What are the issues with placing a torque arm underneath the flathead banjo diff ( well not right under) rather than on top. We have a low car with a narrow driveshaft tunnel so are trying to avoid encroaching on what little interior room there is. The tunnel at present could be an arm rest. The split radius rods terminate about the end of the S10 trans but on the outer T bucket type fame.
Putting the torque arm on top makes the largest triangle possble. Putting the arm under would make a pretty shallow triangle unless it was hanging way down.
I agree it would be a smaller triangle, but we are only running a mild flathead with crossplies . If we used heavy wall tube will this help if mounted on the bottom of diff head to forward radius rod mount line.
it would do almost nothing to limit the diff from twisting , which is the torque reaction you are trying to stop. the triangulation, or distance between the torque control arm diff mount and the lower radius arm mounts, is what makes it work.if you can't fit it in, and its a low hp car, dont bother.best bet is to make the radius rod arms and brackets as strong as you can.
There was a conversation about this somewhere. The conclusion was the pinion wants to twist down under acc load, So a torque arm on top is stretching, That is why a 1" tube would suffice. A torque rod on bottom is in compression, So would need to be much more rigid/thicker tubing. Obviously there are engine braking forces etc that would change the direction, But the main use of the torque arm is for forward acceleration. TP
The stock radius rods are fine for a flathead powered car. The ends are forged, they can be heated and bent. Gusset them if you like. I used a set from a 39. You may want to use a 3/8 plate to lower them a couple inches.
If the pinion wanted to move downward, wheel standers would never lift the wheels would they? Doesn't the pinion move in an upward direction, pulling on a top mounted torque rod? Sent from my Droid powered Samsung Galaxy S
Yea, the WHEELS turn downward forcing the pinion up. minor details and it's pretty early in the morning... A bottom mounted torque arm would practically do nothing. It's only in compression/tension if there's another link on the opposing side to triangulate against. Otherwise, it just bends/breaks when the axle rotates. Just use a torque tube and forget it!
Remember the '70s Chevy Monzas? They had what they called a 'torque tube', (actually a stamped steel 'crutch') that ran alongside the driveshaft. It was shaped like an arc along its length; fit snugly alongside the whole length. (hardened, also) One of those could be modified to attach to a wide-spread pattern of 3 side-bell bolts, and run alongside the driveshaft to an attachment alongside the front 'U' joint. It would be no higher than the driveshaft, and triangulation would start at 7" (+/-) at the banjo.
yeah, I just read it and thought, thats not right. Been up since 4am so it's not that early for me I have an open drive banjo. I used it because it has a 3:54 r&p. After buying the uniball, metal for a mount for it, fabbing it, making or buying a torque arm, buying an open drive mainshaft and bearing retainer for my trans and a yoke and a driveshaft/u-joints I could have just bought a 3:54 r&p for a torque tube rear (which I have) and been the same money with less work. Maybe cheaper! Sent from my Droid powered Samsung Galaxy S
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