Question for Halibrand quick change guys

We pulled the quick change out of the 36 today to make sure that everything was in good shape. When we got it apart we found a large crack through one of the mounting bolt openings. The crack is only on the inside of the case, the outside is fine. I also found a chip missing at the pinion bearing mount. Are these major problems that will need to be fixed, or can I run it as is?

 

It needs to be fixed

 

must be fixed or it will be s****.

 

Thanks, that is what I ***umed but did want to admit to. So what would be the best way of having this fixed. There is a hot rod shop near me that says he can probably weld it up, but is this good enough? I head that the entire housing needs to be heated up to get rid of the impurities before welding. I am thinking that this is more of a job for a machine shop.

 

Since it's aluminum and not magnesium I would have it welded up, grind lightly down in the crack so the weld penetrates beyond the crack, the pinion carrier will break apart if not fixed. A decent welder with aluminum capabilities should have no problem with that.

 

Mike,

Sorry to hear...

 

It needs to be fixed.
Find a welding shop that is familiar with tig welding aluminum.
It is quite likely that the gasket surface will have to be machined flat again. No big deal. Adjust with thicker gaskets.

 

Hi Rusty Rod, the QC I run in mine has several cracks that are in the thru bolt holes and have never had any problems yet, we ran worse looking cases in our midgets for years, that chipped part around the front brg isn't too bad either, just my 2 cent's but I'd run it
"Doc"

 

It is getting very frustrating. Everything that I take apart on this car has a problem. The engine has cracks, the diff has cracks, the transmisssion shifter forks are loose on the shafts... I think that a sane person would just by a Honda

 

This is where they normally crack. Pinion area and across the case bolt through holes. Street driving is very hard on Aluminum "Race Parts" These V8 units were originally designed to be used on the dirt for midgets.

Roads are sometime full of pot holes,a dirt track usually just has a groove where the drivers just seem to fit & ride in nothing like a m***ive dip or the like.

When we retooled for our quickie, we addressed all of these failed areas as well.
I have put much into making sure that the casting is very smooth inside & out so a resonation/harmonic vibration doean't seek out a area in the case that could develop into a fracture. The case itself as well as the cover is quite substantial. We only want the best for out customers.

The case pictured above really sould be completely x-rayed,repaired, and after it has been machined, should warrant you another valued life of service.

 

Thanks Kevin, Do you know anyone in the area that offers this type of service?

 

Try Quick change exchange in santa fe springs.. they should be able to fix it.
Dave

 

Mike,

Kev knows his ****. He doesn't like to toot his own horn, but the Cyclone quick change is the best out there. Hopefully it's not too much to get this fixed, but if it gets up there in price, you might be better off just getting one from Kevin. (he's a HAMB Allience vender BTW...)

Did you say Honda?

 

Ernie Murashige of M&V Automotive-Pasadena Fame works for Bill Swanson (Former owner of the Wayne Horning 34 Ardun Powered Roadster),
He is in Sun Valley near Tuxford, They perform xray'ing on aluminum components and perhaps can help you out here.

Tell em Kev @ Cyclone sent ya, coincedently I grew up directly across the street from Ernie in San Gabe, Gray used to be there all of the time.
The Rolling Rice Bowl II used to be right out my front door.
Yes, he was another influence=lol

 

Don't get frustrated with the cracks. Cracks are sign of cool older nostalgic stuff. I f you are going to thrash on old iron you just have to put up with it. Have the threads holes plug welded retap and put some sort of thread insert in the holes for threads like heli-coils etc. Then loc***e a good set of studs in. That is a really nice looking center section all in all.

 

I would like to race some of your tracks. Hell I've gone through holes that looked like a bomb crater and half the car disapear. I've felt the bump stops on many tracks. It not just like finding a groove and riding in circles.

 

Searching for "Halibrand and Gasket" led me to this thread.

Looking for a part number on the rear cover gasket.

Any and all help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

 

Just get some gasket material and make your own....10 minutes time

 

Thanks for the advice.

I was hoping for a reusable alternative.

 

I reuse my home made gasket

 

You did not use Black RTV?

Has anyone gone that route?

 

While all the experts are standing around here...what do you do with bearings that are slightly loose in the aluminum case, usually with the traditional "repair" of lots of punch marks...?

 

I use just rtv, never had any leakage problems. Bruce, do you mean the rear cover bearings?

 

Quill shaft rear bearings in main case

 

Bruce, if the fit is not to bad, just use bearing set from loc-***e, it works very well for this problem.--TV

 

Been doing that since they came out with RTV.
Before that I used the Permatex that came in a tube.
Be sure to wipe the surfaces down with acetone or laquer thinner before applying the stuff.
Nothing like a torn gasket to ruin your day when you are in a hurry
with a gear change.

 

Punch marks might get you by for one more race program but a sleeve job is inevitable.

 

Permatex Ultra Black is the best.

 

NO HE WOULDN'T!!!
My girl just bought one of those piles of **** and it drives me nuts every time I sit in it! Who in hell would build a car with no key hole in the p***enger door? I don't touch the ****ons to open it 'cause everytime I do it sounds like armagedden going off!!! Too much longer without the Plymouth on the road for my daily and my brain is going to explode. Trust me, don't even think that in jest...

 

Bruce,

Just wanted to clarify;
The bearing that is loose in the case is the lower shaft rear?
If so, I have had the best luck using Loc***e Green. Don't get any in the bearing or it will never turn again!
Don't ask me how I know this.

From another Bruce