I have a few questions I got a "custom" oil pan made for my suspension and also added 2 inch pipin for exhaust from the manifold back to a gl*** pack muffler. I added a qt of oil and my temp gauge was all the way on cold for a day and occasionally sitting in the middle before returning to cold. Now for last day it's all the way on hot and then moves to cold and then to the middle. Is there something that could be causing this? Would the oil pan or exhaust going from 1 3/4 to 2 inch cause gauge to move around? Why is white smoke coming out of breather? Here's a video of breather http://i1246.photobucket.com/albums...D-9E9C-4169AB6A0291-2337-00000292F2687DBA.mp4 Any help would be great I'm trying to learn as much as I can.
the other possibility is a fouled draft tube. Are you taking a lot of short trips where your engine does't get up to proper temp?? If so it could just be condensation, but blow by is usually the likely cause.
got any anti freeze in the oil,could be a blown head gasket or broke ring or worn rings its called blow by, what happens is the crank case gets pressure ized.Do a compression test
If it is a lot of smoke then probably a broken ring. Do a compression test on all cylinders, you will soon know...
OP are you confusing white smoke with blue smoke? White would indicate steam coming out the breather .... a water issue. Does the breather cap have white goo inside it?
No. The exhaust should not cause any more (or less) of the vapor. Nor would a oil pan chage make a difference. It looks like blow by to me, but not too much that i would worry about. Did you change anything else? like remove a pcv valve that used to go to the carb or air filter? It could also be condensation burning out of the oil, ***uming the truck hasn't gotten up to a good temp in the last few trips or days. I would also check the temp gauge sender in a pot of water & a candy thermometer to see about the fluxuating temp gauge. It sounds like your gauge is not working right. If you were driving the truck for any mesurable time or distance the temp gauge were on "Cold" the whole time then it's surely a suspect. And finally ***IF*** the gauge or sender is faulty, and the engine has been running TOO HOT for sometime (sitting in L.A traffic a long time, then getting on the throttle hard)...You very well could have a leak in the head gasket or a warped head. And that could be water from the cooling system, being boiled out of the oil. (compression test would most likely tell you if its leaking or blown) In the mean time keep your cool. don't get in a panic I'd start with * Verifiy the TEMP GAUGE is reading correctly and has a good linear movement, Not sticky or just plain reading wrong. * Do an oil change and see if theres water/ coolant or milky lookin stuff in it/ * Do a compression test (If all's well then...Breath a sigh of relief) * install a pcv valve (to carb) or route that hose to the air cleaner so it can "re-breath" the blow by. It won't hurt the engine any
Get a laser thermometer and "shoot" the engine, the head, and the hoses, see how hot it really is getting. Gives you somewhere to start.
VERY good advice right here. Check it out before we start talking about checking rings/valve guides etc. (AKA tearing the engine apart)
show us whats under the oil fill cap... ---------------------------------------------- dual gauge leak down tester.... and %'s of ah disregard this part
With the modifications to your pan is it possible that you are now splashing oil on a hot spot in your block? Did you allow for the changes in oil capacity after the pan mods ? Pan smaller= oil level higher ?
Is your temp gauge a water temp gauge or an oil temp gauge? False readings are sometimes caused by a bad ground.
my temp guage was doing the same thing, and turned out to be faulty, with less than 500 miles on it. sometimes they do just go out.
If your temp guage is electric don't use Teflon tape on the sensor. The sensor needs a good ground connection where it screws in to work correctly.
aaggie, If it is an electric temp gauge, what do you suggest using to seal the threads of the sender?
I like that permatex thread sealer, comes in the little white tube, it seems to just seal the low parts of the threads and the high parts make enough contact to ground, Teflon tape is for sealing faucets not engines
So the gauge now works. It was in fact a bad connection. It's working perfectly which makes me feel better. As for the white smoke. The shop switched me over to synthetic oil. I was told possibly because its thinner it may be getting past the pistons and burning off... I have Lost a lot of oil but don't seem to have an oil leak so that may be the issue?
Loose the synthetic oil as it does not play well with older engines,especially ones that are a bit tired. Straight 30 or 20-50 your choice of flavors,don't waste money on high mileage or racing oils. Personally I would tell the shop that put that stuff in that they could now pay for replacing it.
Yep, you can almost see it puff with the piston movement. Do a compression test and if you can a leak down test. I'd say that the rigs are pretty suspect though.
It won't mix well with old oil that is in any engine that has been run for some time either. Great in a freshly built engine but not great for a change over with a lot of miles on the engine.
I had white smoke coming out of my breather on my falcon a couple years ago. I changed my pcv valve and the problem went away. I ***ume that it was caused by the pcv being clogged. So, the normal crankcase fumes would build up and the gases could only escape through the breather.
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