rear frame sections cut off, the center part of crossmember will be cut out when new frame rails are welded in
up date pics, I shortened up the original gas tank ten inches, welded in the rear cab mounts from 14 gauge round stock.The universal brake pedal is anything but, good for anything from a ten speed bike to a mercedes and will not fit anything. It may be that I dont know how or were to put it exactly, the pedal rod will have to be bent. I made a shorter rear spreader bar and outside bed mounts that are just mocked up for now. I also got my rearend narrowed up to 50 inches and stuck in there to measure for the bar mounts and found some aluminum rear calipers for it.
You are really doing a great job, obviously I like the fendered trucks so here's another vote to keep going. I'm sure by now you know there isn't anything universal but that's the fun part. As far as steering columns if you are going to use the straight axle the pre-50's ford columns work well.
Brake pedal suggestion IF this is the problem you're having. If the brake pedal is similar to what I used in my Model A build, you may have to make provisions to adjust the "universal" unit to make the pedal swing to be parallel with the chassis centerline. I had a wedge machined out of a hunk of steel to weld to the inside of the boxing plate and used the bolt holes in the pedal assy. to drill and tap the holes for attachment as opposed to welding. It works very well with my car. Previous to that, the brake pedal wouldn't clear the back of the block during normal swing action. I'll also suggest against chopping, but like either way. Just keep up the good work and have fun to get to fun! For seat height and style, play with a piece of plywood to find how you feel best in seating altitude and pedal relations. It will be very important when you hit the road for a long haul. Get a donor forklift seat if you can.
thats kind of what I did with the pedal, I dont know if you can see it in the picture or not, i made a wedge plate at tacked it to the frame for now. I dont know if it will clear the motor ( bellhousing). Having never done this before I spend alot of my time second guessing everything. Will the stock firewall have to be cut to fit a small block chevy in this thing?
I need some help. I'm using the vega steering box and was wanting to know if the rod that goes front the passenger side bat wing mount needs to be horizontalgoing up to the vega box( I know it needs to be horizontal but how horizontal), as horizontal as the rod that goes from steering arm to steering arm? Do I need to get the (engine weight) in the frame and the wheels and tires on it and on the ground first also? Never done this before and would appreciate all the detailed help I could get? Thanks in advance Mark
Yes I know that they are not traditional wheels, they are Mickey Thompson street radials for now. I plan on some cker drag tires later on. I aint really sure what traditional means with these cars and trucks. I'm new to these things and learning as I go. I hope I am not offending anyone with this truck and the questions, if so I really do apologize. I really enjoy looking at all yuns rdes tho. I have a really nice 32 p/u that will be alot more traditional if I can ever figure this one out. Thanks Mark
Will this work properly? The top bars are at a 45 degree from the centerline of the axle ( hub to hub). The bottom bars are not on in the pics but they are 17 inches center hole to center hole parallel to ground at ride height. The top bars are 13 inches long center to center and will be angled down at 7 degrees toward the front. Is the 45 degrees right to hold the rearend in place with know other bars (panhard bar)? I did some searching on here and it seems that some say that you need a panhard, some don't, I have no idea. I could really use some help on this. Thank Mark
Is it to much? It would make it easier and nicer for me if I could move the front top mount bracket about 2 inches farther forwad which would make about 55 degrees off of the centerline of the rearend housing. Thanks Mark
update pics, the hair pins are going to have to be shortened if I mount them through the frame, I may mount them under the frame,whichever way that they will be the most level from the side. The top of the frame after boxing and grinding. I'm really happy about the way the frame is turning out. I still need to grind the bottom and finish the top but I'm working on it as I can roll it outside. (it's messy). Rear brake calipers mounted and the brackets I made welded on the axle. The big change from the last pics is the change in the rearend setup. The triangulated top bars and brackets where cut off again and welded back with different brackets . Basically as a 4 link but the top bars are set in closer than what the bottoms are.
more pics. Just some more frame picsof the previous post. The hair pins that may need to be shortened as I mentioned were because of the front fenders. They won't bolt up unless the hairpins are mounted below the frame. Thanks for all the complements on the truck so far . Mark
More truck pics.I'm trying to get the motor mocked up but am having trouble getting it to fit. The bottom part of the firewall or toe board is not in and I'm sure the motor needs to go back about 4 more inches or so but it appears that that the mounts that weld to the frame will be right where the vega steering box is. The steering box adjustment screw is about 12 and a half inches back from the axle center line. Is that to far or to close? It is also 1 and 1/2 inches down below the frame. The drag link and tie rod are parallel to each other when the wheels are pointed straight ahead and level with each other, really could use some advice this being the first attempt at this. You can see by the harmonic balancer and the lower pulley how much the motor needs to go back. I think maybe the steering box needs to be tilted up in the back, any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Mark
You need to tilt the steering box up in back a little,get the pitman arm level with the centerline of the hair pin at ride height.
Some pics of the rear coilover brackets that I made, the motor mounts are now welded in place and I'm working on the trans mount. A pic of the transmisoin from inside the cab. the distributor will be close but I didn't want to cut the firewall for it.
The steering column is mounted for the time being, still have to emove and paint it. The main thing for me was to have it in a comfortable position with the seat.
Finally I have a roller. I ran the fuel line from the filter forward inside the frame and the front brake lines are run the same way. I like how it will clean up the engine area. Still need to run all the lines from the m/c to thr front and rear tie ins.
The wheels are vintiques steel 15x10, the tires are mickey thompson s/r street radials I don't remember the number but there 30in. tall by 12.5 wide. I wanted them to fill the fender wells out in the back. Eventually I'll probable put some old pie crust drag tires on the back. Thanks Marks
Some update pics, I think, I;ve put about 20 miles on the truck this past weekend, it isw far from done. The doors are on now also. I have to finish up the wiring,guages,and the interior as well as alot of other things. The more I look at it the more stuff I find to do. I t drives and steers alot nicer than what I had expected. Right now it is complete enough to drive so I am going to drive it as much as possible and try to enjoy it before winter. Thanks Mark
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