorm/dream, nonetheless.

 

frank,
Some of us got a little heated and it was no fault of yours. Some of us are just hot heads. I think if you sift through the information and take what is reasonable from each post you can help with your solution even if you don't find the entire solution in this thread.

Let me take the time to appologize to you for my part in tearing your thread apart. Drama never helps someone solve a problem.

 

Maybe I am underthinking it, but couldn't you kickup the portion of the frame at both ends of the cab. Something similar to all the bobber truck frames only on a more rational scale.

 

See post 5. Yours will be a little bigger.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=737767&highlight=frame

 

Appreciate it but you did offer some helpful advice, too.... Thanks!

 

Postings probably were edited and/or deleted due to member bashing and disrespect.

IMHO there is no place on the H.A.M.B. for that bullshit and it certainly isn't traditional.

 

CurbFeeler..... You were one of the helpful ones. Mostly. At least it was obvious that you went to some effort to help instead of just coming in and posting about how wrong the guy above you was and then not explaining anything better. I'm new to the HAMB and it's an intimidating place. Sorry if I stepped on any dicks.

Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app

 

I know that most tractor trailer rigs use air-bags in the rear and on the trailer so the driver/payload doesn't get beat up. So if you get the right ones, they'll handle anything you throw at them. Ride-tech is a reputable vendor and they make a rear setup for HD pick-ups. I'm looking hard for my next project and it'll be similar to yours. I plan on using a Chevy/GMC 3500 front suspension with drop spindles and bags. This will give the nice addition of discs up front. I plan on building a full tube frame, but you could always cut the frame from a donor at the firewall. If you want it to sit really low, I don't see anyway around a notch. If done right, it'll hold up, so make sure your welding is top notch or farm it out. I have an F-150 with a 4"-6" static drop and a notch. It has over 150k on the drop and I've never had any issues(did have to replace the upper ball joints, maintenance). There are a lot of great shops out there that can do this right, and ones that do it bad. I've seen both. Do this right and you'll get the stance you want, haul what you need to, and it'll ride better than any stock truck out there. Do it wrong, and you'll end up with more headaches than you can imagine.

 

this is similar to a project I am going to do. its a 64 dodge d500, poly 318, 5 speed, 2 speed rear end.
I plan on lowering it. running boards will be ~6" of the ground. first by putting the rear end over the springs, that will gain almost 6-10" depending on details. Front will get 1/4 ellipticals built from the orig front components. Plan to be able to haul a gooseneck car hauler locally with it. (for show/swap meet duty, as a conversation starter) go to a 440 auto (possibly push button) retain the 2 speed, and upgrade to super singles on the rear. target gvw ~10-12k

super singles will drop my rpm, and the bb has the torque to overcome the raised gearing.

using an old school traditional build, on a vehicle that was never done like that (yet).

good luck on yours

dr

 

additionally, if the rear suspension is a 4 link, or 1/4 elliptical, the rear aft of notched carries no real load after the vertical support. you could cut the whole rear off if you wanted, especially if you went gooseneck on your boat trailer

dr