Chevy axle Strength

So I was out talking to an old hot rod builder and restorer last night…. you know scrounging for parts . Anyways I was telling him about my 31 olds and how I wanted to keep the front end as original as possible. I've upgraded the brakes to disc thru a kit, and I’m going to get some new leafs made up.... but he went off on how I needed to replace the whole front end! Get a mustang 2 clip etc, couldn’t trust that old axle and I was going to kill somebody! It’s the original components in there for sure I’ll say Chevy/Olds front I beam and spindles, is this going to be a death trap? It looks real solid to me and I think the car actually weighs about 25% less than it did in original trim. How often do people break their front axles? And or Spindles? Should I be concerned?

 

Sounds like he's got his head mixed up.

 

i'm sure they are forged..my first reaction is i wouldn't worry about them. BUT, maybe if you could post some up close pictures of the axle/spindles we could bet a better idea. it looks like you have some big tires on it

 

I would bet money that if you welded a streetrod supply axle and the original together and applied lots of force, the newer axle would deform or break first.
Greatest change will be probably considerably increased braking torque on axle with modern brakes and tires, damped somewhat by the twistability of the crazy double upside down springs. I don't think there is anything at all to worry about, especially in comparison to tthe Chinese castings, forgings, and welds that are the obvious alternative...

 

Chevy and Olds would have used different axles, the Chevy was a light car, the olds was heavy....but either one is probably stronger than the pinto parts.

What exactly do you have?

 

The front axle will be just fine... it's the rear that will have problems.

They are notorious for being weak- even with a stock engine.

If the Olds has the same bolt pattern as Chevrolet, you could use a Toyota 4Runner/pickup rear and it will be just about un-noticeable (but you will have to update the driveline).

 

Some older pics when I was stripping it down.





Maybe not close enough? The rear is out of a 75 Monte Carlo...so its probably good to go, no worries there!

 

I have an olds, yes it was a heavy car, listed as 3000 curb weight! Its on quite a diet now, more like 2200.

 

Usually the failure loadings happen when you are trying to parallel park and a large offset front rim and tire cause unexpected higher loads. Make sure that your steering hardware is sound, and check over shackles and spring bolts and the like.
It'a very reliable design you are running.

 

I don't see any problem with running that axle and suspension. Some of the "experts" forget that those 30's cars were built for a lot rougher roads then we have now and were built stout to survive. Unless you work on the springs to help them work a bit smoother and get the correct shocks they might ride a bit rough by some guys standards and they aren't going to corner like a slot car no matter what tires you hang on them.
From experience the king pins tend to wear out about every 50 K even when you grease them faithfully. That could be a lot of years on a hot rod though. The other thing is you might get a bit stronger in the arms and chest from steering the thing if you don't have a steering box that turns easy. But I doubt seriously that you would ever break that axle even in a crash. Bend it double maybe but not break it.

 

Neat looking axle, definitely different than a Chevy axle from 1931. And I agree that it should be plenty stout. Steering usually isn't a problem if you narrow front tires and a decent sized steering wheel.

 

Step away from the street rod people

Id run the hell out of the cool axle and not give it a second thought ….. except when im kickin back with a cold one admiring it

 

I doubt if it would be an issue. But...You could have it magnafluxed if it will make you sleep any better. I followed your build on your other thread, and I am impressed. That frame makes a Model A look whimpy.
Good Luck.

 

I magnafluxed the axle and knuckles on my 1953 1/2 ton GMC pickup. Both knuckles had DEEP cracks (over 1/8 inch as I recall) originating in the sharp corners machined there by GM. I used a 1/8 inch carbide burr to excavate the cracks. Then I shot peened the area with steel shot to around 0.012 A Almen spex here http://www.everyspec.com/MIL-SPECS/MIL-SPECS-MIL-S/MIL_S_13165C_2266/

 

Interesting, again thanks for the input guys. I feel a lot better. I am running some narrower tires up there, don't have them yet but it looks like 560-15's. It is the original steering box but also the original 17" steering wheel so I figure if my Grandpa could turn it over so can I