Phoenix HAMBers, HELP!

Re-Intro: I first discovered the HAMB madness around the age 15, when I had a '60 Cadillac project. Since, I have sold it and bought my brother (longroof64)'s Impala Wagon, which I drive daily to high school... I've posted about this car before, the engine was rebuilt (not very well) somewhere around 10 years ago, and since then most of the miles put on it were by my brother or me. The main concern is the plugs are covered in oil and it's burning around half a quart a week. I'm looking to have it rebuilt again, but as I don't have the time or experience I'm hoping someone can point me towards a shop with older-car experience. Any ideas?

Another question; is there any way to keep the motor stock(ish) and still being able to handle the Arizona heat? After driving the fifteen minutes from my school home, the engine is sputtering and knocking pretty badly... which I'm pretty sure is related most to overheating... I've been told that an electric fan is what I need, but does that work in unison with a mechanical fan or replace it? I'd much rather keep the mechanical simply to stay original, but is an electric fan my only choice for overheating?

...also, with the original 2-speed auto tranny, the car isn't much of a "highway flyer". For now I avoid the highway, assuming that it'll put too much stress on the engine. It hurts to stray from stock, but would I be better off having the motor mated to a 3-speed auto from the same era? What would fit?

Forgive me, as I'm just an employee at the local shop who's coming to the HAMB as a refuge from all the pro-street ideas the guys I work with are throwing at me! Thanks in advance...

 

there are a few shops around who have the experience, however you will hear good and bad about EVERY shop. my favorite is Morrison on the west side, or Wilkies on the East.
You didnt say what motor is in the car, but if it is stock, and everything else is in good condition it should not over heat. an electric fan could help but a good clutch fan usually works the best.
Just going to a 3 speed auto wont change the final drive, however coupled with different rear gears it could help. an over drive trans would be what you are looking for.

 

My advise to you is PLAN PLAN PLAN , in that order !
Figure out before you plop a bunch a dough into this ride 1, is this close to your dream car and are you willing to do the mods it takes / or are you just try'n to make it a better ride for now ?2, what do you want style and ride wise ? Big block ? all stock rebuild ? hopped up small block ? hyw crusier drag car . all around rod wagon ?What is your budget ? By this i do not mean what you have in your pocket right now , what are you willing to put into the car .I can tell you 4-5 machine shops but first get your building direction clear .I will tell you ask 11 people and you may just get 11 diff answers for how should i build my car ?. You have a ton of motor upgrade choices on that car , 327 / 350/ 455/ 454 /396 / 502 / caddy / etc etc .Anyway thats where i would start first what do you want for looks ? wheels ? tires ? rear end ? gearing ? motor ?trans ? interior? etc etc get a clear idea .If not you maybe shovelin money at a project and get discouraged .

 

The motor is the stock 327, and I'm looking for a stock rebuild. The car is already lowered (springs), with a half-assed paint job and some ugly pinstriping. The style I'm going for is low and clean. It'll need to be repainted, maybe an original body color with a 'flake roof. I'm in high school, working at a lube shop, so the money situation is shitty and is heading to worse as I go into college, but for now I have the parent's helping me out. This does not mean they'll be paying for it, but they match my amount for whatever I'm putting into the car. For wheels I'm thinking supremes... as for the transmission I'd like something that could handle the highway (when did overdrive come around?).

 

Here it is, and believe it or not this picture makes it look better than it really is. It has holes where the trim should be and missing some of the rear trim also...

 

Extreme low budget builds are tough as hell to do.

At least your wagon is one of the easier ones to pull off. Engine first, all the rest doesn't mean a thing if it doesnt go or stop. SBC's are pretty cheap and easy to find so it may be better to find a later model with a running engine/trans combo and swap them in and save the 327 for a build later. You will need to change the driveshaft yoke to the new trans.

