Filler/Glazing alternative to making a filler/resin milkshake?

I have done the "milkshake" in the past with well excellent results. But it has all been on projects that didn't really matter..........

Well this 56 matters. I know body guys who have mixed the filler and resin for years with supposedly no problems. I just can't chance it.

So what filler or glaze can I get that will give me the same smooth finish???

The Bondo and Napa brand fillers just don't cut it on their own, too many pinholes and way to stiff for pulling entire panels with it.

PS, I know there has to be a thread on this so send me to it if you know where it is....... found a ton of filler threads but nothing on the milkshake.

 

i use usc products. go to a bodyshop supply store and they should be able to sell u a smooth type of bondo. i don't ever mix a milkshake u are asking for problems.....bondo might not be flexable or not dry in spots...i know guys that do it and seems to work but for how long....Dave

 

I am at this stage in my build also. For glaze I purchased Evercoats Metal glaze. I may also try U-Pol's dolphin glaze....I believe they both have great reviews

 

I've been using U-Pol Liquid gold. Its a glazing putty that spreads like your "milkshake". It sands super nice, and knock on wood, haven't had a shrinking problem.

 

i suggest evercoat rage gold, or 3M platinum body filler. both spread really smooth with minimal pinholes. no need to add resin with these imo.

 

Yup...i just received my 3rd gallon!

 

All of the above^^^

 

Don't base you purchases on price. If you buy the cheapest stuff you are going to get what you pay for. More expensive fillers/putties have more and better quality resins and will therefore have better flow/spreadability and be easier to sand.

Not saying that you are in this boat but it always kills me when guys buy cheap filler because a good quality gallon is $40 or $50. You are spending thousands on a car and you are going to skimp and use **** product for the sake of a $20-$30 difference

 

QUALITY IS REMEMBERED LONG AFTER PRICE IS FORGOTTEN.-Hogeland

 

Pinholes come from all fillers. It's the guy putting the filler on. I use a metal blade versus those plastic ones. I add some pressure on my first swipe and not just one p***. Squeeze it on. Also not blowing it off clean will trap dust on your next coat. It's got to be clean. Same with the glaze. Putting it on lightly will trap little air pockets in the filler in both filler and glaze. Even then you may still get some.

 

Also, ask for slick sand. Strip it, epoxy prime, mud it close, then 2-3 good coats of slicksand or featherfill 2.0. Block to finish, looks great!

 

Rage body filler spreads nice, and little to no pin holes. U-Pol Liquid Gold is a nice glaze. U-Pol Dolphin glaze is real runny, but makes a nice tight spread for covering pinholes. I agree with above comment about going to a autobody supply store, you do get what you pay for.

 

sounds so easy!!

 

This is very true!! That and too much hardener are the two biggest culprits that cause pinholes.

 

Dolphin Glaze, expensive but simply THE BEST for a final glaze. Nothing else i've tried finishes as well and believe me I have tried them all. Always looking for something better. This is it. As stated earlier, blow surface clean and apply a very thin wipe, just to fill scratches and the occasional pin hole. You will be impressed. Use less hardener though, not more.

 

What is the NEON GREEN stuff you see all the big guys (Foose, WCC, etc.) using on tv????

I don't mind paying good money, my problem is where I live. I have to order EVERYTHING to get the good quality stuff.

 

The bright green stuff is Rage Gold. It turns green when you mix in the blue hardener.

Rage Extreme is also a good product to replace your "milkshake".


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You can mix a bit of metal glaze with regular fill for a smoother coat on small finishing issues. It seems to feather in really well that way, especially if you need to recoat a fill. The different hardness levels cause a lot of grief and the mix of the 2 alleviates it. I totally agree on the Slick Sand recomendation. If there's that much "chatter" in the sheet metal it might be the only way to go. It really works at keeping film build and filler levels low.

 

Turned the truck in the pic in 8 months body off with that method. Works for me! Did same method on these and they were but hashed. One tick from the trash.

 

Any of you all used the CLAUSEN products???