At one time, I was doing research to write the definitive article on T5s because these same questions always come up. I've collected some of the info, but not all & I certainly haven't compiled it in any sensible form. But here goes on a few points: Yes they do, but the angle is built into the bellhousing, not the trans. So the Camaro trans, apart from the shifter being in a ****py place for an early Ford, work just fine. .72:1 is the highest OD I'm aware of that's available in a T5 (there's also a .73:1 which ain't much different). This was an option on Camaros, but they also had a .78:1 that was just as common. There are also some Camaros that came with .86:1 The bottom line is, there's no way to know exactly what gear ratio you have simply by application. You must use the transmission tag number against a list. Even similarly equipped cars could have different ratios. You probably have the following gear ratios: 1st=3.76, 2nd=2.18, 3rd=1.41, 4th=1:1, 5th=.72 Whis is one of the best sets of ratios for a flatty, IMHO. The Jeep shifter is in the same location as the S10 shifter (maybe even slightly farther back - the shifter housing is longer, but I've not compared the two side-by-side). It is approximately 7" further rearward when isntalled than the original Ford shifter. The limiting factor for the T5 shifter placement is the shift rail mechanism. Here's a pic of a Jeep T5 currently on eBay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7986543530&category=6763&ssPageName=WDVW&rd=1 One neat thing about the Jeep (or S10 4WD) T5, is I think it could be easily adapted to a closed driveline. One day, I'll fiddled with one & see if it can happen easily. EDIT - Here is an excellent online source with most of the pertinent info in one place. Most of this is accurate - only some minor discrepancies & they're mainly omissions, not errors. http://www.flatheadv8.org/t5-swap.htm
my machinist showed me a manual with a jeep t-5 that had the shifter mounted where i crudely outlined.the shift lever had a fork at the end.i'll try to get a photocopy and scan it in..
Never say never, but I don't think it's a T5 then. There were several transmissions available in Jeeps - even w/in the same year/model group (wasn't AMC wonderful?). Find out from your machinist what year/model, but it's more likely a T176, NV3550, or an AX5 (depending on year). The T176 is actually an OD 4-speed & the top cover is the one used to convert the Ford Toploaders to a topshift trans. However, if it really does exist, I'd be willing to buy every top cover & shifter I could lay my hands on. Your description of the shifter has me wondering - the T176 shifter has a more typical end (like early Ford) on it...I could see a shifter like that working with the shift rails in the top cover of a T5. In reality, it could be any number of transmissions, but those are my bets. Here's a pic of an AX5 - hard to confuse with a T5, really, but very common in late-model jeeps (85-97): Here's the follow on to the AX5 - NV3550 which I believe is based on a T5-style internal layout & my choice for a forked shifter: Just to add confusion, here's a Jeep T4 (4-speed similar to Ford's SROD): Here's a pic of a T176:
Back to the original question - I've got an early truck 4-speed hogshead (the mini-bellhousing that bolted to the front of the truck ******s) & bought one of Dwight Bond's flat-plate adapters (only because I was too lazy to lay it out & have it machined myself & at $100, it's hard to beat). These are ideal for the early cars because the hogshead has the cross-shaft for the clutch fork/throwout bearing. In the past, these hogsheads could usually be had for the price of carrying them away, but have started to climb in value. This option works for both early & late engines (when used with the mercury/truck factory adapter). The other option for late engines is a fabricated flat-plate aluminum adapter sandwiched between the stamped steel bellhousing. This also allows factory clutch arrangement if installed in original ch***is. The only remaining requirements are a pilot bushing & a sleeve to increase the diameter of the input shaft for the throwout bearing to ride on. Dwight bond has both of these for <$35 shipped. For these prices, it's hard to justify making it yourself or buying it from the bigger companies.
You probably have the following gear ratios: 1st=3.76, 2nd=2.18, 3rd=1.41, 4th=1:1, 5th=.72 Whis is one of the best sets of ratios for a flatty, IMHO. My car leaves like all hell breakin' loose and cruises like my Caprice in 5th. Nuff said.
I agree. The important number is the first gear number. Some of the low power 4cyls had a 4.03 ratio first gear suitable for pulling stumps but not much else. Click here for the ratio options and what they came in. I found my trans but if I was still looking I'd print this page for junkyard and flea market verification. Try to find one with the 3.76 first gear. The S-10 clutch disc hits the flywheel bolts on the flatty. That is why Cornhuskers gets so much for their custom disc. The same page above has a link for using the Vega hub that a local clutch rebuilder could make up probably for less money than Cornhuskers.
Speedway from what I gathered from the tech sells the pilot bushing and sleave seperate from the adapter incase you want to build your own but don't want to mess with those parts.
Well here I go again... Just received my 'blue prints' and ***embly notes from George Greenhough, the flatplate adapter, what a great deal! Fantastic pictures and part numbers for the parts that you will need to purchase. Great guy to work with. My .02, if you have a friend in a machine shop, or capable with accurate layout, this is a breeze to pull off AND gives you the 'I built it' satisfaction. As I have read many threads over the last many months, I would say most of you that are building anything that requires the use of a drill press would be able to pull this off. The large bore through the plate and the facing of the bellhousing casting may be the only things that would cost a couple hours in a machine shop. So I am pumped, now to the garage for preping for surgery.
That's a great start, but bear in mind that's only a partial listing - there were several versions of the T5 & you could get any ratio behind any engine, so sometimes just looking at those charts it's easy to ***ume "If I find one from a V6, I'll be OK" or something like that - such is not always the case. This is a great thread though - lots of useful info - it's in my "subscriptions"
Flathead Jack has the adapter too for $295 + tax. I ordered mine on Monday and it was on my doorstep Wednesday. The adapter takes the stock Ford 3-speed clutch fork ***embly. Included in the kit is the bushing for the throw-out bearing...use your stock flywheel, pressure plate and s-10 clutch disk. so far Im happy with it...have not had a chance to run it...but hey...after what I have read so far...im sold. BTW: i took a Camaro T-5 (with the shifter in the back) and changed out the tailshaft cover and shift plate to move the stick up forward. It was an easy swap! .... Ill be chopping the stick and welding an early "swan style" stick in its place.... 1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th 2.95 1.94 1.34 1.00 .73 My only issue was the speedo gear on the shaft. The Camaro had a mechanical 'plastic' gear and the S-10 was electric...since my speedo cluster is not electric and the (2) dont interchange....I just removed it. A small loss, but if anyone knows of an Electric to mechanical speedo setup...I would be interested. After said and done, I paid.... $200 for trans (from HAMB'er), $50 for tailshaft cover and shift plate, $25 for yoke, $300 for adapter...About $600 total....after said and done.
I contacted Dwight Bond he sells an adaptor plate to put the S-10 trans on a Flathead. He gets $110.00 shipping included. He has pictures, I tried to get one to post here but couldn't Dwight Bond [second_chance@charter.net]
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