Say for instance you found a 1992 Chevy truck 350 and 700R4 for $500.00 then you would need to shorten the drive shaft and move the trans mount back. Most of the engine brackets should fit. You may need a new intake to fit those later heads, or buy a harness to make the TBI work. Manifold is cheaper, thats what Ebay and swap meets are for. The next issue is the trans. There are lock-up kits and TV cable kits to fit your carburetor for not a lot of money.

Have your radiator cleaned out, put some new hoses on it and a good mechanical fan and shrould like it had stock, that is if they are missing.

Seriously you could do this whole job for less than a rebuild of the stock engine. And pick up some highway driveability without cracking open the rear end. AND you could do this in a weeks worth of nightime wrenching.

 

Elpolacko - Excellent advice, but thats assuming I know what I'm doing! I've seen the work you've done (dakota front ends, right?) but tearing out an engine and tranny is not something i'm up to. About the cooling, the radiator was just rebuilt, new hoses put on, and the shroud's there... I'm pretty set on trying to make the original motor work, there's tooo many cars out there with newer motors! (but maybe thats for a reason, huh?)

 

Try Clyde Smiths shop was on 19th ave near downtown,If he`s still there He will do you right.Please let me know if you get ahold of him. I haven`t seen him in 18 yrs. Jerry Methane,to Clyde

 

You have to learn somehow. It really isn't that hard to do, the only thing I could think of that may possibly give you trouble would be moving the transmission mount back a bit and reconnecting the shift linkage.

If you decide to swap the engine, I am sure one of us could stop by and take a look at what you have done and maybe help out a bit.

I was just looking at Craigslist and saw a few potential engines but nothing too spectacular. Lemme ask a few people I know and see if I can unearth something neat for you.

 

If you need any help, I'm available on most weekends. I have an engine h0poist if needed and have pulled and installed engines before. Even in a driveway!

Any help you need just holler.

I've had relly good experices with Hawkes radiator in Mesa. Had a custom radiator made for $300. Sized to fit an odd size. One place I can recommend with no misgivings.


jerry

 

Sixocad,
All the advice I've read here is good. The best is from Elpolacko and jerry. I would save the 327 for a later rebuild. If you're going to college you need a good, RELIABLE, set of wheels. Follow El's advice and find a good used 350 SBC and trans and swap it in. This will probably be cheaper than rebuilding. jerry sounds like he is willing to help you learn to do the engine swap. You can learn as you do the work. I did, 40 years ago. I swapped out the short block in my first car. I learned as I went with advice from friends and my Dad. You learn by doing. Yes, you'll make mistakes, BUT, you are learning and your family and friends will keep you from making the BIG mistakes.

If you decide to go the rebuild route, an engine rebuilder in the East Valley is Bailey's on North Country Club in Mesa. Bob has been in the rebuilding business for 30 years. Check him out.

 

Are you sure the car is overheating? What tempurature is your coolant hitting? Your rough running/sputterring problem after 15 minutes may be due to vapor lock rather than engine overheating. Check your fuel lines and be sure they are spaced away from any heat sources (exhaust, block, heads, etc.).

I have a stock '63 Impala, 327and powerglide with over 229000 miles on the untouched engine. Pretty much the same set up that you have. The motor is pretty tired and I get a bit of oil going passed the rings. I use 20/50w, Bardahl "No Smoke" to slow the oil passing the rings and keep the smoke down. I use STP gas treatment to help keep the plugs from fouling. With all this, she still smokes a good bit, but she runs like a top (good acceleration, cruise 75 mph on the highway) and she stays cool even in PHX traffic.

I've been doing this for the last 35000 miles as a "temporary" fix until I rebuild the engine.

 

How you doin, Count me in on any help you might need. Allways willing to lend a hand when it's needed and sometimes when it's not. Sean.

 

Sixocad, I was talking to my bos today and he has a 350/350 out of a running car for sale. Not sure of the year of the motor but I have heard it run and drove it. $350 for the package. just wants to get it out of his yard.

PM me if you are interested and I will get you his number.


jerry